Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Bozeman Bob

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

65 Excellent

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

4,308 profile views
  1. Pretty much goes with the territory , I guess if it bothers you that much ,don't go out until the hatch's [ these are not as bad as the biting flys ] are over with
  2. Looks like 5/8 or 1/2 " line , but that's just a guess judging from a picture . That's what I would do and it would probably end up like that for a long time . Almost looks like it says 5/8 but I can't blow it up enough to tell.
  3. Have to take the whole section to a hydraulic shop. They can figure out the size..A hardware store might even be able to help you out., doesn't seem like it's a high pressure hose if you have a clamp on one end. Matter of fact if I couldn't find a replacement hose I would buy a hose from NAPA and a hose coupler from the hardware store . Cut the hose a few inches from.the end and slap it on . At least for the weekend if you wanted to get out on the water.
  4. Looks like you can cut some more off and re-clamp. If not and it has the screw in fitting on the other side some NAPA store make them in house or a hydraulic repair place would have it or be able to make you one.
  5. Not sure about this particular situation .Most setups I have seen have a PS line that goes to a heat exchanger and many times people fail to drain them/properly winterize . So there is a possibility that is cracked and oil may have leaked from there. If that happened you can fix or replace . 3rd option is to couple in a longer hose ,eliminating the cooler , and leave it laying flush on the bottom. That in itself acts as a cooler with the lake never getting warm ,the extra 5-6 feet of hose helps cool it down and the PS doesn't really get overly hot up this way to begin with. Guy I know did that and no issues .
  6. No problem ,your welcome . If I can have one person rethink the way they fish when going solo or better yet finding someone to go out with ,then my OPINION got through. Glad you have made it 35 years by yourself , I have you beat by 25 years fishing on the lake , doesn't mean a thing if your out there and thing go south in a hurry. . What's. your late Dad have to do with anything ? Again for those of you that have a hard time comprehending , this is just my opinion ,that's it . Done with this thread .
  7. Ok , how many that have replied or read this post that fish solo use a kill switch tether ? How many have a two way radio and cell in a dry bag that they wear , how many wear a life preserver ? How many file a float plan with another person ? How about having a medical emergency and getting to land by themselves. I have seen.guys out there solo in a fog and no radar , talk about playing with the Grim Reaper. Share a Seat on here is a great idea for the person that may have second thoughts about rolling the dice. Again my opinion and good luck to all that partake in this .
  8. IMHO no one should be out there fishing alone unless your tethered to a kill switch ,even.then its questionable at best . I sure wouldn't want to be legaly responsible for running any kind of tourney with a 1 person limit. To many things can.go wrong , should be same rule as diving alone.
  9. If fluid is up to the vent cap I would check solenoids. I believe there are two, one for up and one for down . Might even try swapping them to verify.. Cheap enough to replace , car parts store will have them ,not marine specific. If the unit is somehow bad I think I have one ,let me know. ( have a lot of spare parts from over the years out in garage )
  10. Since no one has replied I will ask the obvious . Wood ,aluminum , fiberglass ,condition , any time frame and type .length of boat ? A few more details may or may not help.
  11. Most of the tournaments have eliminated using a observer this season.
  12. In most cases ,not all , the engines are over propped a bit ,so adding a little hp isn't going to mean buying props , just puts it on the money. May even see a little higher cruise speed and better mpg. What's your max rated rpms and what are you hitting at WOT ? Time not a factor ,go local and ask the builder for recomendations on things like roller rockers vs stock and heads will have to be shaved ,so he should / will make sure you have enough stock left for that to happen. Good luck !
  13. They have not made the 3i8s since the late 80s ,so I don't think your going to buy a new one. ,especially 2 for 3600. Unless there short blocks which is a route I would not take. More like 3600 per engine ,longblock and rebuilt not " new " and maybe with a 2 year warranty, depending on who you buy it from. Personally I prefer having someone I know rebuild them . That way I know what was replaced ,what options I might have for any upgrades in durability and possible HP. Buying online means you don't know for sure if oil pump , intake valves , lifter springs ,water pump ect have been replaced or they were in mfg specs and not replaced. If your in a hurry you may have to buy online since this is the busy season for most rebuild shops. I would ask and make sure the engine was put on a dyno to be broken in and checked for any oil ,water leaks before I dropped it back in the boat. Going from.a 2 to 4 barrel carb with a better tuned intake manifold may give you a extra 20-25 hours per engine .
  14. 12 volt test light and start tracing from the switch back if no power at the switch. Switch forward if you have power there. Can't really tell from the wording in your post what exactly isn't getting power. Check all grounds as well , pretty basic .
  • Create New...