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Jack

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Posts posted by Jack

  1. Plywood and resin works great and you can buy the resin at Wal-mart in the auto department by the qt.  If you put carpet down you have to use contact cement and I found a small roller works nice to coat the floor and the back of the carpet .

     

    Good Luck !

    JT

  2. I think most will agree once you fish with down temp and speed you won't want to be without it .On lake O every time I turn I have to adjust speed and every time the wind blows down temp changes . All the units today work well and if money isn't an object I would buy the the Fish Hawk . I myself am a weekend warrior and found a Depth Raider refurb on Ebay for $330. This will be my 4th season on the coated cable and see no real sign of wear.(you can reverse ends of the cable to extend it's life ) I have Scotty electric riggers and bought their antenna adapter that works great with the stop beads on the coated cable. Good Luck !!

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  3. I am curious . Why would you run without a thermostat ? Seems like in the Spring and Fall when the Lake water is cold your engine would never warm up to a good running temp and could do more harm then good. Unlike a car with a closed cooling system your are always pumping cold water into the engine . I guess I thought motors ran better when warm . (always ready to learn ) 

  4. Not sure how it compares to the Okuma  Clarion but I bought a Okuma Convector High Speed from Tunas Reel Trouble ($99.) and mounted on a Okuma Classic Pro GLT copper rod and love it (400'copper). What ever reel you  buy I would be sure to get something with 6:1 retrieve . When running copper there is so much line out it's nice to be able to get it in quickly if you need to clear tackle .

     http://stores.tunasreeltroubles.com/brands/OKUMA.html

  5. Hi !

     

     I just received my new Carbontex drag washers for my Tekota 800 Cooper setup. The instructions say you can use them dry or with grease . Was wondering if anybody is using these and what method would be best . (dry or greased )

     

    Thanks and Merry Christmas to All !

  6. I wonder if you could build a couple of boxes 6"wide by 24" long (or longer ) that fit in the corners. You could build them so they could mount to the floor , the splash well and the gunnels. The long side of the box would run parallel and flush to the top of the gunnels . You could add some shelves/storage in the boxes sort of like a book shelve to store tackle and down-rigger weights. You could mount your riggers and rod holders to the top . Mounting them to the floor ,well and gunnel would strengthen the transom /gunnels and leave the back of the boat open for you .

     

    Good Luck !

     

    JT 

  7. I would think you would want to prop the boat so at WOT your RPMs would be the manufacturers recommended   4400-4800. The best way to stay on plane at lower speeds would be Trim Tab's or adding a fin to the outdrive . I added a SE 300 sport hydrofoil to mine , helped with hole shot and staying on plane at lower rpm's . 

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