Bozeman Bob

Bleach also destroys the threading in the fabric seams ,be careful with chlorox .

Spray 9 for everything boat related .

What outdrive is on it ? OMC have not been made in decades ,parts are not always easy to find like a Mercruiser over the counter part . Cobra engines I've been told are not that desirable for the same reason . The hull itself ,without seeing if it has a doghouse or the motor is under the deck , isn't something I would be looking at for a fishing boat . Can it be done , yes , bit probably wont be a comfortable boat to fish out of . Where are you mounting the tracks ,downriggers, rod holders etc is something to consider . Boat reg number indicates it's a S Carolina boat ,salt or fresh water ? Stringers and transom need to be verified as solid . Your looking at a 35 year old boat with no knowledge of how its been stored over the years .

Fin on lower unit is supposedly designed to keep your boat on a plane at a lower speed . Not to help you get on plane . I don't believe in them ,especially for the size of your boat . If they were the " answer " they would of been integrated into all lower units decades ago . I would pull that off , nothing but drag in your case . Lowering your pitch will NOT negatively affect your top speed , should increase it . Do the math , 21 " prop X 3800 rpm will get you how many inches you traveled ( no prop slip figured in ) Now multiply 19" X 4600 rpms . Not having your exact numbers ,just using this as a example. Your engine is constantly lugging ( wearing out the engine ) right now , know matter the speed and burning more fuel in the process . SS props will be a tad more efficient as the blades don't flex like aluminum will , so less prop slip . Drawback is , you hit something at cruising speed and the prop shaft takes the brunt of the hit , vs the " give " in aluminum. 4 blade will have less slip , smidgen less top end ( drag of extra blade ) and slightly lift the stern of the boat . Probably your best bet if you're constantly leaving port with a full load .

Check with Yankee Troller ,he has the goods .

Trolling bags will settle it down in the ditch . I use G2 outfitters , there bags IMHO are best ones out there . Probably going to need them if you have fuel injected engines , as they have a ECM that controls your idle rpms vs a carburetor that you can adjust .

Actually it mostly depends on the exhaust manifolds risers height in relation to the exhaust height on the transom itself . The higher the riser or engine itself in relation to the transom or corner exhaust the better . Water ingestion mostly ,not always ,happens when you come off the throttles quickly , the exhaust flapper is still open , the water comes rushing up to the transom and into the exhaust pipe and is forced into the riser then the exhaust valve itself . I've never personally heard of that happening when trolling ,even in rough seas as the engine flappers are burping off and on along with the engine not breathing hard . I could be wrong ,but that's my understanding with what I've read and heard of this issue .

I believe this was a topic last year in mid January and a lot of people got all excited about it .... Yep , Erie froze shortly thereafter. The more things change the more they remain the same . I wouldn't get worked up until February.....

The narrower the beam the easier it cuts through the water . Ever notice the " Cigarette " type hulls , designed like that for a reason. Now when your trolling they rock way to much for my liking . Don't even think about putting it in the ditch . Most CCs are wet boats as in only the guy behind the console escapes being soaked in any sort of conditions, exception being flat calm.

I hope that after 3 years he resolved that issue , like shortly thereafter, as in days

Should be able to see the outline . Doesn't affect high speed . Bolt on or flush professionally done job ,do it once ,do it right .

They work excellent, Tiaras have smallish rudders to begin with . Difference is night and day , figure around a grand to do them . The extension are welded on , that's the only way to do them . Highly recommended and would do it to just about any boat I owned to be used for trolling , especially with auto pilot .

Any pictures of the deck from the steering wheel back , including the dog house . Being a fishing site , that's the first thing to be looked at , not the cabin or head .

I do not care how many feet of cable are let out or what the downrigger line counter shows . In my case , when the ball shows up on the screen at whatever depth , I go by that reading . No geometry needed .

So when my FF shows 100' and it shows my weight at 100 , how come I'm hitting the bottom ? Must be a optical dillusion, dam I hate when that happens .

Do you have the dimensions of the cavity ?