mr 580

X2 on Jann’s Netcraft. They have a good selection of various rod tips and guides so you can match to the rod you are repairing. Sizes vary between mfg and models so best bet is to measure. They do make some “emergency” rod tip kits with several common sizes.

The inflatables I’ve had came with expiration codes on the cartridges. IMO there are advantages to the inflatables, but from strictly a dollars and cents view a regular pfd is less money. There are some pfd’s that are pretty comfortable (and warm in cold weather). In the end matter of personal preference.

When I started using dipseys over 30 years ago, the charts provided by Luhr Jensen were about as accurate as the ones from Slide Diver. Back in those days we were using mono so it was a real trial and error mess. For me I figure out what works for me and how I fish without paying much attention to printed dive curves. A lot of that stuff is just a starting point to apply to your own situation based on all the variables. I also agree with Les that there is a place in the “tool box” for different types/brands of divers based on application without saying one is better than the others. I try to help people with Slide Divers as the learning curve seems steeper with them. I’ve seen quite a few guys give up on them without giving them a chance.

I believe that Slide Diver discontinued the original heavy weight kit with the 2oz and 4 oz several years ago. They now offer what they call the “Ultimate Weight “ Kit which is a 7 oz weight with a new disc bottom for the larger weight and a big ring. This dives pretty close to 2 to 1. I used to like that 4 oz weight and tried to find more of them but couldn’t - even spoke to SD rep. Been using the Ultimate Kit now late season for a few years.

After having to cut a barb off a hook buried in my hand with regular side cutters, I keep a good pair of hook cutters like a Knipex on board. You fish long enough you are going to get a few hooks buried. It is worth being prepared.

For walleyes I always run rings on my SD’s as I like how the rod loads. In August when temp is below 50feet, I will use the heavy weight kit with big ring on my inside divers for more depth. Keep my outsides with std weight and ring, but I usually dial in a 1/2 number on the settings. The light bite SD’s do a good job of releasing with “trash fish” on Erie.

I use a dive rate of between 2 to 2.5 to 1 for SD’s. The charts aren’t accurate at all. Another thing you can do is to convert your SD numerical numbers to match the dipsey numbers for weight movement then use similar numbers you would for a dipsey. SD’s tend to run shallower for me. Hope this helps.

The blank is a common commercial blank and a number of spoon makers have used it including Bay Rats and R&R.

Looks like an R&R paint job and Dave has used those hex blanks in a variety of sizes.

The Lund Pro V uses a double plated bottom and is likely a heavier hull than the Sea Nymph. So if you have been happy with Sea Nymph, the Lund will be a bit more stable and ride better. That being said you won’t be fishing rougher water or more days than what you could with Sea Nymph. Pro V’s trailer and launch well.

Jann’s Netcraft offers a PAC Bay Swivel Roller Tip Guide in multiple sizes that is similar to the Torpedo Guide. I’ve used both and don’t see any difference other than the PAC Bay being about $10 cheaper.

Might be a better idea to plumb into existing main fuel tank. Many tanks already have dual fuel outlets or you can tee into line. This would get you around venting issues from adding another tank-have to really careful with fuel fumes in bilges. Running lines you will also need correct check valves/shut offs. Kickers will pull fuel from 10’ + fuel lines without a problem.

CJC, you should be able to reach Dave at 607-729-5711. Last time I talked to him a few months ago he was busy doing contract painting most of it being blades for salmon spinners for the West Coast.