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Everything posted by mr 580
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Selling for a friend- 1. Cannon Mag 10 Long Arm with short stop. Wiring has been replaced w/sun resistant wire-no plug. Has rear rod holder. No mounting hardware. Tested operates fine including short stop. New lower price $160 2. Cannon Unitroll 6 short arm manual- metal body version w/rear rod holder. Includes metal mounting block. New lower price $100 Located Ashville, NY (near Jamestown). Could possibly arrange for pickup in Buffalo or Rochester
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Lure's-ones that work
mr 580 replied to reillym's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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Sold / Closed Lowrance X135 FF
mr 580 replied to mr 580's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
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Will walleye lures catch salmon,trout
mr 580 replied to Pafisher's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
Get some spoons larger than what you'd generally run on Erie plus some flasher fly combo's. Spool on some flea line and make sure drags are smooth. If you have at least 10lb weights you should be OK as you need to run faster and probably deeper than your accustomed to on Erie. Keep your spread basic to start with fewer rods than you might put out for an Erie spread. Have fun. -
Try the Marinetech website under EZ steer parts- looked like both of the ends(inner or outer) were listed at $26 per end. Hope they can fix you up.
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Never had any issue with my Blood Run orders. I try to keep a supply of common sized line and wire on hand anyway so a extra day or two wait isn't a problem for me. Also covers me if stock gets sold out towards end of season.
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Updated: Ideas on how to mount a trolling motor
mr 580 replied to one fish two fish's topic in This Old Boat
Looks like getting kicker mounted would be pretty complicated. Do you know weight capacity and if swim platform was designed to accept kicker? Looks like composite boards to me so I doubt it was designed for a kicker. Likely you would have to remove one side of platform or the whole platform so you would have room for mount, kicker and steering mechanism to out drive unless you used stand alone steering system for kicker. Might be a project to work on in off season? -
The start of Lake Ontario's King fishery - who was there?
mr 580 replied to ReelPower's topic in Open Lake Discussion
Fished my first ESLO in '79 out of 16' StarCraft bowrider with 2 manual Rivera's. Four of us fished with two guys using the downriggers and other two just flatlining. We had bass tackle and ended up just placing out of the money eventhough we were pretty much clueless about what we were doing. By '85 had a new 23' Wellcraft with four manual Rivera, Loran C and Lowrance paper graph that would go through a roll of paper a day. We would stack those riggers and get as many lures as we could in the water. Fished a lot of evil eyes, northport nailers, chargers and loco's. In the fall off the Genny you'd load up the j plugs and a good day was when you picked up as many as you lost. Remember hearing guys talk about NK's in a bar at Braddock's and how hot the 28's where once I got a few (wrapped in paper). We'd listen to radio all day and that provided lots of entertainment. Lots of good memories from those years. Pretty hard to compare to todays fishing- today's equipment is so much better than the old Penn 209's we had and the electronics are far superior. With Loran C you never knew when signal would fail, GPS is so much more reliable. Huge advantage with down speed and temp on the dash. We thought it was high tech when we got the Mac Jac handheld temp unit and sent that down to find the thermocline. The amount of information available today really helps as all we had in the past was days old info that had varying degrees of BS buildt in. Today with the clearer water and fleas we have to pay more attention to lines and terminal tackle. We use more "junk" lines and spread things out more. it was fun in the old days and it's still fun when a wire dipsey takes off screaming. To me we're pretty fortunate to have the resource at our doorstep. -
Water temp was OK- had some colder water inside from NE blow. Had 68 on top and 64 down 30 in 80fow. Fish came off 5 color and hybrid 80 copper plus 4 colors. Temp wise lake is Ok, but when you're steering around logs and limbs it's not ideal. They sure don't need anymore storms.
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Had a Garelick mount on my last boat. Used it for over 8 years on a 15hp Honda and later with a 9.9 Yamaha without any problems. I used backer plates on transom when mounting and I had a bracket for a ratchet strap so kicker was always secure. Make sure mount is rated for the weight of your motor. Quite a lot of engineering in these mounts so I wouldn't try to make one myself.
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Went on a buddy's boat out of Barcelona this morning. Lake was a mess with debris, high water and lots of dirty water. Tried cleaner water first, but ended up getting fish out of the dirty water in 75 feet. Went 8 for 12 plus a steelhead. Bay Rats and Renoskys took the hits. Have to watch the debris as some big stuff floating around so be careful.
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Probably quickest and easiest way to check is to pull side cover and see if there is a circuit board inside. Fish 307 has on line schematics for all the mag 10 models including early ones. Telescopic booms will fit on all the models so not an exact way to determine age/model. If they still have serial numbers a call to someone like Fish 307 or Screwy Louie's might help with what you need. Good luck with it.
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X2 on Paul's response. Concentrate on getting your riggers and dipsey's in the right water. Rather than stacking on the riggers add a slider for bonus fish. You can run board with snap weight but likely that won't be deep enough for kings at 30 feet. Get your rigger and dipsey program going then worry about getting a productive deep board bite with cores and coppers.
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I don't have any info on calibration of the Lowrance unit, but I do have a working hand held Mac Jac unit that has 100 foot plus cord and operates off 9 volt battery that I'd sell if you can't get yours going. Can send picture if you are interested. I used a hand held for years until I upgraded- held onto the old style for backup.
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I have a set of Mag 10 power supply cords old style that I'd sell for $20. They are from downrigger side but those plugs will fit on either side. Can provide a picture if interested.
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Based on your pictures looks to me like your diver is getting twisted up on deployment. Only way I know that would cause line to your lure to be under pressure. Let diver out slower or under more pressure should eliminate diver twist. On my braid light bites I "thumb" them out and my wire slide divers I use drags to keep even pressure. Use all the time never have line cut into rear of diver. Slow down deployment should cure problem.
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About 10 years ago I had a MinnKota trolling motor that was controlled by 6 1.5 volt batteries and if all the batteries weren't at maximum charge you couldn't use the motor. Pretty much had to put new batteries in every time you wanted to use. I had a engineer friend set it up to run off 12 volt with a voltage converter down to 9 volt for the transmitter. Not sure where he got parts but it wasn't too expensive. Most of it fit in where batteries had been and it was setup with a cigarette lighter plug to pickup the 12 volts so when you weren't using the motor you stowed it away. Worked good and I sold motor to a friend who used it for at least a couple more years. Never caused any problems with boat electrical system.
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Website has info on wire, braid and mono for different lure options. I picked up a laminated copy at a show which I keep on the boat. I also made a rough comparison to dipsey numbers and I mark my slide divers with a magic marker with the dipsey 1 2 3 numbers- helps when I'm running dipsey's low and slide diver high. Would be a lot easier if they had same scale.
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Had trips on Tuesday and Wednesday. Plug bite with purple best. Silver bass were a pest. On Wednesday there was a lot of debris from the storms in 60/65 feet- some of it pretty good sized. Water temps up from where they were. Watch out for the junk as it was both east and west of harbor.
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If you're not already using dipsey's in your spread, I'd add those before you go to copper. For someone starting out braid on dipsey's is more forgiving than wire, but braid has the flea issue. If you do go with wire get dipsey rods, add Twilly tips, and reels with good drags. Have someone familiar with wire setup your rods as wire needs to go on with steady pressure. Have to watch wire for kinks so have to be careful breaking down rods and handling. Don't give up on your lead core setups either. Short segments of lead core have been very productive for me this year. Keep in mind with all these tactics there is a learning curve so stick with it until you are comfortable. Good luck!
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On a small tiller boat having riggers mounted further up the gunnels makes it easier to get at the rods and work the riggers. Also makes rods accessible if a second person is in boat. Boat's seating layout will dictate where you have to mount gear. If riggers come forward just mount other rod holders further forward.
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Sounds like it could be similar to an issue I had a few years ago when I was pulling a 13lb weight on old Mag 10A. Rigger started catching on way up and eventually wouldn't hold either up or down. What I found was motor drive assembly had three plastic pucks that had disintegrated. Not too hard to check-pull cover and the motor assembly. Remove gear and check under gasket material. If you see small white plastic chunks that's the problem. Kind of tough to find those old motors and they were sold as a complete assembly. Those 10A's had a 10lb weight limit so I just figured I'd found the weak link. I'd had the rigger for 25+ years so I upgraded with 20lb weight limit. Good luck with the problem.









