mr 580

Long shaft is the way to go with kicker. Trollmaster pretty easy install on a 9.9 Yamaha. Trollmaster provides pretty clear instructions-toughest thing was bending the supplied wire that actuates the carb. One other comment I would make is the Trollmaster box is not water proof so it needs to be stored out of the weather. I have a Trollmaster 2 on a Yamaha and it works fine.

Not sure how many riggers you are running, but with multiple rigger setups less blow back means easier turns and fewer tangles. Also easier to get a good release set with less blow back. Need to match your weight to your rigger but heavier is better. Yes, rigger blow back and controlling it is a concern.

Pulling 300 copper or 10 color lead core with an in line is on the marginal side. Better with a board that pulls harder and gives wider spread. I lost an in line with a 10 color when I broke the line popping the release to retrieve a few years ago- board just sank. Backer use 50 lb power pro and for a reel fast retrieve with smooth drag is the way to go. I'm running 50 Daiwa Saltist on 300 copper - huge difference to the Penn 330's on my 10 colors. Speed rules.

Eventhough I have four riggers on my boat, I usually only run three. Seems these days that less is more and less tight rigger spreads and some junk lines put more fish in the boat. I think it's better to have productive rods out than putting the legal limit in the water. How the back of your boat is setup makes a difference too.

Sounds like the cannon riggers have the old small black male female connectors. Those don't interchange with newer Cannon wiring parts. Cannon has used several wiring setups over the years. The newer wires are heavier. Probably makes sense to replace the wires on the riggers and so you are sure the plugs match. Not a big job as I updated two of my riggers. The downriggers should have a circuit breaker buildt in, but it does makes sense to fuse your line in as added protection.

Radio is fine overhead. It's nice to have probe display near GPS so you can compare down speed to SOG on GPS. Nice to see FF and GPS when you are running and fishing. Each boat is different-if you have to dash mount it's not bad to mount FF to the left. I like to keep top of the dash open in front on me. I had enough room in the dash on my current boat to flush mount everything which makes for a very clean install. After you setup a few boats you develop preferences.

The form you use is the Small Vessel Sea Service From. You fill out a form for each boat you are using for your sea service. If it's not your boat then besides your signature, you also need the signature of the person attesting to the experience and the boat owner. You also need to calculate the vessel gross tons for each boat. Don't stress over it- just take your time and fill out the forms. Lots of paperwork to submit with your application-step by step it comes together.

The Walker release needs to attach to your downrigger cable so the white or adjustment end is tilted upwards. Let out the amount of line you want and just clip about one loop of line into the release. Don't wrap multiple loops. If you are not sure pull back on the release to check it. I've used Walkers for years and find them to be very adjustable and forgiving. They'll work on light line and walleyes up to pulling big flashers and meat on kings. Don't be afraid to adjust it and experiment with different settings.

Go with what your probe is telling you for speed. If you are used to setting your speed by angle of cable, you need to learn to trust your probe. If you are getting a side slip on your cables adjust your heading. If you have to crank it up to get your speed get your downspeed where you want it. Use GPS SOG along with your downspeed. The probe will put way more fish in the boat than watching cable angle. I wouldn't want to give up my probe.

With a 16 footer and a 9.9 you are starting where many of us did on smaller waters. With what you have for equipment Hemlock and Honeoye are great places to start and get some experience. If you want to try the Great Lakes, either take a charter (money well spent) or make friends with someone with a boat setup to troll big water. If you think you have a lot of tackle now wait and see what a pro has. Pretty big investment to "get real smart" in this game. Nice to see you have interest, but it's a pretty long learning curve. Many of us have been doing this for 20 or 30 years. Make some friends, keep learning and don't try to jump too far too fast. Reading books is great but time on the water is the best teacher. Good luck with it.

Not sure how the Tyee is setup but my guess would be long shaft. My 1775 Pro V takes a long shaft and has pads on both sides of the transom for mounting a kicker. Hope this helps.

I second the recommendation for conversion. The Digitrol II key pads have not been available for years. I have a couple Digitrol's which were converted to Mag 10's. Cannon used to sell a kit not sure they still do, but most Cannon repair shops should be able to convert one for you. You might be able to find a used key pad, but it probably isn't any better than what you have now as that was the weak point.

Have been running 30LC Saltist on wire dipseys last two seasons- really like them. Planning to go with 50 Saltist on ten color and 400 copper this spring. Like the speed and line pickup- drags are smooth.

Appreciate the information- this is an earlier date. It is important to attend- lots of good info and a chance to support the fishery.

The 115's would probably troll fine and you could alternate so hours were kept the same. The questions I would have is how heavy is the 26' Hewescraft and what should you have for power? I'd also compare weight on transom of two 115's vs a 225 or 250 with a kicker. I fish a 25' Proline with a 225 main and a 9.9 kicker so I'm partial to kickers. Two 115's would probably work good too and that boat might be better suited for twins.

I got my training with US Captain's Training and took the Masters upgrade. A few more questions on the test and you have it. Based on the time and dollars invested, I thought it made sense.

Had success with 1oz and 2 oz dive bombs with short cores pulling small spoons or harness's on Erie this year. Never tried them on mono- if I did I'd start 20' or so from the lure. 1 oz would probably get you down 10'. I haven't used them on Lake O - could get interesting getting them off the line with a good steelie or king going.

Wire will get you deeper and has a different signature. Have to be a little careful handling wire and watch for pig tails. Power Pro or braid is a little more forgiving to use. If you fish a lot, you'll probably want both. I use Power Pro early then switch to my wires when the fish go deeper. Each has their place, but the fun factor goes to wire when a big king takes off.

Another option is to use a Slide Diver instead of the standard dipsey. Run the slide diver on 30lb mono so no problem with fleas. When you're done rod breaks down on the mono. You have to run a short leader so the SD doesn't slide all the way to the fish. I loop my line around reel so diver rests against reel when I'm running or storing rod. Takes a little bit to get used to using them-they do work nice.

I used US Captain's Training for my license and would recommend them. They have classes scheduled in Rochester for October, January and March. They have a nice website with good info as well. Good luck with it.

The Panther steering rod I have on my kicker was adjustable - once you get your proper length you cut the threaded rod and screw on the end. Looks like you might have enough room on the transom - put the kicker on and see if there is enough steering clearance. If you don't have enough use a bracket. I've done both without issue's either way- just need to strap the kicker when you're moving. I use a 9.9 on my 25 - once you use a kicker it's the only way to go. Good luck w/it.

Indian and your manual are correct- Mercury Optimax is a 2 stroke. Take the 4 stroke oil back to West Marine and return it. If you put any of the 4 stroke oil in your reservoir-drain it or pump it out. Sometimes clerks in stores mean well, but just don't have the correct information. Have someone go over your motor who is experinced or at least go over the manual thoroughly. Could save some big bucks.

I run my wire slide divers with the heavy weight option and a ring. I put a short section of 50lb power pro to the wire and then double uni knot 30 ft of 30lb big game. I like the diver to slide on the mono. With the SD's I always use a short leader to keep the diver off the fish. I feel the SD's give me more options than a LJ dipsey.

I'm using the Adventure Marine bracket with a long shaft 9.9 Yamaha on my Pro-Line 25 Walk. Happy with how it sets on outboard/swim platform bracket. Steering ties in to hydraulic steering on my Evinrude. Has plenty of prop in the water. Not sure how it would work with an i/o - little tougher to figure out steering geometry.

I always add beads to both slide divers and slide diver light bites before I tie on good quality ball bearing swivel. I then use leader back to spoon or flasher setup. I put slide diver on 30lb big game mono tied to both Power Pro and wire setups. When I'm running wire I use slide diver heavy weight instead of the standard. I've been running them 3+ years without any issue's.