TyeeTanic

Cannons, you will appreciate being able to adjust with one hand when there's a fish on the line in the other hand!

30# wire for dispeys, 7 strand. 30# mono good for downriggers, and then some 15 lb or 20 lb fluoro for leader (20').

Run inside at 1, and outside at 3 for max separation. Let the outside one out first, and then deploy the inside one. You should be fine, unless you hit a situation where you try and deploy the outside diver AFTER the inside is in the water. This sometimes happens when a fish hits the outside diver and you bring it in, then redeploy it. The issue is when you redeploy it isn't biting into the water and pulling to the outside nicely. It just sinks behind the boat and inevitably tangles with the inside diver line. It can be done, but you have to release it really slow on the outside of that inner diver. Otherwise, for first timers, I'd say just bring in the inside diver to check it, and redeploy the outside first, inside second.

We normally put a variety of colors out at the beginning of each day, and see what works. No doubt there are many days when a certain color takes preference for the fish. In general we see the colors I indicate above working as a big picture guide through the fishing season, but that isn't a steadfast rule, which is why we put a variety out.

There's no doubt certain colors work better in early, mid and late season. I don't know why, but gold, silver, blue, chartreuse are great colors early on. Then green in mid season. Then red/orange/purple in late season. It almost follows the salmon colors, nice silver in May, then green backs in June/July, turning dark in August.

Convectors are probably the best value for money. All the important parts are robust. They lasted me for a while.

Agreed, provided all 3 guys pay an equal share to the tournament costs. Costs include entry, food, lodging, boat slip, etc. In the past, we took winnings, paid all costs, and then divided by # people + 1 boat, assuming each paid an equal share in the entry fee (which was in essence paid in advanced so this cost was not taken off).

Most you'll get out of an Okuma 30 is 7 colors with around 120 to 150 yards of braid. By the time you let it out, put a board on, let it out some more, you'll get nervous. I suggest an Okuma 45. I agree with what others are saying to use braid backing ... mono would take up WAY too much reel capacity.

Nice. Best fighting fish in Lake Ontario if you ask me (I don't fish for Sturgeon).

Typically the 600 series is used to get all 1000 ft on, with a little bit of braid backing.

Good system, does things other systems can't. Yankee did do an informative review, search for it.

Any boat cost = initial investment + additional investment to fix things. 80's ... I agree with post above, you need to take a good look at the engine and drives, you don't want a big $ surprise. My friend has a awesome Pursuit, got it at a deal knowing he'd have to put work and $ into it. Still came out ahead, but he worked hard last 2 years and paid lots of $$ in. The boat is in awesome condition now, and again, he came out ahead (comparing to buying a boat in the current condition). But he knew he was going to invest $10k's more ontop of the purchase price. Be careful, it can turn into your worst nightmare.

I always hold the netting in my hand on the shafts and only let go once the basket is below the fish and at least half the fish crosses the rim of the net. Alternatively there are net clipping mechanisms that release under the wight of the fish once it is in the net.

Awesome. This is definitely on my bucket list.

Chrome frog and Atommik stud fly is doing a lot of damage.