codybuehler

I got the old skunk today. Tried coppers, leadcore and riggers parked a anywhere from 50'-110'. Changed colors out in the spoons every half hour or so. I was trying out a bunch of new gear so I didn't feel like playing with the dipsey and flashers.

I put a brand new Lowrance hdi transducer on over the winter. Worked just ok, then just afternoon it failed and wouldn't show anything. It would just read random, incorrect depths. We never picked up bottom until we were in the canal mouth in less than 20 feet. Between that and the kicker steering connector rod crapping out, it was a fun day.

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I'll see you there in the morning, also! 65 and sunny. Should be a good day!

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Sold!

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I have a pair of Big Jon Otter Boats and line clips for sale. I bought them new last spring and used them a couple times. Very good condition. They only have the single skeg. I will also throw in the line clips. I am not sure what brand they are, but they are solid little clips with rubber covered alligator style line pinchers. Looking for $150 for it all. I would prefer pickup, but can ship as buyer's expense. I live in Bloomsburg, Pa, but can drive to meet or meet in a few weeks when I head up to Watkins (early April). I will post pictures later today of the boats and line clips.

I emailed the company and asked before I installed it. I specifically asked about trailering. The response I got was the no-trailering clause was for insurance purposes. He said to make sure it was secured well before heading down the road. They are just covering themselves in case it wede to fail. I trailered it home last night about 18 miles and the amount of bounce I could see the motor doing was a bit unnerving. I am anxious to see what it looks like on rough water. Hopefully Seneca doesn't gain another outboard on the bottom!

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I just had an 8hp Tohatsu installed on a Panther kicker bracket. Beautiful install by Hall's Marine in Muncy, Pa! Does anyone have any experience with these adjustable brackets? It is rated for a 35hp, 230ish pound motor. My kicker only weighs 95 pounds. By the looks of it and how much it flexes, I'm not too sure how well it is going to hold up? The original plan was to trailer the kicker right on the bracket, but I'm not trusting it as much as I originally wanted to.

http://www.marinetechproducts.com/pages/550410/

That is a link to the bracket I purchased for anyone who cares to check it out.

Thanks for any insight or experience!

Cody

I feel for you guys up there. I only had to move 4 inches of snow down here in PA to move my boat out!

Does it have power tilt/trim?

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It was amazing.

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I just talked to them. The guy on the phone (very nice and knowledgable!) said I should be good the way it works now. He said if performance on the water wasn't enough, give him a call back. I was surprised that there wasn't an automated system when I called and a real person answered. Good deal.

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That's an ingenious little part. I will get ahold of them. Thanks!

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I am installing a controllking on my Tohatsu 8hp kicker. The directions with it say to hook it to the manual throttle linkage and turn it enough to give some play. Is it fine to remove the hand throttle linkage and use the controller linkage as the sole means of throttle control? Has anyone had any success or failure this way? I will keep the manual linkage in the boat for emergencies. It goes back in easily. I could only adjust the manual throttle enough to be able to use 7-9 on the controller dial. Anything above 7 would torque on the servo bracket. Without the linkage, I can use all the way up to 9. (9 being full throttle and 1 being idle.)

Sold!

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Thanks for the info this far. I read somewhere about the break in and using conventional oil. As long as it has the fc-w on it, and isn't from the bargain bin, should be good.

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I just bought a brand new Tohatsu 8hp 4 stroke motor.  It comes with no oil, so I am trying to figure out which oil to use in it.  I was going to get Royal Purple Synthetic 10w40, but I am shying away a bit.  The owner's manual for the motor says not to use synthetic.  There exact words are, "use of synthetic oil is not recommended in 4-stroke outboard engines. Outboards use raw water cooling systems and using synthetic oil may prevent the engine from reaching sufficient operating temperature."  Is there any truth in this?  I know synthetics are more efficient, but that efficient?  I have no issues with using either marine grade conventional or synthetic.  I just thought I would put this out there for some input from people who are more knowledgeable than I. 

Thanks!!

Moor Subtroll 900.  I bought this from a fellow member in June of last year.  I only used it a handful of times.  It includes the entire kit (Probe, 200' of coated cable, power wire, and pickup wire, see pictures).  It worked flawlessly.  The probe has some dings on the end cap from bouncing on the gunwale of my boat, but it just has some white showing through the black coating.  It is structurally sound.  I took the battery out when I winterized my boat, so it will need a new 9v.  Moor has the instructions on their website on how to install this.  It is pretty straight forward except for attaching the cable to the probe.  You will need some rubber splicing tape and cable crimp sleeves(check out Amazon for those).  Why am I selling?  I have been eyeing one of the new FishHawk systems .  I would like $250 shipped, or $240 picked up. That is about average for what I found used systems online for.  This one is nearly brand new.  I paid $400 for it.   

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I was going to post a similar topic to this today, but I will just add to this discussion!

I have a 19' Sea Pro cuddy that I would like to put a kicker on. Would a 6hp suffice? I assume that the bigger you go, the lower the RPM's, but it's a balance to where weight and hp need to be.

Does a hand tiller or remote steer matter beyond personal preference?

Went out on the south end around 7am. We were greeted with wind and chop. I started out in around 250FOW. There were fish and small amounts of bait spread all over. Had 2 knock offs on a white spin doc with no one home down 100'. Moved a bit more shallow and had 2-3 knocks on the downrigger. 1 fish was on for a bit on the cheater, but only for ~10 seconds until he was off. We zig zagged between 75-250FOW all day seeing small amounts of bait and fish scattered everywhere. Finally managed a small LL salmon on a FLT herganator down 101' in 285 FoW at 2pm. The fish in close were stacked heavy, but the weather sucked horribly and they wanted nothing we could throw at them. At least the boat ran great! The currents were also swift. The probe was at 2.25-2.5mph while my SOG was 3-4mph. You could watch as we would hit a side current and the probe would drop to 1.25mph and then come back up to normal speed. It was also 66 degrees on top and 62 down 100 for the most part.

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People are finally starting to give the 7-8' rods a try over the longer rods mfg have been promoting for the past 30+ years. For most boat layouts a good 7' rod is ideal. Remember, a fishing rod is a lever. The fisherman is on the short end of that lever and the fish is on the long end. The longer the fish's side of that lever equation is, the more effort you have to put into landing the fish which just tires you out.

I did some experimenting a few years back comparing two rigger rods, a 9' rod and 7' rod. Both rods were moderate action with similar power capacity and had the same length grips. Using one reel with the drag set to slip at 3.5lb of dead weight transferred from one rod to the other I measured the amount of lift the left forearm wrist and hand the angler would have to apply to hold the rod at about a 45 degree upward angle. The longer rod required about 13lb of upward lift force from the left forearm, wrist and hand while the shorter rod only required about 9.5lb. This means the longer rod required the fisherman to use about 40% more strength to apply the same pressure to the fish as the shorter rod. That's a significant difference especially for children, women, the elderly, or people with physical limitations like arthritis.

Are you an engineer? Haha! You can't argue with physics. I am going to mix some 6'6" and 7' rods and see how they do compared to my bigger poles.

Thanks!

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The 7 ft medium action Ugly Sticks work fine Cody....I use a couple with 250 copper setups even.

Good to know. Guess I am headed out shopping tomorrow!

Thanks!!

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I guess I never really mentioned how I would be using them. I am going to be trolling with them. Your info helps, though. I assume I'll have plenty of space to be able to play the fish a bit.

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I have a bunch of Okuma downrigger rods, Eagle claw downrigger rods and Shimano TDR rods.  They seem to be overkill.  I was thinking of switching out a few with Ugly Stik GX2 rods, 7' or 7'6", medium and medium light actions.  They are rated for 10-20lb line.  Would these be adequate?  I assume you can reel anything in with any rod, it's just a drag and time game to a point.  I wouldn't fish kings with an ultralight stream rod, but the huge downrigger rods seem to be taking away a bit of the fun. 

Thanks!

Cody

Went 7 for 10 or so. 4 rainbows, 2 salmon and a laker anywhere grom 1-6lbs. Had a few other takes, but no one home when we grabbed it. These took fish today:

FLT chicken feed on the rigger 61' to 81' and on 10 color leadcore. Had a fish on the 81' rigger break a 12 lb leader. Not sure what it was, but it came up to the top, shook and away it went. It was hammering the rainbows today, so it possibly was a good one.

Wonderbread spinny with a green/blue fly on a white prism dispey out 180.

A hot pink DW at 81' took a nice bow.

Mtn dew spin doc/green fly took a laker and salmon at 101' and 61'.

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