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kingpossible

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  1. I've done this on the tohatsu. I bought a kit from Boats.net and installed it. I did have to remove the flywheel. I used the alternator kit and the rectifier kit. Cost a little under $200. The relevant parts numbers are listed on this website: https://www.tohatsuoutboardparts.com/Electrical-Kits.html I'm unsure if they will work with the Mercury, but my guess is since the motors are the same, they might.
  2. I'm planning to try it this spring on Lake Michigan once the alewives show up. Going to net some at the pierheads and then head out to deeper water and send em down.
  3. Walloholic - Take the reels apart yourself and clean off the drag washer that are in there. I've soaked them in dish soap and water for a few days, rinsed them off and let them dry. Might be worth a try. The thing is that these reels don't have the largest drags to begin with. I think these washers have then felt drags? If so, put a drop of oil on them before reinstalling.
  4. I don't change the diver-to-attractor leader distance. I like longer leaders in general. You might need some help netting a fish though - my leaders are all too long anyways so I need to handline the fish in every time even with a spoon behind the diver.
  5. I think most hooks are size 2, 1, and 1/0. It has been tricky to find a brand to get the replacement hooks. Ideally, you want the replacement hook to match the weight of the hook you're replacing to get the same spoon action. I've used VMC 9650 hooks for some stuff, and have bought some Owner ST-36's (pricey). I wish I could get some of these hooks in silver, but have not been able to find any.
  6. I have an overfilled spoon. What I do is measure 50 ft in the driveway, pull the cable to 50 ft, set the counter to 50 feet, and fish it from there. It will read negative when i bring it up, but I make my adjustments based of the 50 ft baseline.
  7. I always use a quality swivel to connect to the spin doctor swivel. With the two, I've never had a problem. I wouldn't direct tie only to the spin doctor swivel.
  8. Definitely an exciting trip! I can see trouble from running a longer core down the chute - especially when the fish this year have been tangling up with my board coppers that I have out 60 ft+ on each side of the boat!
  9. My favorite is a Luhr Jensen Coyote 11" Paddle, with a Big Weenie Brand Poofster Fly (a white fly) 38 inches back from the paddle. Set 25 ft behind a downrigger down 70 feet or deeper. The non-agitator paddles will occasionally change direction mid spin. You can experiment with speed to see where the action seems best. I like 2.5-3.0 mph at the ball, but I've had it work anywhere between 1.8 and 3.2 mph. Sometimes if you're going slow, the paddle will wobble back and forth. This can be killer near the bottom for lake trout.
  10. One is you only need 150 feet of copper, vs 225 feet or so of LC to achieve the same depth. But be careful deploying in shallow water. The 150 copper will hit bottom quickly.
  11. King Possible - Fish Hawk Calibration Method.pdf
  12. I'll put some more details on the calibration in a bit, but here is my experience: On several different Fishhawk units from the factory, the speeds vary! Switch probes out to another head unit and the speed changes again. Unless you calibrate your unit together with all the other fishermen on the lake all your units will read slightly different.
  13. You should calibrate downspeed with GPS! And the surface speed with GPS and downspeed too! BUT... Make sure there is no current where you do the calibration. I calibrate going about 3 mph GPS. To check the water is calm, I go in one direction set the calibration, then troll back the opposite direction and make sure the speeds match. If it's slightly off you have current (if it's not much you can figure out what the difference is and factor that into the calibration. Make sure to calibrate water temp at the same time too.
  14. I have two 15" strips of king salmon soaking & 1/4" of meat soaking in brine right now. I'll see if I can get them stiff enough to run.
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