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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. I've used them to get my leadcore deeper. I generally connect them where the leader attaches to the main line ... don't want to risk a fatigue break on the leadcore (or copper in your case) from the pinching clips. Used OR16 clips to attach them to the leader. This way you can take them off quickly (if needed), when you reel in a fish.
  2. Generally, I prefer meat rigs on the copper/weighted steel lines ... leave the spoons for the riggers, and flies on the wires.
  3. Agreed, 30 pound mono is what we used. Braid is useless, although I heard guys saying the 100 lb braid works ... line diameter is thick enough to make it hard for fleas to hold on ... haven't tried that myself though.
  4. You mean you have a twillie tip at the top, with normal line guides? What are the guides made of ... are they black or a chrome metallic finish?
  5. Dipsey divers will be your best bet. But you might want to also put a LARGE torpedo diver on a leadcore, off of a planer board to get depth and provide a different presentation.
  6. Oh sorry ... yeah, for sure I'd say colder = slower ... but also towards the end of the year, it's tough, but I'd generally start faster, because kings are striking out of aggression, rather than to feed, and we want more erratic presentations to trigger that bite.
  7. 2 mph to 3 mph, starting point 2.5 mph. Make some turns ... check if outside or inside lines get a hit. Outside means you need to speed up, inside means you need to slow down. Will change from spot to spot, as the under water currents change. Best to have down speed.
  8. None of those fish are chasing your lures ... when they chase, you'll see those arches stretch across the entire screen. Also note ... although the screen says the fish are under your ball ... they may not be ... the sonar scans out several feet on either side of your boat (how much depends on the water depth) .... those fish could easily be 10' away from left side of your boat, and the ball could be on the right side ... separation of 15' or maybe more. Even with that separation though ... the fish seem uninterested ... so here would be the game plan. MARK THAT SPOT ... especially where you see them stacked (your 2nd photo shows 5 or 6 fish). Turn around and go through that spot at several angles .... from north to south, south to north, east to west, west to east, NE to SW, etc. Just keep figure 8'ing it through that point ... the reason to change direction ... if there are any underwater currents, your bait will be going faster or slower through that current, even if you maintain a steady 2 mph GPS. Also, think about slowing down or speeding up by 0.2 to 0.3 mph. Also, change your presentation ... colors, lure type, etc. If you have multiple rods, use different colors and lures on each rod to minimize your time to test options. Keep going through that mark throwing a bunch of variables at them, and hopefully something works. If you find something that works, change all or most of your rods over to that presentation.
  9. Ever consider a handheld VHF (obviously waterproof), with DSC? If the boat goes down ... at least you can maintain comms via the handheld.
  10. Thank you ... what size is that 5 of diamonds? About 3"?
  11. Cool! Would be grateful to see some photos of some of the lures and stick baits you use, to get an ideas of pattern and SIZE,
  12. Dark we almost always focus on the glow ... those normally come in green colors, but honestly I don't think the color matters too much. When the light comes out ... color is dependent on a few things, I'd say the most important are (a) time of the year), and (b) depth you're placing the paddle in. I'll talk briefly about (b) depth. The theory is that fish see only certain colors at depth. Search up fish color spectrum ... and you'll see that certain colors completely disappear at 60' or deeper. Now in terms of (a), I find chartreuse works early in the season, then blues/silvers, then greens, then reds/oranges/purples towards the end of the summer. However, that isn't a steadfast rule ... you would start with those colors, but if you don't get bites, you would normally flip in a couple of different colors to see if something else is working that day. And then there's further complexity ... the color that worked between 7 am and 10 am may not work between 3 pm and 6 pm. So, it's good to still keep some different colors out there, and clue in on what the fish want at that moment in time.
  13. They each have their days and even times. To keep it simple ... UV needs sunlight ... so you probably won't use it much if it's cloudy, dark or you are deep in water. Instead you'll resort to glow. There are a few flashers and flies that are both glow and UV ... so they have both!
  14. We're going to be flying up to a pristine lake in Northern Ontario to target some walleye this year. I've never done walleye fishing ... but I got myself a nice rod and reel based on the advice of a few guys who have been doing this for years. Question is on lures, jig, etc recommendations. What is your go to for this stuff. I'm going to buy what the guys I'm travelling with tell me to buy ... but I thought maybe someone here has a secret weapon that they don't know about! Haha. Thanks for any advice guys!
  15. yeah, we also just put a 12" paddle on the line ... without terminal end tackle ... and let it all out, then wind it back in.
  16. One other thing to check is if the line on the reel is lined up perfectly with the line guide. When wire is tightened up ... say from a fish being on ... lots of tension. If the wire wasn't put on tight, or has a flexible backing (like mono) ... it will get out of sync with the line guide ... and that will cause a lot of friction.
  17. It totally depends on the time of the year. Early, chartreuse works well, and even blues/silvers. Then it goes to greens in mid summer. When they staging .... reds/purples, but greens are still good ... mainly aggressive colors though to get them to bite out of anger. Guys even go to erratic stick baits like Lyman plugs in the late bite ... try and get that angry bite!
  18. I don't like bouncing divers in the mud ... they get gunked up, and you end up with a messy lure. When that happens, we always pull the line and check the lure. Down riggers are different, as you can bounce the ball off the bottom ... but your line will be clipped 10 ft above the ball, so you know the lure is clearing the bottom.
  19. Always the same thing every year ... we get a taste for spring with a few nice days, and then we get dumped on and lose our minds ... winter is losing the battle folks ... we will have good weather soon. 19'C on Sunday!
  20. Inside can be standard or mag diver on 1 setting. Outside is generally a standard diver on 3 setting, gives good vertical and horizontal separation. Remember when you deploy a diver ... there's very little bite in the water ... so it tends to stay to the center of the boat and dives deeper (think if you just dropped a diver into the water without your boat moving .... it would sink straight down. Well, an almost similar thing happens when you deploy from a moving boat .... you are letting out line a little slower than the boat speed ... so it tends to sink almost straight down ... not quite ... just want to give you that right image ... so it's very important if the inside diver is already set in the water, to let that outside diver out VERY slow, so it does bite and pull to the side and away from the inside diver line).
  21. LOL, I was wondering about that subject title ...
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