mr 580

With my Trollmaster (wired version) the tiller throttle is connected and starts/operates normally. The Trollmaster linkage is a loop so it doesn’t restrict the stock linkage if it is used. If you are using the throttle control and have the kicker above idle then you could increase speed with tiller however you could not take it back down to idle as the Trollmaster has the linkage pulled up and advanced. The model I have has an idle button which drops kicker back to idle and will also go back to your last setting if pushed again. I have my control on one of my riggers so I can adjust speed or drop it to idle from back of boat to fight or net fish.

Reel Doc suggest you use search feature to look up previous posts on this topic. Has been discussed pretty extensively. All three have been around for a while and have their pros and cons. I have a Trollmaster 2 which in ten seasons I have just replaced one part. Had some issues with it not being waterproof which some silicone and electrical tape fixed. Trollmaster has kits for different motors so they don’t vary models just using specific mounting kit for the motor being used. I Troll is newest of three as to design and does offer some nice features. Check the past posts.

Charter Captains on the western end of Lake Ontario and eastern end of Lake Erie looking for an organization that offers more than the drug testing requirement are invited to look into membership of Eastern Lake Erie Charter Boat Association. For new applications received for 2020 in November and December 2019 there will be no initiation fee. A member benefit page and application for membership are available on ELECBA website which can be accessed directly from the Lake Erie United (LEU) forum. The ELECBA was recently awarded the Presidents Award by New York State Conservation Council for its efforts in promoting fishing and youth outdoor activities. For more info you can PM either “mostly muskies” Capt Larry Jones President or “mr 580” Capt Frank Schoenacker Treasurer on LOU or LEU. Thanks!

Do a search and you’ll find several discussions from 2018. Comes up as a scam. A vendor whose products are listed on their site at a crazy low price had no idea where they would source his product. Their listings and descriptions appeared to be copied from legitimate vendors. If a price is too good to be true, it usually isn’t.

The Luhr Jensen Trolling Speed Indicator has been around for years and measures surface speed with a weight attached to a pendulum. Experienced trollers could judge their speeds by downrigger cable angle or dipsey rod tension just as well as what this device offers. If you have GPS speed on your electronics that is way more accurate than the Luhr Jensen device. Hard to believe they still make these things. My advice save your money and look for a used Fish Hawk, Depth Raider or Moor Subtroll over the winter.

Larry is planning to be at Niagara Fishing Show in January and that would be a good time to chat with him as he is pretty busy chasing musky in the fall. Larry also does back country South American trips for world class fish that are of the “bucket list” variety. Pretty remote trips definitely one of a kind. Good guy to touch base with.

The Masters License testing isn’t that much more than the 6 pack. The Masters is a more versatile license for additional employment as it doesn’t have the six passenger restrictions. Kind of makes sense to get the highest endorsement you can as it is costly to go back after the fact to increase. Good discussion to have with the Training staff you plan to use.

You might try changing the oil and running it in a garbage can full of water. If you have a separate tank put a gallon of gas with an extra dose of Sea Foam in it - might get carb cleaned w/o taking it apart. Run it for awhile and check oil level. Once you find a starting procedure the motor “likes” should be ok. My experience with the little Yamahas is that they are bullet proof and require little maintenance.

I have a 03 9.9 Yamaha and it is hard to start too. Mine doesn’t have a choke knob. What I do is leave my big motor idling in gear then put 9.9 in gear to open/close throttle multiple times then back to neutral to start. It usually will then start 1st pull and I let it run a bit before putting in gear-it tends to not want to take load at first and it might stall. Once it takes load, it runs without an issue for hours. In the fall I run it out of fuel by disconnecting fuel line-since I’ve done that it starts 1st pull in spring again. As far as fuel in oil issue- that sounds like stuck float or needle/seat leak. I’d pull carb and clean. I don’t see excess fuel in oil when I change. I have an 8 hp Yamaha on my other boat and both of them have been good. Never use oil and run forever. I do run non-ethanol fuel and conditioner at all times. With a carb clean and figuring out a start procedure then you should be fine.

I used US Captains Training when I got my license. I took a class room version and I do believe they do more on line training today. As Bandrus states the instructor does a good job of putting the info together for you. Only downside with US Captains is that they are Michigan based so not to many testing places near Western New York. They have some good info on their website as well. When I went through the renewal process a few years ago I used their info to complete my application.

Finding and getting eyes hasn’t been an issue all season. If the weather cooperates and you can get out plenty of fish around. Seems like the later you go the fewer days that it is fishable. With a flexible schedule fine, but planning a week or two in advance you’re likely to be disappointed. Also some the launch’s pull their docks around the 1st of October making access a bit tougher for bigger boats. Most of the walleye guys have their freezers full so tend to see more guys chasing perch this time of year.

Second what “chasen” is saying. If you bring eye up to stop when boat is on ramp the rear of the boat will drop as you pull up ramp and get to level ground which creates that gap in the strap. You have to tighten strap on ramp once boat is on rear bunks or in the lot when you tie down. Steeper ramps make this issue worse. Helps if you don’t drop trailer in as far also. Not a bad idea to check your winch and tie downs after a few miles as boat will move/settle on trailer when brakes are applied.

Believe you have two problems with your setup both of which are safety issues. 1. With a capacity of 3400lbs you are likely overloaded when everything in the boat is added up-boat, motors, fuel, tackle, life jackets, coolers, rod holders, down riggers and electronics. The GAWR of 4474 is trailer load capacity plus the trailer weight so if you weigh trailer you should not go over that. With 4 load range C tires your tires should more than cover the GAWR. 2. Not enough tongue weight which can cause sway which can cause you to loose control. Not an uncommon issue with a trolling boat as many add on’s go on the rear of the boat like kickers and downriggers which move load balance to rear lessening tongue weight. There is some adjustment on boat trailers to correct tongue weight. With problem 1 overload you either remove weight or replace trailer. Seems like somebody put this boat on an under sized trailer at some point so replacing trailer the likely fix. Looks like you travel on Thruway and expressways so you really need a properly sized trailer. Maybe you can find a reasonably priced trailer this fall.

I haven’t had an issue reading my remote- I wear it around my neck so it is close anyway. I haven’t adjusted contrast from factory setting.

Tongue weight is not enough-should be 10 to 15 percent of total weight of trailer and load. Load center needs to move forward by moving post forward, shifting axle back or taking weight off rear of boat. Definite safety issue. Best bet would be to weigh trailer to determine what you need for tongue weight and make sure trailer is not overloaded. Hitch height looks Ok but likely will change when load center comes forward. Tongue should be level or tilted up slightly.