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Todd in NY

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Everything posted by Todd in NY

  1. I used stainless #10 screws to attach the stainless steel box to the left rear of the boat, then mounted the pole light base to it. I didn't have time to run the 16ga wire to the rocker switch yet I installed the mounting base for my Helix 10, and ran the 16ga wire to the power junction posts. I also installed a 2D sonar transducer to my trolling motor. I ran the ducer cable through the coiled trolling motor cord, then left the ducer cable loose to see if it gets twisted during use
  2. Over the past 2 weeks I've managed to make a little more progress. I decided to simplify my battery connections by running a 12ga wire from my size 24 battery to a pair of power junction posts under the composite deck boards. The power junction posts will then supply power through 16ga wire to each of the two fish finders, the trolling motor heading sensor, and the 3-gand rocker switch panel. My size 29 battery will only have the trolling motor hooked up to it I made a 3-sided box out of extra composite deck boards to cover the front and sides of the rocker switch panel. I left the back open for the switch, and the bottom open for air flow. It's mounted under the right side of the composite deck boards. It's not wired yet, but one switch will control my navigation lights, one switch will control 2 white LED lights, and the last switch will control 2 red LED lights I got the red and green LED nav lights mounted, but running the wiring to the switch isn't done yet I had to fabricate a 3-sided box to mount my all-around pole light to, so I used some scrap stainless steel I had laying around. It was about 2ft long and was sort of L-shaped. I cut some relief cuts in the "top" so I could bend it with a crescent wrench in my bench vise. Then finish the bends with my dead blow hammer. No matter how I modify or rotate my next pictures, they appear upside down... I used a hacksaw for the first 2 relief cuts, then I switched over to my jigsaw
  3. Thanks for the report and the pics MJP!
  4. That's some good eatin' right there That's a big laker!
  5. Every time I go fishing early in the morning, when the fog is really thick, I get some heavy condensation or fog on the inside of my windshield. I put a fan in my previous boat, and it helped a lot. So I finally picked up a fan for this boat. It's a 6" oscillating fan, and I didn't want to block my vision, so I mounted it behind my Helix 10 I chose to not hardwire this fan, and left the 12v adapter plug on it.
  6. Today I installed an LED flood light on my bow rail. It's only 5" wide, but it puts out an advertised 26,400 lumens of 6000k cool white light. It comes as a two pack, but I only used one light. They are water proof (IP68), dust proof and shock proof. I also bought a separate rail mount for it. Here it is before I trimmed the zip ties. I wanted it mounted just forward of the rail so that there is no glare or reflection from the light on the rail I wired it into my rocker switch panel with 16 ga wire and heat shrink connectors And now for the brightness test. There is a utility light on behind the boat with a sort of orange glow Now with the flood light on This light will be useful when I'm docking at night. It shines the light in a 200 degree beam. It was well worth the $35.88 for the pair of lights.
  7. I would check the antenna connection on the back of the radio. You might fix the problem by removing 6" off the end of the coax cable and putting a new connector on it. Start with the least expensive option first.
  8. I looked at new radios a few years ago. I realized how difficult it would be to sort through the many features and the different brands. I ended up keeping my "old" radio, which is a 2003 year model. I upgraded the antenna instead.
  9. I have a Cobra handheld that I use as a backup radio in my Crestliner Sabre. It's also used as my only radio on my small 16ft boat. As mentioned above, I think the mounted radios put out roughly 5 times the power of a handheld.
  10. l wonder how long it will take the IJC to drop the lake 5 cm.
  11. Don't worry, next year the lake will be 4ft higher. They'll show us...
  12. The IJC won't let that new water level go to waste by keeping the lake level up, even if it's just an inch or two. They see it as an opportunity to increase outflows. We've all come to expect nothing else from the IJC.
  13. Thank you. It won't happen this year because I've been putting money into my row boat. I'll need to buy a new steering cable to go along with the autopilot as well. Lowrance recommends a new steering cable, but NOT one of the "No Feedback Steering" cables.
  14. They did a few years ago when I looked into getting one.
  15. I forgot to mention that my steering is cable steer, not hydraulic.
  16. Thanks for the info! I didn't know Simrad made an autopilot similar to the Lowrance.
  17. What is the Precision 9 Simrad?
  18. I don't doubt that one bit. I know I won't regret the purchase.
  19. I'm still on the fence about getting the outboard autopilot. I know it will work with my HDS9 Gen3, but there is someone at the helm 99% of the time anyway. But it would come in handy when there's only two people on the boat.
  20. This pic shows the transducer cable running along the bottom on the rear bench seat, secured with screw-in zip ties This pic shows the Penn riggers mounted. Each rigger turns forward, then out to the sides 180 degrees for use The major work is done, but there are some smaller projects on the horizon. Thanks for following, tight lines!
  21. After bolting the board onto the mounts, I added the white lure/cup holders to the front of the board The heading sensor came with about 12ft of wire. Rather than cut the wire shorter, I routed the wire under the deck board and along the rub rail with the 6ga wire. I also re-routed my transducer cable along the front of the rear bench, then along rub rail with the other wire
  22. After removing the board from the Eagle Feet mounts, I had to remove the downrigger bases and other accessories I set the old board on top of the new boards, all clamped together, to use the old board as a template for the screw holes in the 2 deck boards I assembled the downrigger bases on the new deck boards first, then added the aluminum yard stick, heading sensor, then drilled two holes 10" to the right and left of center, to help hold the 2 boards together in the middle. All larger fasteners are stainless 1/4-20 machine screws with 1" and/or 1.25" fender washers, lock washers and nuts. Because I drilled more holes through the deck boards after bolting the rigger bases on, I used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the boards apart, then used a small framing square to push the new shavings out from between the boards I then secured the two "middle" bolts. Now it's time to bolt the board back onto the Eagle Feet mounts.
  23. Made a lot of progress today. I made the red (positive) 4ft lead wire, which will go from the circuit breaker to the battery. I crimped these connectors with my 6" bench vice, and WOW, it works much better than my drill press vice! Then heat shrink to finish it off I mounted the heading sensor on this old 2x6, but I decided it was long overdue to replace this board with the composite deck boards I bought specifically for this purpose This board is held onto the boat by using a brand of clamps called Eagle Feet. They've been on this boat, with this board, since I bought them new in 2016. The 2x6 was some scrap wood I had laying around back then, so it's time is up Of course, this means I have to cut the wire connectors on the heading sensor wires because they won't slide through the hole I had to drill in the 2x6 before adding the connectors
  24. I installed a Minn Kota 60 amp circuit breaker, MKR-19, on the transom. I cut the red wire, attached shrink wrap and a copper battery terminal, used my 4" drill press vice to crimp the battery connector, and connected it to the circuit breaker Then I messed up and cut the black wire the same length. So I used a blue connector, heat shrink and the drill press vice to add 4ft of black wire, then a battery connector to the end. The battery will be on the starboard side, at the transom
  25. I did some time-consuming tedious work yesterday. I drilled holes just under the rub rail on the port side, every 12", and used #8 screws, flat washers and nylon lock nuts to hold zip ties in place. I zip tied the 6ga wire along the rub rail. It's heavy wire, and spacing the zip ties more than 12" apart (like 24"), the wire sagged too much
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