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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. I used a troll plate in the past, you really lose your ability to steer. That's the one big downfall. I would agree with the others, drift bags are your best bet ... provides stability to the boat too ... if you have a bag out on each side.
  2. Not sure about the specifics ... but some of these guys are on auto-pilot, and then don't watch where their boat is going ... pure insanity.
  3. We run two spin doctors per side all the time ... very few tangles if you take care of a few things. Watch the turns, and deployment of the outside rod correctly, often reduces chances of tangles.
  4. I see no issue using a twili tip with mono ... in fact, if I had to guess, I'd say it's probably safer to use that then a typical loop style line guide ... the twili as you know puts a nice soft bend in the mono ... and it's smooth steel, so it should not abrade the mono.
  5. I would say the best setup is a 10ft rod behind (closer to bow) an 8 ft rod (closer to stern) ... but that is not necessary. I wouldn't bother changing your 9 foot rods, but if you can get 10 ft for the back, that would be good. As others say, space them at least 24" apart on the gunwale. You want the dispey off the bow rod (10') to be running higher in the water, and farther from the boat. So typically we go 3 setting on the dipsey, and use a regular ... never a mag on this rod. For the rod closer to the stern, we would set on 1, and use either a regular or a mag diver (bigger disk). The reason you want this is when a dipsey pops with a fish bite, it will always RISE and move to the CENTER of the boat. So the outside line has to be higher, so it goes over the inside line (rod closer to stern), and not tangle up the lines. If you have the choice, deploy the outside lines first (bow rods), then the inside rods (stern rod) ... reason is, as you deploy, you're not allowing the dipsey to bite in the water ... so it has a tendency to dive deeper (think of it like it's sinking in stagnant water), and it doesn't pull to the side as much. Only once you lock the bail, will you get it to bite into the water and start pulling up and to the side. So, if you deploy the outside line (bow rod) say after the inside line ... you could get tangles. Now some of us got real good at this, and have no issues getting an outside line out while the inside line is already deployed. The trick is to let that dipsey out SLOW ... so it does bite a bit into the water and moves to the side (on 3 setting).
  6. My condolences. Let his memory live on in what you do!!
  7. Unfortunately with deposits, and the money at stake ... these guys have to weigh up the risks of a forced cancellation. My whole family got omicron over a week ago. This variant seems to be weak, we got a cough and a bit of nasal/head congestion ... but it wasn't that bad, we almost carried on our normal routine ... it would be at worst like an old head cold. I thought this variant was a blessing in disguise ... if it builds immunity, than this is the variant you'll want to get of the choices out there! Anyhow, I think everyone is freaking out again ... and society needs to chill a little bit, especially over Omicron.
  8. Fourthly, lots of turbulent water behind a ball ... would probably screw up the downspeed measurement. Fifthly ... shipping adds a lot of cost to the product ... lead is heavy. Sixthly ... most people already have balls (that came out wrong!) ... and don't want to pay another $150 for lead ... and then you'll have arguments and need selection at 8 lb, 10 lb, 12 lb, 16 lb, 18 lb, 20 lb, 25 lb weight options ... to much of a headache. Sevently ... most balls have a ring where you can connect right at the ball ... so just clamp it to your balls if you want too (that came out wrong again).
  9. I misread the post I was replying to ... sorry I was reading fast, and didn't realize we had switched to braid line ... the OP spoke about using mono line ... and I'm concerned about getting down that deep with mono, even with the weight ... there's gonna be tonnes of drag. Yes, I agree if you have a MAG ring on a dipsey, or weighted ring on a diver, and using braid or wire line ... you can get to below 85'.
  10. I'm listening to this guy! By the way, here's my comedic take on all this ... with supply shortages on virtually everything ... I wouldn't be too excited about finding deals ... people are paying PREMIUM to get stuff. Just be happy if you can get your hands on decent product.
  11. I agree with this, but a few additional thoughts. I'd want to know how they joined the wire to the mono ... I wouldn't want that wire cutting through the mono line, otherwise goodbye to everything. The CV 30D for sure holds 1000 ft of 7 strand wire ... that's what I used on all my setups. I'd still go for the CV 30D for the downriggers ... if you're putting on 30# mono (which is what I recommend, 40# I find starts getting a bit too stiff and thick) ... you'll want a 30 size reel to get a decent amount of mono on the reel.
  12. A 12 lb weight on a rigger has about 40 ft to 50 ft of blowback, when you try and hit 100ft to 120 ft deep. (So you need 150 ft of line out to get 100 ft down). How much blowback you think a 7 oz (little more than half pound weight) weight will have? Answer ... tonnes, you'll have a tough time reaching 100 ft without the right diver on it to assist.
  13. In the middle of summer, wires often target 80' to 100' deep, on Lake Ontario. I don't think slide divers are gonna cut it. Wire divers and riggers is basically you're only options.
  14. No doubt, manufacturers establish a MSRP ... and they watch it. Sure there are sales, but often this comes down from the manufacturer themselves. Cars, electronics, etc. It's not price fixing in the sense that, you are free to choose another electronic supplier and pay for something cheaper. A manufacturer may decide the sale price of their product, under contract through a retailer.
  15. Yeah for sure. We often have 300 ft of wire out ... with mono, you'd never get to the same depth, even if you let out all 700 ft. You'd probably snap on a heavy torpedo weight to help with the depth, and have 400 ft of line out. Then when a nice fish takes out another 200' to 250' of line ... you'll start messing your underpants knowing you can see the bottom of the spool. Now, if you want to do shallow water fishing ... sure, you can put on a heavy torpedo and have say 150' to 200' out ... say target top 30' of water ... it might work ... still, I wouldn't want less than 400' to 500' of mono line on the reel. Everyway you look at it ... much better to have braid than mono, and even better to have wire, given the sink rate and smaller diameter (which allows you to put that much line on the reel, often 1000' is the go to length of wire on a reel).
  16. What reel are you going to put a minimum of 700 ft of mono on? Not your old wire ones ... that's for sure. I'd much rather use braid then mono. You won't get good sink rate and you will have a heck of a time popping a dipsey when you have 200 ft or more of that mono line out. Anyhow, I think people use 20 lb mono, because there isn't a real around that could hold enough 30 or 40 lb mono ... at least not one that doesn't cost a fortune.
  17. I wouldn't want to use a 16 ft boat on Lake Ontario. I've seen the weather turn quick enough.
  18. Everything has it's challenges. Solar energy in the desert works, until the panels are coated in dust. Then you have to bring water into the desert to clean the panels ... plus no way to recycle solar panels, it is a major contaminant in landfills. Nuclear for now is the way to go ... minimal waste (although highly radioactive) ... but we can solve that with a deep geological repository ... or send capsules of waste to the moon.
  19. Nuclear fission was not a "possibility" in the 1800's. Nuclear fusion will be possible in the near future. Sustainable fusion for 30 seconds long has been demonstrated just this past month. The event is held suspended by magnets, so the high temperature of the core is not in direct contact with any materials.
  20. I wouldn't put boat in neutral if you have wire divers, copper, leadcore or riggers out ... you're for sure gonna bottom out those lines, unless you are fishing shallow lines in VERY deep water. Plus you don't know what the underwater currents are doing and whether they'll send the wire divers into the rigger lines ... just asking for big trouble, could cost a lot of money and time to fix that mess. Not worth it. Plus, more chance the fish spits the hooks, if not well set, and you go into neutral.
  21. 5 color, braid lead of say 6 ft, and another 5 color, then backing.
  22. Outside diver (further from the boat) ... setting 3, less line out. Inside diver (closer to the boat) ... setting 1, and possibly even use a larger diver (mag). more line out. For example, inside might be 200 ft out, inside would be 150 ft out (higher in the water and further away). Reason. When the outside gets a hit, it will rise, and move to the center of the boat. If it is below (lower in the water) than the inside diver, it will cross into the inside wire, and tangle. If it is higher, it will just go over the inside wire.
  23. So, there's two suggestions I can offer: 1) we tie a boca grip to a rope. When you're finished removing the hook, you clip the fish onto the boca grip and drop it into the water behind the boat, attached to the rope (which is tied to your boat cleat). You carry on, while the fish is "dragged" through the water by your boat (at 2 mph or so). This has an amazing revival rate, as fresh water is sent over their gills. When fish looks like it is fully active (takes about 2 to 3 minutes) ... pull the line in, release the boca, and good bye to a healthy fish. 2) in terms of the net, and avoiding bad tangle ups, I think one thing is to tie up the net material. I don't have an imagine of it, but see in this photo, how the guy is holding the net back onto the pole, you can do the same, except with a clip ... the clip is worthwhile when your net has a very long (often telescopic) pole. It prevents the net from draggin back towards the fish as the boat is still moving, and getting a nasty tangle up. Makes for a clean fish netting excercise ... and once the fish is in the net, the clip releases and the fish easily enters the center of the net. I used a magnetic latch to do this, one end hooked into the net, and the other end quick-tied to the post. https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Fly-Fishing-Magnetic-Net-Hanging-Buckle-Magnet-Net-Gear-Fishing-Tool/PRD0RQ764062OX4
  24. Just one point though, when you have a paddle on, drop the DR slower .... otherwise the paddle and line to bait get tangled.
  25. I'd say majority of time spoons ... which also gives you an option to put on a free sliding cheater line. But for sure some guys put paddles on with meat/MC rocket, or flies. Start with the spoons, if they not working, then you can switch one up to paddle/bait.
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