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chowder

Professional
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  • Home Port
    Olcott / Dunkirk
  • Boat Name
    Esther II, and Emily III

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  1. I'm admitedly a cheap bastard but I've had very good luck with buying reasonably clean Daiwa 47 Sealine SHS (super high speed) for basically all my lead core and short copper rigs. Because you don't need a lot of backing on a walleye rod (unless ya hook up with a muskie) I've gotten as much as 300' copper on a Daiwa Sealine 47 SHS for walleye applications. I don't usethese reels for anything more than 150 copper on Ontario due to the need for significant yardage of backing. For walleye applications I pair the used 47 Sealine SHS with a Okuma GLT classic pro ML rod. I use those rods for almost all my walleye rigs including riggers, slidedivers and board rods up to 150 walleye copper. For longer walleye copper I usually go up to the Eagleclaw Med rod.
  2. Hey, Thanks! -I just ordered one ,makes sense to me this would help especially in conjunction with a kicker pushing.
  3. After talking to a number of people I have decided to go with the Tohatsu MFS 9.9 EEFTL. This is a tiller, EFi motor with elec start and power trim, this model also has the 4 blade High thrust prop. It weighs 118 lbs. I'm planning to use the simple steering connector available from Cabelas to link steering from the Optimax to the kicker. I am really hoping that the early Lake Ontario brown trout fishing and the NY portion of the Lake Erie Walleye fishery improve significantly over this past season's difficulties or I'm probably gonna regret dumping money into the outboard boat but I guess it will be good to have a gas powered backup for the Optimax...
  4. Thanks, that tells me quite a bit about the iPilot’s capabilities. I will try the iPilot in conjunction with the 200 Optimax and see how it steers that. The problem with doing that on Erie for eyes is that at idle the Optimax pushes the boat at 2.2 to 2.4 so there isn’t any room to have the 110 lb thrust Minn Kota turning at all. Guess I need to decide how much weight I want to add to the transom and how much money I can justify throwing at this situation
  5. Ok, my off season, walleye and river boat is an older 22' Crestliner Sabre SST outboard (I also have an older 25' Hard top Crestliner i/o kicker stup for main season Ontario). Hank at L&M did a repower to a 200 hp Optimax saltwater model before it even went into the water after finding the hull (which wasnt easy). He also installed a 72" Minn Kota 110 lb thrust 36 volt iPilot bow mount. I've been fishing with this boat now since March and I'm considering the following issues: 1.) There are times in early browns/ early salmon season (I work out of Wilson/Olcott) when, if it's rough the bow mount can struggle to maintain speed. 2.) Although the Merc has performed flawlessly so far, it is not a new motor (paid $4000 for it) and I have concerns about getting back with customers on board in the event of a failure. 3.) I am not sure that it is an ideal practice to subject the bowmount to long bouts of running 'hard' to troll but I don't really know? 4.) I have concerns that a 4 stroke 9.9 hp size kicker even at very low throttle would make the iTroll unable to perform as the autopilot. So, I'm tumbling around a number of possibilities and would love to hear from anybody with experience trying any of these things: 1. Adding a transom mount 80lb thrust electric with separate batteries from bow mount ( would be very quiet- which I love! and contribute some extra umpfh to get back and wouldn't overwhelm the bow mount's ability to provide autopilot function and the price is right ($500-600) 2. Adding a 4-6 hp 4 stroke kicker . This would have more ass to get back in the event of an issue w/ the Optimax but I'm guessing it would not overwhelm the iPilot bow mount and so I'd still have an autopilot. This option would cost around $1000 and it would not be quiet 3. Adding a 9.9 hp 4 stroke kicker. This option has pros and cons for sure: it would have significant superior performance in the event of needing backup but it would contibute a lot of transom weight to a boat that spends a lot of time on the Niagara river drifting in challenging situations. It would be quieter than a single cylinder 4-6 hp but it would also be quite expensive at somewhere around $2400+. i also have concerns that using it for trolling in the rougher water conditions that challenge the bow mount it might overwhelm the ability of the iPilot to effectively perform as an iPilot. Anybody got experiences with this conundrum?
  6. Just in case anybody is interested in this topic (hint: you probably should be- wait n see): 1.) YES, it's very simple to link a HDS gen 3 to a iPad, Lowrance purposesfully made it that way. 2.) YES, you can use the iPad to see AND DO evrything you would do as if you were at the helm or wherever the head unit is mounted. 3.) VERY SIGNIFICANTLY, at least for me as charter capt without a mate, you can use the Lowrance autopilot commands from the back of the boat which is awesome!!!) 4.) numerous people have reported that by turning brightness all the way and leaving the iPad plugged in and using a polarized screen cover and waterproof cover (an investment of about $30) there are no significant issues with visibility or potential damage to the ipad screen. So, I think I'm gonna give this a try before I put the salmon boat away. probably gonna learn the hardway that a cheap $60 used iPad isnt the best econo option but what the heck, nothing ventured, nothing gained...
  7. Not looking to add another $creen to the boat. iPads are wireless ,can be fitted with simple glare hoods and waterproof covers, they are used in many industrial automation settings because of low cost (good,used ones around $50-60)
  8. Maybe, I think the play sand bags are maybe 50lbers? I think I had 5 up there, 3 on one side 2 on the other
  9. I’ve never been a big one for running as fast as I can I guess. Not sure I ever experienced a pounding issue with my Islander in all the 13 years I fished with her. That being said, I have 2 Crestliners now , a 21.5 Sabre / 200hp Optimax and a 25’ hardtop/ 440 io and both of those boats will really ‘**** and git’ but I just won’t run them hard in rougher water. My customers and my 63 year old spinal column don’t like it and neither one has any weight forward . Also I just noticed you said you put the weight where the live wells were and I’m thinking that’s like amidst ship, right? Not sure your gonna cure nose up issues with weight there but I could be all wet
  10. I’m not savvy with this Bluetooth technology or iPads but I was finally watching my Lance Valentine Vimeo tutorial on the HDS gen 3 and he mentions controlling the HDS unit with an iPad so I am figuring you must be able to see the screen to do that. I’d like to have an iPad in the back of the boat to see my screen when I have customers on board and I am busy helping them in the back of the boat. Any help on this much appreciated . ( I have an HDS 12 for sonar and a HDS 9 for gps/radar mounted in the wheelhouse)
  11. I had an Islander for years. I put sandbags as far up in the nose of the cuddy as possible to help weight distribution and getting on plane with all the tackle + kicker I had on the boat. Using a bit of trial and error I established how much extra weight to add to starboard side of the nose to compensate for the kicker on the transom port side.
  12. Okuma GLT 7’6” ML can’t beat the price- great for browns, landlocks, Lakers, I can handle a Spring king on these rods . Very tough to bridge the gap between a rod that allows you to really feel inland lake fish and yet handle a big hot king that doesn’t want to yield
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