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Todd in NY

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Posts posted by Todd in NY

  1. Every time I go fishing early in the morning, when the fog is really thick, I get some heavy condensation or fog on the inside of my windshield. I put a fan in my previous boat, and it helped a lot. So I finally picked up a fan for this boat.


    It's a 6" oscillating fan, and I didn't want to block my vision, so I mounted it behind my Helix 10







    I chose to not hardwire this fan, and left the 12v adapter plug on it.

    • Like 1
  2. Today I installed an LED flood light on my bow rail. It's only 5" wide, but it puts out an advertised 26,400 lumens of 6000k cool white light. It comes as a two pack, but I only used one light. They are water proof (IP68), dust proof and shock proof. I also bought a separate rail mount for it.


    Here it is before I trimmed the zip ties. I wanted it mounted just forward of the rail so that there is no glare or reflection from the light on the rail





    I wired it into my rocker switch panel with 16 ga wire and heat shrink connectors



    And now for the brightness test. There is a utility light on behind the boat with a sort of orange glow



    Now with the flood light on



    This light will be useful when I'm docking at night. It shines the light in a 200 degree beam. It was well worth the $35.88 for the pair of lights.

    • Like 1
  3. I would check the antenna connection on the back of the radio. You might fix the problem by removing 6" off the end of the coax cable and putting a new connector on it. Start with the least expensive option first.

  4. I looked at new radios a few years ago. I realized how difficult it would be to sort through the many features and the different brands. I ended up keeping my "old" radio, which is a 2003 year model. I upgraded the antenna instead.

  5. I have a Cobra handheld that I use as a backup radio in my Crestliner Sabre. It's also used as my only radio on my small 16ft boat.


    As mentioned above, I think the mounted radios put out roughly 5 times the power of a handheld.

  6. Thank you. It won't happen this year because I've been putting money into my row boat. I'll need to buy a new steering cable to go along with the autopilot as well. Lowrance recommends a new steering cable, but NOT one of the "No Feedback Steering" cables. 

  7. 12 hours ago, mr 580 said:

    The NAC1 with Precision 9 Simrad version works well for me.  Holds a good line even when it is snotty.  Using with Simrad Go Series for chart plotter.  Precision 9 upgrade worth the extra $$$ IMO over the base Lowrance unit.  Go Series touch screen easy to use.


    What is the Precision 9 Simrad?

  8. 55 minutes ago, Frogger said:

    I can tell you one of the best purchases I’ve made for fishing.

    Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United


    I don't doubt that one bit. I know I won't regret the purchase.

  9. I'm still on the fence about getting the outboard autopilot. I know it will work with my HDS9 Gen3, but there is someone at the helm 99% of the time anyway. But it would come in handy when there's only two people on the boat.

  10. This pic shows the transducer cable running along the bottom on the rear bench seat, secured with screw-in zip ties



    This pic shows the Penn riggers mounted. Each rigger turns forward, then out to the sides 180 degrees for use



    The major work is done, but there are some smaller projects on the horizon. Thanks for following, tight lines!

  11. After bolting the board onto the mounts, I added the white lure/cup holders to the front of the board



    The heading sensor came with about 12ft of wire. Rather than cut the wire shorter, I routed the wire under the deck board and along the rub rail with the 6ga wire. I also re-routed my transducer cable along the front of the rear bench, then along rub rail with the other wire














  12. After removing the board from the Eagle Feet mounts, I had to remove the downrigger bases and other accessories









    I set the old board on top of the new boards, all clamped together, to use the old board as a template for the screw holes in the 2 deck boards



    I assembled the downrigger bases on the new deck boards first, then added the aluminum yard stick, heading sensor, then drilled two holes 10" to the right and left of center, to help hold the 2 boards together in the middle. All larger fasteners are stainless 1/4-20 machine screws with 1" and/or 1.25" fender washers, lock washers and nuts.


    Because I drilled more holes through the deck boards after bolting the rigger bases on, I used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the boards apart, then used a small framing square to push the new shavings out from between the boards



    I then secured the two "middle" bolts. Now it's time to bolt the board back onto the Eagle Feet mounts.

  13. Made a lot of progress today. I made the red (positive) 4ft lead wire, which will go from the circuit breaker to the battery. I crimped these connectors with my 6" bench vice, and WOW, it works much better than my drill press vice! Then heat shrink to finish it off



    I mounted the heading sensor on this old 2x6, but I decided it was long overdue to replace this board with the composite deck boards I bought specifically for this purpose





    This board is held onto the boat by using a brand of clamps called Eagle Feet. They've been on this boat, with this board, since I bought them new in 2016. The 2x6 was some scrap wood I had laying around back then, so it's time is up





    Of course, this means I have to cut the wire connectors on the heading sensor wires because they won't slide through the hole I had to drill in the 2x6 before adding the connectors


  14. I installed a Minn Kota 60 amp circuit breaker, MKR-19, to the transom. I cut the red wire, attached shrink wrap and a copper battery terminal, used my 4" drill press vice to crimp the battery connector, and connected it to the circuit breaker



    Then I messed up and cut the black wire the same length. So I used a blue connector, heat shrink and the drill press vice to add 4ft of black wire, then a battery connector to the end. The battery will be on the starboard side, at the transom


  15. I did some time-consuming tedious work yesterday. I drilled holes just under the rub rail on the port side, every 12", and used #8 screws, flat washers and nylon lock nuts to hold zip ties in place. I zip tied the 6ga wire along the rub rail. It's heavy wire, and spacing the zip ties more than 12" apart (like 24"), the wire sagged too much


  16. Making slow progress due to the weather and my busy work schedule. Today I connected the leads from the trolling motor to the 6 guage wire that will connect to my battery. I think the factory leads are 10ga, but I'm not sure.


    My first attempt at using a 6ga butt end connector almost worked, but the wires pulled out of the connector. I squeezed the wire crimps as tight as I could, but it wasn't good enough





    My 2nd attempt was using a center punch to tap the connector closed. That failed as well.


    My 3rd attempt was with my 4" drill press vise. My bench vise would've been much better, but the wire wouldn't reach that far.


    I put the wire inside the connector, one side at a time. I then taped the wire and connector together, then carefully repeated on the other side





    I then squeezed the whole connector in my vice as tight as I could



    I then slid the 1/2" diameter heat shrink tube over the connector and used my heat gun on low heat to set the heat shrink


    • Like 1
  17. My old paint is literally chipping off in tiny pieces. It won't serve as a good base unless maybe the first coat of paint isn't chipping.

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