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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. Note in your cable picture ... don't want to repeat, but for sure for a 12 lb weight that is WAY too much angle, your downspeed is definitely way too high. I wouldn't expect to see more than 20 to 30 degrees from a 12 lb weight. But note this ... you may see 20 degree into the water, but the cable then actually curves out (tending towards flat horizontal) the deeper and deeper it is in the water, so the overall angle is more than what your eyes can see. A 15 lb weight is obviously better .... but you really need to make sure your downrigger and gunwale can handle it ... over 12 lbs is getting into risky business. I've even seen gunwales flex with 12 lb weights ... wouldn't dare put 15 lbs on those boats. Doing the charter is a GREAT way to learn ... you will zero in on a lot, saving you lots of time and MONEY. I'm assuming you got yourself a good charter that can produce?
  2. I was going to say exactly that, those rods are definitely not loaded up enough ... needs way more curve ...
  3. Well, I sold my boat a few years back, but was definitely deep into it and all the techniques at the time, including participating (and placing) in tournaments (4th place was my highest finish in Tightlines). I preferred spoons over anything else on the riggers, often starting with glow patterns early in the morning, but also paying attention to spoon colors from spring to late summer (blues/chrome in spring, then moving to greens, then purples/reds/orange). I'd also put on some j plugs to get erratic action deep in the summer to entice staging kings. As the dusk diminished and the sun set in, I moved to spoons with UV in them. I have to say, NOTHING did better for me than my trusty 42nd spoon. On occasion, if I found spoons just weren't working, I switched to meat rigs (11" paddle, and a herring strip, or an MC Rocket). Sometimes that did the trick. A few of my buddies will add paddle and fly off the rigger ... but I normally reserved that combo for the wire divers. I also threw on a free slider on the rigger lines, to target fish higher in the water column ... normally got lots of hits from steelhead. As for your answer on walleye depths, yeah, that makes sense ... it's totally in range for leadcore. On Lake O in mid summer, you need your lines typically 60ft to 100 ft down ... cores just don't work (unless you put together a SWR ... short core off the rigger). You end up having to use copper, and by the time you let out 400 ft of copper, and another 100 ft of backing line ... you are playing with fire if you have more than two out there (one on each side).
  4. You can, but often times the riggers and wire divers work better ... so guys are focusing on those setups. The ACTUAL strategy is to create a pattern that draws the fish into the riggers (due to ball turbulence), if they don't take the rigger lines, they drop back and have a look at the diver lines, if they don't take that, they have a look at the copper lines further back (and stealthier). For walleye what depth are you normally targeting? I think guys get worried when they have 300 ft and 400 ft copper lines out on the boards ... we already see enough tangles (one is more than enough) with just two lines out, especially when a king takes it, and sweeps across from port to starboard (or vice versa). Can create one big mess really fast.
  5. 20 ft down for 100 ft out ... so 300 ft is getting you 60 ft down. You'll be running 2.2 to 2.8 mph ... the depth above is achieved more in the 2.2 to 2.5 mph range. Terminal tackle also impacts depth, a large paddle and meat rig will create more drag than say a clean spoon, and more drag "lifts" the line up so you lose depth. Anyhow, I'd say if you stick to 2.5 mph, you'll be in the 50 ft to 60 ft range with 300 ft of copper.
  6. I assume you've run an 8 rod spread before? It's one thing having the equipment, and another having the experience to deploy and retrieve and not end up spending half your day untangling lines. Assuming you have done this before ... for sure 2 downriggers, probably a cheater on one of them (to target steelhead), 4 dipseys wire divers, and 2 off the boards one on each side of the boat (depending on where the 42F to 48F depth is, it'll be either leadcore for shallower depths, and copper for deeper). If you haven't done 8 before, I'd probably cut 2 wire dipseys from the stage.
  7. As Misdirection says, the TOP of the fish arch is the actual depth of the fish (provided it's right underneath your boat and the fish is not off to the side of the boat). Now, your downrigger ... let's say the top of the fish arch is at 100 ft. You have to let out probably 130 ft to 140 ft of cable out to get 100 ft down. That is because of the drag on the line and weight which pushes it back away from your boat, and swings it up in the process. Your downrigger weight is further back from the boat than you think ... the only way to figure it out precisely is to have a depth measure like smart troll or fishhawk. The deeper it is, the worse it gets. As for using a spoon on your rigger, I would not use a paddle with a spoon ... it changes the action of the spoon a lot and takes away from what it was designed to do. I suggest running spoons clean with a 10 ft fluoro leader (20 lb).
  8. Oh, I also found that too long of a lead (I tried using 20 ft once) tended to tangle a lot more, especially if I wasn't careful retrieving the downrigger weight (brought it up too fast) ... I found the 6 ft was more forgiving, and even if it did tangle ... it wasn't a big issue to untangle,
  9. Depends on how well you put the wire on .... it should be tight as heck, otherwise you will have problems with misalignment of your wire guide and where it sits on the reel afterwards. Some guys put on the backing line and wire .... then go out with a big board on the line (no lure/hooks), let it all out, then reel it back in. Gets rid of line twist and also gets that wire back on tight. When I filled up a size 30 reel (or Oukuma 600) ... we had some braid backing, kind of enough to cover the entire base of the spool (maybe 1/8" deep), and after that, wire went on and filled it perfectly to the top.
  10. SHORT leader ... it should only be 6 ft long ... and when you drop it out, literally throw the lure out so it gets behind the main line.
  11. No issue at all. You're cheater line shouldn't be long ... 6 to 8 ft is more than enough.
  12. Put braid on as the backing, you'll get WAY more on the reel than mono. Having 300 yards of backing is nothing ... a big king will take that all out, no problem ... you ideally want at least 600 to 700 yards of backing.
  13. I heard they announced they will no longer be publishing those transects. It sucks, as that was good information to at least help devise a strategy.
  14. I wish I had the money to buy the right stuff at the beginning, instead of the wrong stuff 3 x over, before I spend the money anyhow and buy the right stuff.
  15. Sorry for your loss. No one can take away your good memories.
  16. Haha, they did deliver a tetanus shot too!
  17. OK good to know ... I was getting the (wrong) impression that there was something generally wrong with the overall fishery. Then river fishing hasn't been a blast ... so I was starting to freak that there is a problem, but in the end it just seems that the fish ran early due to the warmer weather and are all back in the lake ... which is perfectly okay for me.
  18. Nice kings! So is there or isn't there a problem with the fishery? (Just noting the concern on the other thread you guys are posting on).
  19. I got a hook deep in the palm of my hand once. We tried to push it through ... no go. Went to hospital, they did the string method ... no go. They tried to push it through ... no go. Somehow it was stuck in both directions ... so the only option was to make a small incision to get it out. It wasn't bad, they didn't even stitch the incision ... just a band aid.
  20. That's definitely not a brown, so my vote is an atlantic. Looks more like a rainbow than a brown, so that is the give away in my mind.
  21. Cool video! I guess that is "resting your case!" Check-mate.
  22. I put some electrical tape. Basically tie the braid around the spool once, make a knot, then apply one turn of electrical tape. You don't need many revolutions after that for the braid to bite down on itself and prevent spinning.
  23. I used mono once to back ... led to creep ... basically the mono stretches with enough wire out, then the wire position and guide end up not aligned, and you saw a hole through the line guide, plus puts a lot of stress on everything, sometimes it just stops coming out, if it gets bad enough. For this reason, I would suggest using braid backing ... it doesn't stretch, this way the way (position) it went on the reel, always stays aligned with the line guide. I don't recall having to put that much on though ... maybe 200' of braid ... I normally just made sure there was a good bed of braid on the spool, to cover the base completely. With that much on a size 30 reel, the spool was definitely full with 1000' on ... in some cases, too full (but that I might blame on not putting the wire on tight enough ... which is another problem you need to deal with ... keep that wire tight when spooling!),
  24. Nothing more to be said. I think overall fluoro is the better choice, and I try and keep it simple and stick with that.
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