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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. Try Google , Fiberglass repair
  2. I would be afraid to run a outboard conversion to jet drive in anything less than 2 ft of water. How far down does the drive sit in the water vs a inboard that picks up and discharges water along the hull line ? Based on that I do not see the upside of using one in this part of town. Most people fishing that shallow are casting and maneuvering with a electric trolling motor. To each his own.
  3. Uhh they have been mfg for decades .There have been at least 3 FG ones made powered by jjet ski motors, including Polaris and either BW and or Sea Ray. The NW is loaded with aluminum ones powered by GM blocks. Can't see trolling with them , very inefficient as well. No thanks.
  4. Captain Bob's on Main st in Clarence . Should be on Facebook if you want to call first.
  5. Barrier coat the hull and then paint it if you want to prevent growth. I use a ablative paint. You will not get any growth on the thru hull as it is located midship and will not see anysunlight which is where your algae is at it's worst. Now I just paint the transom ,waterline and bow area , pretty much where the sun hits the hull , the bottom will get touch ups if needed but nothing grows there without the sunlight.I also used blue paint for my first coat over the barrier coat the covered that with black , now I know where to touch up if need be. Not sure if you will be marking fish or bait while on a high speed plane. Never had any luck with that on my 3 thru hulls in various boats over the last few years.
  6. While I agree about using life jackets while going out solo I also don't presume he wasn't wearing one. Most sail boaters I see are wearing them ,more so than fishermen .Usually they have a safety cable that is attached to the cable railings as well . Could of been a medical thing and until they find the body I would not rush to judgment . Could be in a life jacket floating out there .RIP.
  7. More of a cosmetic thing . You have solid glass under the gel coat so water intrusion into a core is not a issue. Pretty much have to do what MCF mentioned . Those little blisters may grow in numbers over time. Depends on how much time ,effort and money you want to put into a 26 soon to be 27 year old hull. Either open up the big one and have a auto paint shop blend it in and they probably could repair it at a reasonable cost or live with it , can't see it from inside the boat ! The small ones would be a bigger PITA than I would want to deal with.
  8. Usually you go by your rated max RPMs for the engine ,what you are achieving with a normal load ,then go up or down in pitch based on that. Yes you will get better fuel economy , better speed and less wear on the engine if propped correctly. In your case you will also troll slower at the same rpms you were at before the new prop.
  9. Drive shaft grounding strap which should be lubricated with a petroleum based jelly or you will end up with a groove in your shaft over time. What is wrong with the one in the picture ?
  10. Might be a bit bigger than your looking for ,but you wont lose money on it and bigger is better on O. 1987 27 Tiara Open , 600 hours on rebuilt 350 crusaders ,1400 hours on hull. New Simrad GO 7 extra props ,new risers, exhaust manifolds. Soft top with Radar arch and launchers , asking 16,500. Friends boat , not listed anywhere else ,yet.
  11. Screamer Atommic on FB may be your best way to contact seller.
  12. I would rather own a older decently built boat with some character marks than a newer cookie cutter boat that can't handle the rough stuff . I have fished on a newer 23' fiberglass boat that if the seas are over 2' your heading for the docks ,looks all pretty back at the dock and that's the problem it's docked, not out on O. It's a fishing boat ,not a show boat. But that's me , good luck with your search.
  13. Bigger is better on O . I see a 1988 Wellcraft 25 on Craigslist [ Cape Vincent ] w/trailer ,reliable easy to work on Mercruiser 350/260hp V8. Asking 7300 , this time of year you might get it for 6 to 6500. Not going to be any harder to handle than a 23' and will hit the rough stuff a lot better than a 21-23' . You get used to the size after 1 or two outings. Leaves you a lot of room considering your budget ,to outfit her with new equipment. Fished out of one for years and was a great hull ,always felt safe and easy to land fish in.
  14. Bean bag on the foredeck and your styling at nap time fo sure !
  15. From what I read it's been a freshwater boat its entire life .Not sure what low hours mean but those engines should run 4 -6,000 hours with no problem. Dropping another engine in is about as easy as it can be on that boat That does add to the value compared to what you probably saw online which are saltwater boats. If that's the case you have to add in your time and money to look at one ,have it surveyed then pay to have it transported back. That alone may set you back 4-7,000 . What electronics ,as in up to date and fishing gear are on it and if you buy a boat not equipped what are you dropping $ on that ? Is the boat worth it ? Only you can answer that . I think you would be best served by setting up a time and date to get on it ,look under every nook and cranny you can to see if it everything is in order. Turn off and on everything that has a switch to make sure all systems work. Then take it for a sea trial , drop it down to trolling speed out in the lake and see how she handles the ditch and waves from every direction ,think you will be pleasantly surprised. Then make your offer based on all the info you can gather ,good luck !
  16. Without knowing what years your looking at it may be hard to answer. From the 80's to mid 90's they are cored as most boats in that size range are ,including Tiara., Owned a 28' 1987 for 5 - 6 years and had a moisture meter on it before I sold it ,was dry as a bone and that was done while it was in the water..Unless someone started drilling holes in them and without properly sealing them you should be good to go , A survey in most cases will tell you the condition of the core. They run great in a following sea and plant themselves in the ditch like know other boat , do to the modest 11* deadrise . Now the trade off is in 3-4 waves and running into them , even with there deep bow they have a tendency to pound a bit over 20 mph. Usually dropping the trim tabs down will dampen that quite a bit. As far as design and layout it is the best I have ever seen. Every hatch is designed to make whatever your working on easy to get at. Slight crown in the deck and deep gutters around everything has water rolling off and nothing hitting the bilge. The hull itself is built like a tank and all hardware is oversized and top of the line. Only reason it was sold was the need for more room under the hardtop when running bigger charters . Fighting deck was plenty big enough for that .
  17. What year and length Rampage are you looking at? The boat decoy hound posted I believe was made at a different facility. The original company was bought out. So you may be comparing apples to oranges.
  18. I would try Laing's Outboard Motors. You can google it for number and exact location. I think its Ward Rd off River Rd in North Tonawanda. Specializes in older motors.
  19. Tiara is 1' longer and 1' wider ,weighs a 4- 600 lbs more and from what I can tell has more deadrise than the Pen. So it should run a lot better in slop. Need more info on the Pen , engine or engines ? Inboard or I/O ? The engines are a lot further apart than a twin engine Pen , you can actually work on the inner facing parts of the engine ,plugs, manifolds ,alternator ect. My opnion, the Tiara is a much better built boat ,from hardware and overall design to the layup of there glass. www.yachtsurvey.com has a write up on the 27 open ,might be worth reading. I assume [ from trying to decipher your post ] that you currently own the Pen.
  20. Wouldn't worry about 3 or even 6 ". If they take a measurement its going to be at the stern. Most ,not all , boats are a bit wider where the bow area ends . They then taper back as you get to the stern. Ask the seller what it measures at the stern.
  21. Probably take you 10-15 years to recoup your investment on a kicker. The 350 is going to burn 1-1/2 GPH at troll . The kicker 1 GPH maybe a bit less , Depends on how much you get out , and you have a new engine which in theory should be trouble free . Between the radio, cell and Tow USA [ insurance for that is around 150 per year ] or whatever may be in your area I would lean that way. Or I would buy a older 2 stroke and put it on for emergency's and not bother with remote controls , you can buy a tiller extension and store a 3 gallon gas tank in the bilge if need be. I would also rather listen to the 350 idling along than a kicker running at 1/2 throttle going in and out of the water all day long ,but that could be a matter of personal preference. This is just food for thought and if you really want a kicker have at it !
  22. If you have a hynautic steering system ,yes you can hook up to a I/O. If you have a power steering pump ,like on a car it won't work. Try turning the wheel on your car with the motor off ,same thing on boat. Unless you idle the big motor which would be self defeating. Are you trying to save gas ? keep hours down on the 260 or concerned about trolling speed.?
  23. Yes they are bow heavy , Kicker is going to set you back a bit $ , decent 10-15 hp 4 stroke - separate controls ,fuel line gets teed into main fuel line and hooked up to a autopilot. Since its a inboard you cannot connect to a outdrive so your only choice is autopilot . Probably have to get in touch with Taylor for glass and hatches are usually Bomar which can be found on EBay along with rubber window molding. Boat companies outsource pretty much everything but the hull ,so google or ebay/Amazon will be your best bet for locating specific parts. 99% of boats do not have a actual owners manual so boating forums are your best resource for specific info , Iboats and the hulltruth.com are decent sites. Lastly I would have it surveyed and let them know that's your biggest concern. At the very least triple check the transom and the stringers for rot. They are known for that , dock neighbor has a 25 and after be bought it discovered the stringers were internally falling apart , So tapping and listening for a dull dud sound or removing some screws or driliing into a few spots and taking a small pick to remove the shavings to see if there mush is going to tell you a lot. Maybe see of anyone has a moisture meter that would also work without drilling holes.
  24. In a lot/most cases you cannot just grab the prop with your hands and try to spin it to see if it's spun. It might take a prybar or 2x4 to get it to move , so I wouldn't trust what the "mechanic " came up with unless he did that which it sounds like he didn't.
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