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About TyeeTanic

  • Birthday 01/01/2000

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    Fishing, did I mention fishing??
  1. It's 50/50 with us as well. Perhaps you have good color combinations with SDs, but not with pro troll?
  2. 100 ft of braid backing, then tie your wire. Anything that stretches (mono) or is a cushion below the wire (tape) isn't the best. It will cause the wire to pull tighter on the reel and this will misalign the wire with the reel guide, which will cause lots of friction and possibly lead to a reel lock up if a big fish hits. Braid is generally used so that the reel is 100% full when you spool with 1000 ft of wire, which makes the line counter more accurate, as it is calibrated to the correct length per revolution at the very top of the spool. As line is fed off the reel, the line counter becomes more inaccurate.
  3. Steelhead are always in the top third to half of the water column. They generally like warmer water than king, which is why you catch them on the free sliders. This time of year, with the water being cold top to bottom, you really need to target the first 15 ft of water. In July and August we generally find them at 20 to 40 ft.
  4. To target coho, as you say we would run high lines this time of year, focusing on top 15 ft of water. Also, there are specific coho setups involving a orange dodger and a twinkie fly (silver fly that is short around 2 to 2.5" long). I had good success getting them on an all blue mepps syclops lure.
  5. We use a snubber between the ball and cable for two reasons, but first here's the entire setup, cable end-speed/depth probe-snubber- ball. The reason we do it that way is if anything will break due to a hang up, it'll be the snubber, and at least you don't lose the probe. But it also helps in waves, to take some stress of the gunwale.
  6. Paul, I totally agree on repeatability. However, I'm just answering the poster's question. He asked how can I mark line every 10 ft. Someone said count the line guide passes. That isn't accurate in terms of ft out.
  7. Watching your line guide past isn't an accurate method when you have to let a lot of line out. As the spool gets thinner there's a lot less line going out for each pass of the line guide. To give you an idea, when you are almost empty of line only about 1/3 of the length goes out per revolution when compared to when the line is full.
  8. His spoons are awesome, but his customer service needs to be jacked up in a big way. Too bad, those spoons could have taken over the market.
  9. Definitely run wire divers. Some days they catch all the fish. On average they catch as many of not more than any other setup. Shimano talora wire rods are the best, but you can use a standard heavy/medium rod. Needs some flex and long (minimum 8ft in my opinion). Need to add a twillie tip with a standard rod. Spool 1000ft of 30# 7 strand or 19 strand, smoke colored wire. Connect directly to a swivel using the wireline knot (search the lotsa site and you'll see pictures of it).
  10. I started left with bass rods, then went right with salmon rods because that's what was available. Right handeds are fine ... and better to have for resale (more popular)
  11. Exactly, and the snubber helps to soften blows to the downrigger/gunnel in wavey conditions.
  12. Can you take a few pictures of them, as follows: - close up of the arm. - close up of the entire board, connected to your line. - board in water a few feet behind boat - board in water in the final position (distance) behind the boat. With those, I'm positive we'll be able to figure this out.
  13. Okuma convectors are the best you can get at that price point. The important parts are steel, which is well ... important!
  14. What reel are you going to use to put 1000 ft of wire, and then 300 ft of weighted steel?
  15. My general rule of thumb is UV works best when there's sunlight, introduce glow on darker days or very early in the morning. Nowadays I like to use spoons with both UV and glow. Start off on a clear morning, when it's dark and the glow works, as the sun comes up the UV takes over.