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TyeeTanic

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About TyeeTanic

  • Birthday 01/01/2000

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    Fishing, did I mention fishing??

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  1. Church Tackle TX 44 boards. Don't go any smaller than that. Trust me... I've replaced mine, until I got to the TX 44's
  2. Why not braid backing ... first of all, you'll get WAY MORE on the reel, and I think the knot is way more secure too.
  3. Blue works, green is good too ... but mostly the trick is to have something with glow. How deep are you talking?
  4. One thing that happens with the long wire is that fish take a run for the boat, and it's hard to feel that .... so the line slacks. Fish off. The only thing I know to do is to keep that rod as high up in the air as possible ... and having a long rod for the copper helps for that ... then you just have to be able to react fast enough to keep that slack off. Also, did you notice the fish jumping out of the water (likely then to be a rainbow) ... that makes it really challenging to keep the fish on.
  5. Yeah it can get bad sometimes, especially if you also have a cross wind pushing your boat sideways. A mate of mine had his rigger cable go into a prop, and he was using 16 lb torpedo weights ... it was insane.
  6. Man, at that boat speed I'm surprised it's happening. Anyhow, all I can say is that underwater currents may have played a game with you, or even a good wind that was pushing the boat sideways, so when you think those dipsey lines are off to the side, they aren't, only resolution is to keep that copper dead center of stern until it's all out, and then hook up your planer board ... I wouldn't prematurely move the copper line to the side while it is still deploying ... you now know why.
  7. Perplexed ... what boat speed are you at when you deploy? Obviously it's sinking fast, or the dipsey lines are way too high. You sure the dipsey isn't popping prematurely?
  8. I think one advantage of the backing is you CAN get a good knot between the braid and the wire line. Direct on the arbor ... not sure I'd trust anything.
  9. If I can offer some input. As others have said, speed is important ... doesn't take much more or less to dramatically impact the depth. Second is your terminal tackle. If you're pulling a big paddle, it's going to create more drag and lift the line up. I suggest putting braid on as backing .... first of all it doesn't create as much drag in the water as mono will, and you will be able to get WAY more backing on that reel ... 150 yards is NOTHING. A 25 lb king will take all of that plus some. Second thing it allows you to do is attach a torpedo weight right after you let out all the leadcore ... attach that after about 5 ft of braid, and THEN you will get the extra depth you are looking for!
  10. Using them in front of lead core to get more depth, or off braid works well.
  11. Yes, you need to look at the wind ... that's what causes it. Basically when wind pushes all the hot water on the surface from one side of the lake to the other, and that water hits a shore ... it needs to displace water ... so basically the colder water on the bottom is pushed out deeper by the hotter water being pushed by the wind towards the shore. That cold water then moves towards the opposite shore that is losing hot water, and displaces it ... which causes the turn over.
  12. 1. Line to spoon directly ... I'd think the line would get cut eventually. 3. Is the best, but use smallest bb snap swivel you can find ... I mean tiny!
  13. Torpedo's in front of a leadcore when you need that extra depth! For sure!
  14. My buddy uses them on his outriggers ... he uses otter boards.
  15. The absolute best way to run copper is on outriggers and offshore planer boards ... if a fish is on, it comes off the clip and you are fighting only the fish.
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