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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. The water border is now open for fishing the Canadian side. Still need a Province of Ontario license, you cannot touch there shore ,anchor or contact another vessel.
  2. FYI , according to the picture posted of the HIN , the boat is a 1991.
  3. Might want to research inject a deck , for the money they want and all the holes you have to drill , the deck looks like swiss cheeses when your done . And it really has not removed the rotten wood ,all it does is solidify it ,not strengthen it. A few pros to it and a lot of cons according to the research I did before doing mine the right way.
  4. Mark off the area with a square if possible. Take a circular saw and adjust the cutting depth to a 1/4" or so. Cut the top deck off ,which will leave the bad wood exposed . Do not cut below your wood core , the underlying fiberglass should not be cut. Remove all wood that has been compromised. New wood is put in with fiberglass resin or similar material. You may be able to put the skin you removed back on to the repaired section or you may have to glass over the repair. Rustoleum makes a deck paint and a non slip additive that can be bought at Loew's. Paint on or cover repair area with Seadek ,Marine Mat or whatever you come up with if you don't want to paint it. Non slip works great . You can also Google or You Tube for more info.
  5. Is this your projected report or a vision you had ? 9/5. of this year or are you just getting around to reporting last years results? Dang ,I was giving him a hard time and he goes and corrects the date. Back to the Future ,fire up the flux capacitor and get out on O .
  6. You may want to tell your friend that 7- 10% of the capacity is unusable fuel. Gauge may read a bit less than1/4 and you can be running on fumes. Depends on pick up location , how far it is off the bottom and running angle.
  7. Might have to Google metal fabricating shops or suppliers ,don't know what area you live in .
  8. If you can get at the tank ,get the dimensions, Google the mathematical formula to get capacity in gallons. Useable fuel will be less , about 7-10 % of your tanks capacity cannot be picked up.
  9. You should also ask what is the disadvantage. Cost , usually about 4 times as much. Hitting a rock, you may end up with a bent prop shaft $$ as there is no give compared to aluminum which would take the brunt of the hit. Top speed is within 1 maybe 2 mph but who drives around wide open ? Cruising speed may go up by .5 mph. Probably take quite a few years to recuperate the extra cost to make up for it in any fuel savings from the minuscule difference in prop slip and with a new quality aluminum prop there might not even be a difference. If I was a bit tight on cash I would lean towards using that 5-600 for gear. Deeper pockets and mainly using it where I know I am not smacking bottom I would buy a SS. The one I run on a 15' speedboat I can feel a slight difference in it being smoother when idling out . May be better quality control or they balance them.better. So you have a few things to consider.
  10. I would invest in two trolling bags ,allows you to bump your throttle a bit in most cases,thus reducing fouling along with better steering , settles the boat right down/ reduces rocking in any direction. No affiliation, I have the small and medium from G2outfitters.com. Best bags I have seen on the water .
  11. If no one replies, I would contact the DMV or maybe try Google .
  12. Some Charter Captains have more than a 6 pack license and can take 7 out. I personally wouldn't want to be on that . You would be lucky to get up more than once if you were number 7 in line.
  13. X 2 on the 5.7 , exact block . The only thing might be getting your throttle controls parallel and you might be under pitched a little bit on that side. If you think.your going to be replacing the other engine in the next few years then yes go that route. If not then I might stick with the 5.0s if I was happy with my current cruise and or top end speed.
  14. Aluminum tubing and a two piece aluminum top. .That's what's on my 27 and the 28.i had as well. Trust me lighter is better unless your hull is over 28' or so.
  15. MichiganMotorz.com would be my choice. I have heard so many mixed reviews on Jaspers that I would not use them. I am sure they have sold quite a few that has no issues. Friend recently picked up two 502s from them , Michigan, and is extremely happy with the outcome.
  16. No on the life expectancy comment , 5500 hours is near the end of its duty cycle. Could it make it to 6-8,000 hours , maybe ,but it would be the 1 in a million and at this point everything is wearing out ,bearings ,caps , valves ,springs, rings ,cylinders and on and on. So I would listen to people that say your near the end , didn't say you were at the end like Tall Tails replied . My "inexperience" with motors is having owned inboard boats for the last 45 years and have had about 5 rebuilt during that time . Yes oil was changed religiously and the boats are never beat or run much ,if at all , above cruising.speed which is around 3,000 RPM. Again I said your nearing the end , not your at the end and it's going to let go tomorrow.
  17. Unfortunately your nearing the end of the life cycle on the engine @ 5500 hours. I think I would try to get what I could out of the setup and start looking for a suitable boat. Problem as I see it is , you dump 6-8 grand minimum into it and a month after you dunk it , the motor let's go. Now take the insurance money ,the 4,000 to rebuild or buy another engine and all the other incidentals and buy a newer used boat with 1/4 or less the hours than you have on your engine now and I think you will be better served going this route
  18. No insurance ? If it was me I would use some plexi glass for the windows. I would consider taking the boat to a auto body shop , have em sand out the blisters and then paint that side. WEFCO makes the rubber rub rails see how it looks after that to see if you want to do anything with the canvas or use it until you have the funds for a upgrade. Rubber for windshield is a common Auto parts/ West Marine/ Ebay thing . Your damage appears to be cosmetic . It's a fishing boat ,not dock queen, if I made the above repairs I would use it until the engine let go or I just wanted to go bigger
  19. You make the deal , put a deposit down and this is based on it passing the survey. Doesn't pass ,complete refund , something wrong, you either negotiate it to your liking or walk. Get it in writting.
  20. There should be a tag hanging off it ,engraved on the top of the tank or a metal tag attached to it with your capacity. If it's for example 50 gallons, maybe 43 of it is useable and consider when making long runs. There is also a mathematical formula, Google it , W x H x L ÷ by Y = fuel capacity or something like that. Trying to be real accurate take a spare 5 gallon can and run the tank until its dry , put the 5 in and figure that in when you fill it up.
  21. My last 3 boats were all straight inboards with closed cooling. Still running the 1987 and 1995 with absolutely zero issues bc of salt water. As noted th only thing you may want to change are the risers, depending on when they were changed last. Most closed systems run coolant through the exhaust manifolds. Outboard's if properly maintained ,flushed and stored or raised out of the water generally are trouble free bc of salt as well. Sometimes if the hardware is breaking down you may see some rust stains running from some chrome parts, never had that on any of my 3 but have noticed it on some salt hulls. Never any wiring issues or corrosion on connections .I would buy my next boat from salt again in a heartbeat if the price was right ,all based on passing a survey.
  22. Have you tried Googling your issue with maybe engine/generator make info. That's all I got , good luck !
  23. For less than a 100 .00 you can buy a Garmin FF with GPS .
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