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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. Fin on lower unit is supposedly designed to keep your boat on a plane at a lower speed . Not to help you get on plane . I don't believe in them ,especially for the size of your boat . If they were the " answer " they would of been integrated into all lower units decades ago . I would pull that off , nothing but drag in your case . Lowering your pitch will NOT negatively affect your top speed , should increase it . Do the math , 21 " prop X 3800 rpm will get you how many inches you traveled ( no prop slip figured in ) Now multiply 19" X 4600 rpms . Not having your exact numbers ,just using this as a example. Your engine is constantly lugging ( wearing out the engine ) right now , know matter the speed and burning more fuel in the process . SS props will be a tad more efficient as the blades don't flex like aluminum will , so less prop slip . Drawback is , you hit something at cruising speed and the prop shaft takes the brunt of the hit , vs the " give " in aluminum. 4 blade will have less slip , smidgen less top end ( drag of extra blade ) and slightly lift the stern of the boat . Probably your best bet if you're constantly leaving port with a full load .
  2. Check with Yankee Troller ,he has the goods .
  3. Trolling bags will settle it down in the ditch . I use G2 outfitters , there bags IMHO are best ones out there . Probably going to need them if you have fuel injected engines , as they have a ECM that controls your idle rpms vs a carburetor that you can adjust .
  4. Actually it mostly depends on the exhaust manifolds risers height in relation to the exhaust height on the transom itself . The higher the riser or engine itself in relation to the transom or corner exhaust the better . Water ingestion mostly ,not always ,happens when you come off the throttles quickly , the exhaust flapper is still open , the water comes rushing up to the transom and into the exhaust pipe and is forced into the riser then the exhaust valve itself . I've never personally heard of that happening when trolling ,even in rough seas as the engine flappers are burping off and on along with the engine not breathing hard . I could be wrong ,but that's my understanding with what I've read and heard of this issue .
  5. Not a owner ,have fished on a Pursuit . Excellent boat , similar to a Tiara but designed more for the fisherman than the wife . As in less cabin and more platform . Probably comes with a big block , 454 - 502 and velvet drives , both bullit proof .Engine bay is usually tight in them ,but workable . I would look it over with a fine tooth comb , make a offer based on it passing a survey by a accredited one , ASME / SAMS , I think are the two that are , which you will need in most cases for insurance . If the survey finds anything that $ amount to get it repaired can be taken off the offer sheet , if discussed beforehand .
  6. I believe this was a topic last year in mid January and a lot of people got all excited about it .... Yep , Erie froze shortly thereafter. The more things change the more they remain the same . I wouldn't get worked up until February.....
  7. The narrower the beam the easier it cuts through the water . Ever notice the " Cigarette " type hulls , designed like that for a reason. Now when your trolling they rock way to much for my liking . Don't even think about putting it in the ditch . Most CCs are wet boats as in only the guy behind the console escapes being soaked in any sort of conditions, exception being flat calm.
  8. I hope that after 3 years he resolved that issue , like shortly thereafter, as in days
  9. One deep cycle battery should run electronics and riggers all day long , if not a few days , without having to be charged. Electronics are all state of the art, low draw . Riggers are basically windshield wiper motors that you might run up and down 5- 10 times a day IMHO . They don't draw a ton of juice either . If your worried a solar charger might help , as we do get sunshine that time of the year , spring and summer .
  10. Should be able to see the outline . Doesn't affect high speed . Bolt on or flush professionally done job ,do it once ,do it right .
  11. They work excellent, Tiaras have smallish rudders to begin with . Difference is night and day , figure around a grand to do them . The extension are welded on , that's the only way to do them . Highly recommended and would do it to just about any boat I owned to be used for trolling , especially with auto pilot .
  12. Not a big fan of leaving batteries in boat . Two storage facilities recently have gone up in smoke because of that . One in Toledo that was in the multi multi millions damage wise and one in Tonawanda that didn't approach that number but multiple boats were destroyed. As far as leaving them on the cement floor or wood , doesn't matter , decades ago it did , but not now with the way they are made . Are you lazy and just want to leave them there or do you want to take the time and do it right ? I'll take the time and remove the 8 batteries I have in two boats . No fire for me ,thank you .
  13. Yes they are known to be decent engines . It's really all about how it was taken care of , as in oil changes .
  14. I see signs all over that area , particularly on the reservation against the Stamp project. One of the companies scheduled to build there has some sort of possible explosion with what they are doing . The potential explosion zone is something like up to 20 miles from the plant . So it doesn't bode well for the locals . Think chemical - gas explosion like Texas has experienced. Dumping sewage into the Alabama swamps isn't really a great idea . They say it will be treated like you can drink it , ask Niagara Falls about that . There has been plenty of pictures and press about that **** show when it rains out and the plant overflows raw sewage into the river just below the Falls where all the tourists get to see the beauty of black sewage dumping into the mighty Niagara.
  15. Depends , I/O or straight inboard ? In either case , mounting bracket will be different, exhaust manifolds may not mate with exhaust through I/O , main wiring harness from engine to gauges- ignition switch will have to modified to work . Not sure if flywheel (dampener ) plate - are the same . Current out drive a OMC or anything but Mercruiser will mean a different bolt and cit out pattern for the out drive if OMC ,as in break out the fiberglass and resin and glass work here we come. Control cable ends will be different. Probably a bunch of things I forgot, good luck.
  16. Any pictures of the deck from the steering wheel back , including the dog house . Being a fishing site , that's the first thing to be looked at , not the cabin or head .
  17. Milwaukee - DeWalt etc cordless fans move some serious air and obviously no drain on your boat batteries. Also good when the ankle biting flies come out , put fan on deck and aim it below knee level .
  18. I do not care how many feet of cable are let out or what the downrigger line counter shows . In my case , when the ball shows up on the screen at whatever depth , I go by that reading . No geometry needed .
  19. So when my FF shows 100' and it shows my weight at 100 , how come I'm hitting the bottom ? Must be a optical dillusion, dam I hate when that happens .
  20. Do you have the dimensions of the cavity ?
  21. What dimensions is the current tank ? I have a rectangular brand new tank that is 20 gallons.
  22. Personally I would start by buying a new starter motor . Your current starter may have a dead spot on the brushes. Can't hurt to have a spare starter motor if that is not the issue.
  23. If you have a FFinder that shows your weights on the screen , there is no need for a depth counter . The screen doesn't lie , and it's more accurate than your counter with or without blowback.
  24. 300 RPMs is pretty close , switching the props is all I can think of .None of the 4 boats that I have owned with dual engines had the same top RPMs .Always off a couple hundred RPMs. That's all I got .
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