cheeseyrider

Why are you selling if I may ask?

Looks like a black fin tuna, caught one on a trip to St Thomas. Did u get a chance to eat any tuna?

I used the old wiring, cut the plug off, then broke off the crumbling dry rotted insulation back to the downrigger where it goes inside. Bought different sizes of shrink tubing at harbor freight, retwisted the wire, put multiple layers of shrink tubing on each wire then used larger one to cover both, then reconnected the plug with butt connectors and more shrink tubing. Alittle time consuming but worth the effort. Don't know why this is underlining

Arrived on Sunday around noon. Checked in and headed to the ramp. Went out and it was pretty bumpy. Snuck our way out to 300 or so. Landed one King and a small brown. Lost a few other fish. Had a lot of rust to knock off.

This morning it was still rough. We snuck out and set up with a simple 3 rod program. Two riggers and a 600 copper down the chute. We never took a hit on a dipsey Sunday so we figured it would be the way to go. Then we heard on the radio a guys dipseys were firing but not his riggers. Go figure. We stuck with it an eventually land a nice king around 22 lbs on the copper. First copper fish for me, never ran it much. Lost a few more fish on the riggers before finally landing a small king (released). I forget the order for the rest of the day but we caught lakers steelhead and more kings. There was a big Lul between the morning and evening bite. We roughed it out though. Lake laid down nice around 11 am so that is when the full spread went out. All in all a decent day for us. Fish and temp were deep early but once it laid down the temp came up. We ended the day with four hits right after each other. Riggers out 120 and 130'. Dipsey out 325 and the 600 copper.

Green dot spinny with hammer fly, 42nd combo and NBK stinger were best we ran today.

Back at it in the AM.

Spike

Got a Captains pac in off season 11/2012 for a steal $650, they recently replaced two net holders for free with beefed up ones. Mine was silver powder coated, they now only offer anodized. I don't think u can go wrong.

Here is troubleshooting for Bennett

 

Here is a link to a video that covers the basic system and general troubleshooting http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=10

Here is a link to a video that covers troubleshooting the pump des not run http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=13

 

Look at the motor boday and see if it looks corroded.

Let me know what you find and I will walk you through fixing it.

Tom McGow

Bennett Marine

Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve

Green= Starboard Valve

Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)

Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)

Black on HPU=Ground

Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:

Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:

Operation=Reaction

Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down

Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down

Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down

Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up

Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up

Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).

Thanks for all the info I should be able to figure the problem out. I ll let you know how I make out

I believe my tabs are Bennett, any help is appreciated, thanks

Have same problem with mine, boat is a 1990 so there probably on a long time. Are they worth trying to repair?

We were there Monday caught 8 total ,3 Lakers, 3 browns, 1salmon, 1 steel. Ran down towards catfish and the rock cliffs  they call the high-rise( all towards the  power plant), setup  there fishing towards power plant in 25-45 water then headed out once past the rocks til hit 85ft water, put down cow bells off the bottom on two poles, ran the others for browns n steel head colors off riggers and boards. Fished parallel to shore towards five stacks staying in same water. Some boats were running along the bouys towards shore and following that line, fished long leaders even on riggers 85-100 ft back. Went back Tues morning and tried to run same program but water temp changed, was a lot colder in that area from high 30.s -40's. Day before temp was around 50-52 surface. Saw ur trailer in lot when we took out Tues. Id try to stay in the warmer water 50-52 and fish cow bells with peanut on the end. Funny the salmon came on a bluecowbell with a small blue spoon on the end instead of the peanut.

duckreaper     I sent you a PM

I second that, I looked on the Orleans Ct site and came up empty.

Rain or shine I sent you a PM

PM  sent

My understanding when you run copper you have to run whatever length you have on the reel out until the backing is at the tip of the pole and copper is in the water, same as lead core, you can't stop without putting out whatever you are carrying because having leadcore or copper at the tip continuously will wear out the line. I have seen leadcore just break at the tip when just putting out a few colors and leaving some on the reel, I'm new to fishing copper so please help out if this is incorrect.

Sent you a PM, will buy them

I told the dirt bag he didn't belong on this forum as a scammer.

I sent you a PM

Anyone have any experience rebuiding the tilt/trim hydraulic cylinders? My resevoir keeps turning a milky color, drained it and re-filled ,same thing. Looked at the cylinders and you can see traces of oil around the end. Are they a pain to work on as opposed to buying after marked and replacing new? I know they make re-build kits and after market new. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

Just to set the record straight I contacted Gemeco, Airmar's branch that sells transducers and they do not carry adapters that adapt one transducer to fit another make FF, you would have to obtain a pigtail from the maker of the new unit and splice wires. My bad

From what I understand thru Airmar you can buy short length adapters that will let you adapth a transducer from one brand FF  to another. I'm going thru the same thing, I have a P66, bought to fit a lowrance and going to a furuno 587. What I would really like to know is it worth the extra money to go to the TM260 ? Prior answers have been you don't really need anything more than the P66 and 600W due to the depth of fishing in LO. Has anyone used a TM 260 to really say whether the difference has been. I know that once you have the TM260 you can use the 1K watt on the 587 and are good for salt waters deeper depths

Captain's Cove had parts for mine last year and they also repaired back then.

Thanks Vince for your help. I only have one thru-the hull hole from the old Si-tex. Do you think this is a DYI project or one left for the pro's. Also is it worth the extra $400+ to go with a 1K transducer rather than the 600w, assuming I'm going with the Furuno 587? Where should I look for the adapters you mentioned?

FYI  There is a recent post under Questions about Lake Ontario Fishing under Airmar Transducers that may answer some of your questions.

I've been reading alot of posts trying to learn as much as I can before I replace my fishfinder. Looking at the Furuno 585/587 but not sure to go with a transom or thru the hull mount. I'm replacing a color lowrance that took a crap with an airmar P66 already mounted on the transom. Originally on the boat had a SITEX with a thru-the hull transducer. It was one of the those larger units that looked the size of a minTV, I never liked it so I replaced with the lowrance. I left the thru the hull transducer alone and simply ran the cable to the side out of the way and cable tied it. I have a plug with o-rings on it that I believe is used to plug the hole if you wanted to remove the transducer in the hole. I left well enough alone. So if I went thru the hull would you remove the present thru the hull with a flaring block and work with that hole or just let that alone and start over with a new hole. With my lowrance and the P66 when I had to increase RPM's to maintain speed into the wind it seemed I had more interference on the screen which I attributed to cavitation due to more air bubbles from increasing RPM. I guess there is the possibility this was caused by electrical interference also due to increased RPM. With a new installation I'm trying to eliminate that and improve performance which is why I'm considering thru-the hull transducer. I've been on The Hull Truth site and looked at the installation videos from BOE. Other questions that pop up would the P66 transducer from the lowrance be usable with an adapter to make the plug end work with a Furuno or is a new transducer required? Would I be able to use the present thru the hull transducer with the Furuno by trying to get an adapter to make the end plug work? Lastly I fish primarily LO so what are the benefits if any if you went with a 1kw transducer instead of a 600 watt transducer. Not sure it matters but I have a 1990 Thompson 210 Fisherman. Any help/insight would be appreciated.

I bought their Captains Pac back in Nov 2011 when it was $650 no tax, no shipping, 14 rod holders,one net holder, radar pad, light brackets (2) sitting home in the box waiting to install. All quality stuff. Can't beat for value. Price is $750 now. My 2 cents