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Todd in NY

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Everything posted by Todd in NY

  1. Making slow progress due to the weather and my busy work schedule. Today I connected the leads from the trolling motor to the 6 guage wire that will connect to my battery. I think the factory leads are 10ga, but I'm not sure. My first attempt at using a 6ga butt end connector almost worked, but the wires pulled out of the connector. I squeezed the wire crimps as tight as I could, but it wasn't good enough My 2nd attempt was using a center punch to tap the connector closed. That failed as well. My 3rd attempt was with my 4" drill press vise. My bench vise would've been much better, but the wire wouldn't reach that far. I put the wire inside the connector, one side at a time. I then taped the wire and connector together, then carefully repeated on the other side I then squeezed the whole connector in my vice as tight as I could I then slid the 1/2" diameter heat shrink tube over the connector and used my heat gun on low heat to set the heat shrink
  2. My old paint is literally chipping off in tiny pieces. It won't serve as a good base unless maybe the first coat of paint isn't chipping.
  3. Thanks! Mine is a 1974 boat. I thought about using the Rust-Oleum self-etching primer. It's OD Green, and that's what color I want to paint it anyway. But the hardest part will be removing 3-4 layers of old paint first.
  4. Great job on the boat! What kind of paint did you use? My 15ft sears row boat needs a paint job.
  5. I'm looking forward to having spot lock. Every time I go fishing, I mark fish on or near the bottom, but dropping an anchor is just too inconvenient if the wind isn't just right, or there is a rocky bottom. I've lost at least 2 anchors in the last 5 years because of rocky bottoms. This Terrova will greatly enhance my fishing. I run my fish finder on a size 24 battery, and I bought a size 29 battery for this Terrova. My 15hp Mercury tiller motor doesn't have a charging system. I figured I might as well document this project here so other members can see how I did it, and maybe generate some ideas for someone else to us on their boat. I hope to get the wiring done today.
  6. The Terrova that I bought is the 12 volt, 55lb thrust, 54" shaft model with no foot pedal, but it has the i-Pilot remote. I was leaning toward the 48" shaft, but I decided on the 54" instead. The wind always seems to be blowing in northern NY, and I don't want my motor coming up out of the water.
  7. Now it's time to set the trolling motor on the deck and figure out what position is best for mounting it. I wanted to make sure the motor didn't stick out past the rub rails I also had to make sure there would be enough clearance between the rub rail and the motor shaft, no less than 1.5". Got the position I wanted, then marked & drilled the 4 holes. The two front holes ended up being too far forward to use I used a piece of leftover composite deck board for the backing material under the cast aluminum bow brace The motor was shipped with six rubber spacers and six 1/4" x 1" fender washers that can be used for making sure the motor sits level on the deck. It also came with 6 mounting screws that are 1/4" x 2" long, but I had to use my own 4" & 5" long 1/4" bolts. I also added some of my own 1/4" x 1.25" fender washers to raise the rear of the motor mount about 3/4" off the deck to make the motor as level as possible I added a TH Marine G-Force Eliminator prop nut More to follow after I install the wiring and the heading sensor puck.
  8. Thanks! I was asking out the Stony Creek public boat launch just south of Henderson, NY.
  9. I bought 3 pieces of aluminum bar stock, 1/8" thick & 3ft long. Two pieces were 2" wide and one piece was 1.5" wide. It's all Lowes had in stock, so that's what I bought. I needed to fill the gap under the back of my deck piece, as well as add much strength and rigidity to the deck to support the 65 pound trolling motor The next step after bolting all the aluminum bar stock to the plywood was to bend each piece, on by one, over the rub rail. I used a crescent wrench, then finished the bends with a rubber mallet so I wouldn't damage the bar stock or rub rail I then held the pieces together with vise-grips so I could drill through the bar stock and the boat, just below the rub rail where there are 3 layers of aluminum The first bolt I installed was the bolt on the forward edge of the plywood. That bolt allowed me to pivot and center the board before attaching the other bolts. EDIT TO ADD; this forward bolt is placed on the starboard side of the deck so it doesn't interfere with the trolling motor mount.
  10. I made a template for the deck out of a thin hardwood panel. Then transferred the template onto the plywood and cut out the deck piece I sanded all the edges and drew a rough sketch of the area that needed to be chiseled out A couple hours later, and the chiseled area much bigger than it started out, I was wishing I had a router. But I finally removed enough wood to make it fit I sanded both sides, then painted the board. The bottom got 2 coats of paint, the top got 3 coats, and the edges got 4 coats
  11. The boat is a 1974 Sears Semi-V 16ft (15' 9") row boat that I've owned for roughly 6 years. I decided it was time to update my trolling motor. The cast aluminum bow bracket is too small to mount a trolling motor to, so I had to build a deck out of 3/4" marine grade plywood. This bow bracket is welded to the rub rails, so it's not going anywhere. It's hard to see in this pic, but it's raised/curved upward at least a 1/4" in the middle
  12. I forgot to ask about the water level at the Stony Creek launch.
  13. Does anyone have a recent picture of the Henderson public boat launch so we have an idea of how much water is there?
  14. Replaced my fuel/water filter today, first time in four years. There was no water in the filter at all. I buy most of my gas at Fastrac. I have to pre-mix it at home before topping off my fuel tank.
  15. Here's a recent news article about the situation... https://www.newyorkupstate.com/oswego/2021/07/rep-claudia-tenney-lake-ontario-clash-over-boating-endangered-birds-at-tipping-point.html
  16. That makes it a really tough battle to improve the situation. Sucks for everyone involved and affected.
  17. I haven't been on Lake O yet this year, and I'm not sure if I'll get out there with the water this low. I might have to pay a launch fee at a marina who has a good, deep enough launch and access to the lake. I won't take chances with damage to my motor or prop.
  18. Thanks! That place took a beating during our high water seasons. Dredging to replace the sand barriers makes the most sense to me.
  19. I added another news article in the first post about the low water levels.
  20. My new job and other life events (none were bad or negative) kept me off Lake Ontario last year. This year I have the time and desire to fish Lake Ontario but the low water might keep me off the lake. I hope not, but time will tell.
  21. It will probably get worse as the season progresses into fall, unless we have a ton of rain... https://www.wrvo.org/post/lake-ontario-experiencing-driest-season-1966#stream/0 Here's another news article about the low water levels... https://www.localsyr.com/news/lake-ontario-likely-approaching-peak-water-levels-as-drought-conditions-persist/
  22. I didn't notice a piece of wood trim on top of my helm until after I finished installing the gunwale rod holders this weekend. After treating the other wood with teak oil, this unfinished piece really stood out in a bad way. Before... After... I sanded it down quite a bit because of the water damage on the right side. Again, not looking for the "new" look, just looking to improve the appearance and preserve the wood. Thanks for following
  23. I finished the starboard side rod holders today. Having those 8 rods out of the cuddy cabin sure does remove the clutter. So I have 16 rods stored in the gunwales and under the hardtop. The only 2 rods in the cuddy now are my 2 leadcore rods, a 5 color and a 10 color.
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