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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. Yes , buy a ducer that is compatible with the FF . One that has the same number of "pins " or wires . Then buy a Airmar inline cable splice kit .Part # IP 67-10 waterproof connector ,not sure about the hyphen in that number . Ebay is where i bought mine , was 28.00 back a few years , 9/20. Cut the cable ,preferably in a dry , out of the elements location and install the splice connector. It's a pretty sturdy easy to hook up the wires , professional looking connector. No soldering required , good wire stripper and small screwdriver that's it . Or cut your current cable , attach the new cable to it , tape zip ties ,whatever you can come up with . You want it to be as small in diameter as possible and pull it back to the head unit . That's providing the cable isn't zipped tied to something to prevent the connector of the new cable from passing through. Sometimes you can just grab the cable down the line and pull it back and forth and not feel any resistance. If the MFG installed it , it may be secured somewhere. A dealer or someone else , probably not .
  2. ^^^ , BulletBob yes ,135.00 per hour is on the cheap side, especially for a Marina . Yes they mark items up ,just like auto repair shops , been like that forever. You could bring your own parts in and they will just charge you labor . It's frowned upon and the repair shop will not be responsible for any of your parts warranty or fitting, working properly . Sometimes it cost you more bringing your own parts in , and if they don't fit or work , that's $$$ on you .You are forgetting the shops overhead in your analysis. Everyone knows , Insurance has gone up , what do you think a commercial business pays for that ? Workman's compensation, unemployment comp . , heating cost , electricity, 401K , health insurance, real estate taxes , school taxes , office supplies, office help , service writer , paying a mechanic 30- 35.00 per hour ( Going rate at most garages ) and I'm sure a handful of other things that cut into your actual profit . So a business owner is not sticking 1500.00 into his pocket for one days work .
  3. First off , the OPs question should of been before the work was done ,not after . Not any different than someone buying a boat ,then asking if he got a good deal . Secondly, labor rates in the car industry are anywhere from 150 to 200.00 per hour , how does that translate to the marine rate ,which is usually higher . Thirdly we don't know what the exact parts are ,or what they cost . People should ask these forums BEFORE , not after , the work is done or boat is bought , the ship has left the port at this point .
  4. MichiganMotorz , has the rebuilt L6 for 2899.00 . Probably the cheapest and quickest drop in replacement. A local engine shop might be another option , they are usually busy now ,car racing season, so be prepared to wait if you go that route .
  5. Inboard or I/0 , some people don't know the difference. Straight inboards are easy to work on , extremely reliable and you should get 4 - 6,000 hours out of one that is maintained. They are quiet when trolling , using about a gallon to the hour and typically 1 .2 ---1.6 mpg on a 28-30' rig . That is there big downfall ,along with not being able to trim the bow up as your drive shaft is permanently in a fixed position, so a I/O with the same power and hull will trim out to a much faster speed . The extra weight of the engines low in the hull will mitigate the rocking if in the ditch .I/Os are situated higher up and many ,not all will have a dog house to contend with . Or your deck is sitting a foot or so higher from the water than a inboard model , if it's a flush deck making it a bit harder to handle fish and raising your center of gravity ,,, more rocking . Not going to find many outboard cruisers in that length unless you go newer , like a Parker or a CC . I personally don't like fishing around the outboards vs a clean transom , to each his own .
  6. Where did you buy the battery ? Direct from the mfg . ? It may have a dead cell , the charger recognizes that and won't try to charge it . Not sure if your saying the charger has 10-30- 50- 90 - 100 settings and if so how that translates to the battery being charged . Any possibility that you can post picture of charger ,or make and model so we can google it to see exactly what you're dealing with . Same thing with the battery ,make ,model , may help us figure your dilemma out .
  7. Most newer battery chargers , like the last decade , will have a setting for the particular type of battery ,lead , lithium, deep cycle are usually what's listed . If it doesn't have that option it more than likely is for lead batteries ,not lithium.
  8. Extremely hard to read your post . If I understand what you wrote , my first question , is the charger set up to charge various types of batteries , including Lithium Ion ? If so do you have set in that mode ? What other types of batteries did the charger work on ? Do you have a battery load tester or can you go to a auto repair shop and have it tested along with that shop looking at your charger to make sure it is the correct one for you .
  9. **** load of variables, from how hard it's blowing and for how long to how close you are to the source of the currents . If your within 10-20 miles of say the Niagara River dumping into O , it would never affect the deep current . Your by Rochester and it's been blowing hard for a week it may shift the current a bit . Then you have different levels of where the current might start ,say at 50' or maybe 100' if your on the fringe of the main current channel . Current is going to be a lot stronger near the source or outflow ,like Oswego than it will be in the area of the center of it . I'm not a marine hydroligist and could be way off in my take on your question .
  10. Does the oil smell like gear oil , there is a distinct difference between engine oil and gear oil . If it's gear oil and seemingly coming from the bellows you have a bad upper seal on the input shaft on the outdrive . If it's engine oil , it's coming out the engines exhaust and you probably have valve seals , piston rings going south . I agree with Chinook on the pressure testing if it's 90 wt gear oil on the ground .
  11. Those in-line 6s are bulletproof. Hammer it down ,trim it out and take note of the RPMs . That's the only way to know if you're propped correctly. The only thing I would do is swap it out to a electronic ignition , as in no points ,if it hasn't already been done .
  12. Well , you never opened it up and wonder why you're only getting 12 mph ? Seriously ? You could be right below the speed where the boat gets up on a plane and all you're doing is pushing water . Your tach , should be 1 - 200 RPMs ( with your normal load and gas level ) under the Mfg rated ones , which is usually marked on the valve cover , if you're propped correctly. No , pulling the prop is not going to allow you to count gear teeth. You have to pull the outdrive , mark both the drive shaft and prop shaft , spin the drive shaft 365 and note how many times the prop shaft turns with one turn of the drive shaft . Doesn't have to be precise , but should give you a ballpark figure of the gear ratio. Report back after you take it out , run it at WOT and trim the outdrive up to just below where it starts to cavitate . You'll feel or hear the RPMs going up at that point . Going to need the RPM numbers from that test ride . Yes ,3900 - 4300 rpms is the rating , 4100 + would be the sweet spot , below 3900 means you are lugging the engine , working it to death . Generally they try to have you running a 17 -19 pitch prop , so the drives are all geared for that .
  13. What size is the new prop vs the old one ? How many RPMs are you getting at WOT ? Are you 100% sure the outdrives are the same ratio ? As in you've spun the prop / prop drive shaft and counted the rotations to at least get a idea that they are the same ratio ?
  14. Bleach also destroys the threading in the fabric seams ,be careful with chlorox .
  15. What outdrive is on it ? OMC have not been made in decades ,parts are not always easy to find like a Mercruiser over the counter part . Cobra engines I've been told are not that desirable for the same reason . The hull itself ,without seeing if it has a doghouse or the motor is under the deck , isn't something I would be looking at for a fishing boat . Can it be done , yes , bit probably wont be a comfortable boat to fish out of . Where are you mounting the tracks ,downriggers, rod holders etc is something to consider . Boat reg number indicates it's a S Carolina boat ,salt or fresh water ? Stringers and transom need to be verified as solid . Your looking at a 35 year old boat with no knowledge of how its been stored over the years .
  16. Fin on lower unit is supposedly designed to keep your boat on a plane at a lower speed . Not to help you get on plane . I don't believe in them ,especially for the size of your boat . If they were the " answer " they would of been integrated into all lower units decades ago . I would pull that off , nothing but drag in your case . Lowering your pitch will NOT negatively affect your top speed , should increase it . Do the math , 21 " prop X 3800 rpm will get you how many inches you traveled ( no prop slip figured in ) Now multiply 19" X 4600 rpms . Not having your exact numbers ,just using this as a example. Your engine is constantly lugging ( wearing out the engine ) right now , know matter the speed and burning more fuel in the process . SS props will be a tad more efficient as the blades don't flex like aluminum will , so less prop slip . Drawback is , you hit something at cruising speed and the prop shaft takes the brunt of the hit , vs the " give " in aluminum. 4 blade will have less slip , smidgen less top end ( drag of extra blade ) and slightly lift the stern of the boat . Probably your best bet if you're constantly leaving port with a full load .
  17. Check with Yankee Troller ,he has the goods .
  18. Trolling bags will settle it down in the ditch . I use G2 outfitters , there bags IMHO are best ones out there . Probably going to need them if you have fuel injected engines , as they have a ECM that controls your idle rpms vs a carburetor that you can adjust .
  19. Actually it mostly depends on the exhaust manifolds risers height in relation to the exhaust height on the transom itself . The higher the riser or engine itself in relation to the transom or corner exhaust the better . Water ingestion mostly ,not always ,happens when you come off the throttles quickly , the exhaust flapper is still open , the water comes rushing up to the transom and into the exhaust pipe and is forced into the riser then the exhaust valve itself . I've never personally heard of that happening when trolling ,even in rough seas as the engine flappers are burping off and on along with the engine not breathing hard . I could be wrong ,but that's my understanding with what I've read and heard of this issue .
  20. Not a owner ,have fished on a Pursuit . Excellent boat , similar to a Tiara but designed more for the fisherman than the wife . As in less cabin and more platform . Probably comes with a big block , 454 - 502 and velvet drives , both bullit proof .Engine bay is usually tight in them ,but workable . I would look it over with a fine tooth comb , make a offer based on it passing a survey by a accredited one , ASME / SAMS , I think are the two that are , which you will need in most cases for insurance . If the survey finds anything that $ amount to get it repaired can be taken off the offer sheet , if discussed beforehand .
  21. I believe this was a topic last year in mid January and a lot of people got all excited about it .... Yep , Erie froze shortly thereafter. The more things change the more they remain the same . I wouldn't get worked up until February.....
  22. The narrower the beam the easier it cuts through the water . Ever notice the " Cigarette " type hulls , designed like that for a reason. Now when your trolling they rock way to much for my liking . Don't even think about putting it in the ditch . Most CCs are wet boats as in only the guy behind the console escapes being soaked in any sort of conditions, exception being flat calm.
  23. I hope that after 3 years he resolved that issue , like shortly thereafter, as in days
  24. One deep cycle battery should run electronics and riggers all day long , if not a few days , without having to be charged. Electronics are all state of the art, low draw . Riggers are basically windshield wiper motors that you might run up and down 5- 10 times a day IMHO . They don't draw a ton of juice either . If your worried a solar charger might help , as we do get sunshine that time of the year , spring and summer .
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