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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. Exactly. We always had short leads on the stacked line ... like 8 ft.
  2. Yeah, I wouldn't do it. You'll fix the cheater with a rubber band ... the idea is the band will snap with a fish bite, and that cheater will slide all the way down to the flasher ... which will roll your line into a tangled mess. Rather used a stacked rod, or stick with cheater line on a clean spoon line.
  3. They tangled during deployment, or after a while of being in the water tangle free? Most of the time, I've seen tangles happen during deployment ... especially when you have the inside diver in the water, and try to deploy the outside diver. As you deploy, there is very little drag on the diver to bite into the water and pull the dipsey up and to the side ... imagine, it just sinks down almost straight in the middle of the boat ... and has a deep dive angle (like throwing a rock out the back of your boat). Then when you stop spooling it out, it bites, and goes up and to the side, and STRAIGHT into the inside diver line. The trick to deploying the outside, is to pull that rod to the side, and let it out REALLY slow, to keep it up and to the side, and away from the inside diver. If that's not the issue, it could have been bad currents, or tight turns ...
  4. BEAST! With my 35 lb'er ... it just sat at the bottom like a log ... it didn't run very much. I honestly thought we were snagged for the first 3 minutes.
  5. Steelhead definitely a more sensitive fish ... but on the other hand, they are often in slightly warmer water ... not sure. 10 floating away is a lot. How hot was the water on top? Maybe just a once off thing?
  6. Yes, that is an option too. To go on the backer. I did both actually. I just liked the to go on a (strong) leader ... it means that most of the time you don't need to take the diver off when reeling in a fish. I wouldn't put it on anything lighter than 20 lb though.
  7. I used the gen 1 on both rigger and diver lines ... I had no issue on the riggers ... divers sometimes got out of range ... not sure if it was just the angle and not seeing the transducer, or electrical interference which degraded the signal. They must have come a long, long way though, several years have passed since gen 1 ... and there's been a lot of use, so I'm assuming they would have made a few upgrades.
  8. I've used them to get my leadcore deeper. I generally connect them where the leader attaches to the main line ... don't want to risk a fatigue break on the leadcore (or copper in your case) from the pinching clips. Used OR16 clips to attach them to the leader. This way you can take them off quickly (if needed), when you reel in a fish.
  9. Generally, I prefer meat rigs on the copper/weighted steel lines ... leave the spoons for the riggers, and flies on the wires.
  10. Agreed, 30 pound mono is what we used. Braid is useless, although I heard guys saying the 100 lb braid works ... line diameter is thick enough to make it hard for fleas to hold on ... haven't tried that myself though.
  11. What lb and type lines are you running?
  12. You mean you have a twillie tip at the top, with normal line guides? What are the guides made of ... are they black or a chrome metallic finish?
  13. Dipsey divers will be your best bet. But you might want to also put a LARGE torpedo diver on a leadcore, off of a planer board to get depth and provide a different presentation.
  14. Oh sorry ... yeah, for sure I'd say colder = slower ... but also towards the end of the year, it's tough, but I'd generally start faster, because kings are striking out of aggression, rather than to feed, and we want more erratic presentations to trigger that bite.
  15. 2 mph to 3 mph, starting point 2.5 mph. Make some turns ... check if outside or inside lines get a hit. Outside means you need to speed up, inside means you need to slow down. Will change from spot to spot, as the under water currents change. Best to have down speed.
  16. It works. Glow lasts longer when charged.
  17. None of those fish are chasing your lures ... when they chase, you'll see those arches stretch across the entire screen. Also note ... although the screen says the fish are under your ball ... they may not be ... the sonar scans out several feet on either side of your boat (how much depends on the water depth) .... those fish could easily be 10' away from left side of your boat, and the ball could be on the right side ... separation of 15' or maybe more. Even with that separation though ... the fish seem uninterested ... so here would be the game plan. MARK THAT SPOT ... especially where you see them stacked (your 2nd photo shows 5 or 6 fish). Turn around and go through that spot at several angles .... from north to south, south to north, east to west, west to east, NE to SW, etc. Just keep figure 8'ing it through that point ... the reason to change direction ... if there are any underwater currents, your bait will be going faster or slower through that current, even if you maintain a steady 2 mph GPS. Also, think about slowing down or speeding up by 0.2 to 0.3 mph. Also, change your presentation ... colors, lure type, etc. If you have multiple rods, use different colors and lures on each rod to minimize your time to test options. Keep going through that mark throwing a bunch of variables at them, and hopefully something works. If you find something that works, change all or most of your rods over to that presentation.
  18. Ever consider a handheld VHF (obviously waterproof), with DSC? If the boat goes down ... at least you can maintain comms via the handheld.
  19. Thank you ... what size is that 5 of diamonds? About 3"?
  20. Cool! Would be grateful to see some photos of some of the lures and stick baits you use, to get an ideas of pattern and SIZE,
  21. Dark we almost always focus on the glow ... those normally come in green colors, but honestly I don't think the color matters too much. When the light comes out ... color is dependent on a few things, I'd say the most important are (a) time of the year), and (b) depth you're placing the paddle in. I'll talk briefly about (b) depth. The theory is that fish see only certain colors at depth. Search up fish color spectrum ... and you'll see that certain colors completely disappear at 60' or deeper. Now in terms of (a), I find chartreuse works early in the season, then blues/silvers, then greens, then reds/oranges/purples towards the end of the summer. However, that isn't a steadfast rule ... you would start with those colors, but if you don't get bites, you would normally flip in a couple of different colors to see if something else is working that day. And then there's further complexity ... the color that worked between 7 am and 10 am may not work between 3 pm and 6 pm. So, it's good to still keep some different colors out there, and clue in on what the fish want at that moment in time.
  22. They each have their days and even times. To keep it simple ... UV needs sunlight ... so you probably won't use it much if it's cloudy, dark or you are deep in water. Instead you'll resort to glow. There are a few flashers and flies that are both glow and UV ... so they have both!
  23. We're going to be flying up to a pristine lake in Northern Ontario to target some walleye this year. I've never done walleye fishing ... but I got myself a nice rod and reel based on the advice of a few guys who have been doing this for years. Question is on lures, jig, etc recommendations. What is your go to for this stuff. I'm going to buy what the guys I'm travelling with tell me to buy ... but I thought maybe someone here has a secret weapon that they don't know about! Haha. Thanks for any advice guys!
  24. yeah, we also just put a 12" paddle on the line ... without terminal end tackle ... and let it all out, then wind it back in.
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