TyeeTanic

I don't think the lines are more than 30 ft from the boat - but I am guessing. I've never done the math.

If I'm right you don't want to come within 60 feet of each other, but that pretty close.

How do you join wire to a mono lead without a swivel???

For this to work, I need the knot tight without a swivel so I can reel the knot all the way in and have only mono through the guides.

Hey guys - just bought a VHF radio and signing up to get my licence.

What channels are you guys on, on the weekends?

Read my post above, I have Precision Trolling's Big Water 2 Book - it has all the charts. If you want to know depths, get this book - it is very precise.

The image you are looking at showing the spread is in the link below. It is the very last paragraph.

http://www.luhrjensen.com/downloads/tec ... yDiver.pdf

Don't use the depth charts in this link though as they are not accurate for wire or braid.

Assuming you are traveling at 2.5 mph and you are talking about a Mag 3 Diver with ring - you will get about a 2:1 on wire, but it does taper off as you get longer - so 100 ft = 50 ft, 200 ft = 90 ft, 300 ft = ???? There are no graphs for this much wire out.

You still have LOTS of time.

I went out yesterday, off Bronte - it is freezing out there!!! The surface temps were 46F. It might be worse today.

You will need to head out - FAR!

500' of wire is not enough - you will get to close to the line and possibly lose everything.

Setting dipsey's deep may already cost you 250 - 300' of wire. Then a good king can run 100' - 150', so you will have 450' of line out - leaving 50' left - that's a small reserve as far as I'm concerned. Come to the end of this reserve and you have lost all of your 500' wire plus all your tackle. That will more than pay for the extra 500' of wire.

It really isn't worth it to cut costs here - put the 1000' on.

Probably just creat a loop at the end of the wire and twist around then attach the mono like you are going through a swivel - but would really like to hear how it's done by MountainM.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice.

So will I just see a major swing up in temperature, or should I stop when I see a certain temperature like 65F or 70F?

Guys - I could not believe my friggin eyes tonight when I went out in the water. The surface temperature at Bronte is 46F!!!!

Just yesterday it was 72F.

Anyhow, I tried from 75ft - 125 FOW. Found baitballs at 80 ft and marked a few big boys at the same depth, but I only had two shakers on.

I fished everything between 20 and 30 ft. But I must say it was unproductive really.

What is the best technique - move into shallow water and set the spoons in shallow water, or move to warmer surface water much further into Lake O? If you search for warmer water, what temp do you look for? Is 65F enough?

Thanks.

MountainM - the mono suggestion sounds cool. I have 40 lb Floro lead - will that be good enough?

Good idea.

Chowder I know, but the problem is I have to seperate the two pieces of my rods to store them. This means if I keep the tackle on I bend the wire around two guides, and it causes kinks. I have a bow rider and I have no where to keep the rods if they are fully assembled. What I do is break them down and then lock them away in a compartment on my boat.

So problem is because of this, I run the risk of kinking wire after each fishing trip after I put the rods away. It is better for me to just cut the wire and tie it around the first guide closest to the reel. It keeps the wire tight and I don't need to worry about kinks.

What I do is keep my dipsey set up all ready - so everything except the fly or lure is all hooked up. All I do is pull the wire through the guides, tie the snap on and attached the dipsey set up. It takes me 5 mins max.

Mark

By the way - does the same apply to braid line?

Tbromund,

It actually is a pain in the backside to get the dipseys set so they don't pop while trolling. I can't tell you how many times I've got the line out 200 ft and then pop goes the wessle! Reel in everything and start over again. So, yes, I do overtighten a bit, but on new dipseys, until you get the clips to loosen a bit, it is really difficult to not have it overtightened.

If they don't pop with a fish on, are you saying just leave it and work against the dipsey?

I lost a biggie this weekend too after a 30 min fight. I think the strain on the wire is just ripping the hooks out of their mouths.

If it's a biggie again, I'm going to pull my other rods and slow/stop the boat, probably circle the fish to help land it, always keep the tension on though!

You do need to "set the hook" just to make sure the dipsey pops, otherwise your arm will fall off by the time you get the fish to surface.

Mark

Okay, so I promised I'd post some results after doing a test using the Fish Hawk,

Depth Temp

15 ft 55F

30 ft 50F

50 ft 45F

60 ft 44F

100ft 42.5F

130ft 42.0F

This was on Saturday, July 9th at 7 AM. I tested several more times during the days, but there wasn't a major change in the temperature profile. Fished in 120 - 140 feet of water throughout the day.

Hooked at 20 ft - two very small 2 - 4 lb fish - steelie and chinook

Hooked at 40 ft - 1 very large fish, 30 min fight before hook came out of mouth - very tired arm

Hooked at 40 ft - 1 medium sized rainbow - about 8 - 10 lb.

Hooked at 60 ft - 1 medium sized chinook - about 12 lb

Hooked at 100 ft - 1 large lake trout - 20 lb

Also hooked, but lost 2 more fish at around the 40 and 60 foot depth.

Most of the action was between 40 and 60 feet of water, which would make it a temperature band of around 44F - 48F.

Will repeat this test and check for consistency.

Okay I made a BIG mistake today.

I had a beast on my line - after 30 mins it was still pulling. I didn't pull my other rods out and slow down the boat.

After 30 mins and the fish starting to get tire, the lure released probably torn through the mouth.

This fish would have definitely paid out money in the Salmon Derby.

I am kicking myself hard, should have just pulled the other rods and driven the boat towards the fish. AGhgghghg

Thanks Chowder for that knot tip - i did it today, it worked like a dream.

I am just going to cut 4" off each time and tie around one of the wire guides.

It is easy enough to tie the line next time around and I know I'm starting with a clean

slate.

Fishing Report

Your Name / Boat Name: Pirate's Cove

==============

TRIP OVERVIEW

==============

Date(s): July 9, 2011

Time on Water: 6 AM - 3PM

Weather/Temp: Clear/ 28C

Wind Speed/Direction: South

Waves: less than 1 meter

Surface Temp: 72F

Location: Bronte, Burlington, Hamilton

LAT/LONG (GPS Cords):

===============

FISHING RESULTS

===============

Total Hits: 8

Total Boated: 5

Species Breakdown: Chinook, Rainbow, Steelhead

Hot Lure: Black/Purple, Watermelon, Dartee 2, Pink/Light Green fly

Trolling Speed: 2.8 mph

Down Speed: N/A

Boat Depth: 120 - 140 ft

Lure Depth: 20, 40, 60, 90 ft

====================

SUMMARY & FURTHER DETAILS

====================

Good day out there with a mixed bag. Lost one biggie after a 30 min fight. Hook came out of

the mouth, while still under tension. Caugt a 18 lb steelhead at 90ft lure depth.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

What I think went wrong yesterday is I did something s2pid.

Snapped the flasher on the wrong way around and fished for 1 hour. When I retrieved

the tackle, my connecting line (between dipsey and flasher) was all twisted on my wire line.

I think this caused a kink. I thought about re-tying the line, but left it (too many fish on the \

chart!) About 30 mins later I pulled in the wire dipsey and pop, everything came off.

What I normally do with my rods is take all the tackle off up to the wire snap swivel. Then I take

my 2 piece rod apart and carefully put them together trying not to kink the line. I then put the rod

in a sleeve and it goes in a compartment. I need to do this as I have a bow rider and need to get

the rods off otherwise I can't put my cabin tarps on.

Unfortunately there is a risk for the line to coile out some and also get some kinks through the guides

where the wire turns as I put the 2 pieces together. I will just have to keep monitoring.

I have even though maybe to just cut the tie everytime and tie the wire end to one of the guides. It

takes a few seconds to tie another loop and it will avoid a lot of kinks and wire un-coils.

Mark

Was reeling in my line last night to put the rods away. Pulled to pop the dipsey and then everything went lose. The wire snapped and I lost a mag dispey, snubber, 50lb wire braid connecting line, flasher, lead and fly. Nice!!!

Anyhow, I figure the line was stressed where I joined it to the quick connect swivel. I haven't really checked them in 3 or 4 fishing trips.

So the question is, should I just be remaking new ends on the wire (re-tie to the swivel) everytime I go out, or just check them?

Thanks,

Mark

Thanks Gill-T.

I have a 9 year old boy. Same problem - must produce every 15 - 20 minutes or I don't here the end of it,

Okay, I bought one yesterday!!! Will try it out tonight, can't wait.

I had to search half of Ontario for this probe!! I found only 1 shop that had 6 left, and it took me almost 1 hour to drive there!!!

It seems these probes are so popular the local distributor has them on back order.