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L&M is correct on the shift bellow having no factor on the gimbel getting water in, just wanted to mention the shift bellow, cause that cost me a return trip to the dock early one day!

There is a exhaust bellow which is the big one and then there is a smaller one on the shift cable,

this one is usually over looked and most of the time the problem, of you got it that far, I would replace the shift cable and both bellows plus all the seals that go in the lower end, not a bad time to replace lower water pump also, then your good to go for a couple of years.

I agree BSmaster, Canada is tough the lake limit is sometimes not what the prov. is, usually 2 fish less, that's why we said the hell with Canada and keep our money here in the states(Ohio&NewYork) But what I would like to see is more of the 75$ I pay for a licence go towards more walleye conservation, like a slot or more stocking, I fish the western basin of erie every spring and there is no place like it for walleye, there is no reason L.O. couldn't be the same. In the 80's it was much better than it is now, what happened? I hear stories about a farm that flooded out and put a lot of manure in the water (black river bay) I rember as a kid filling a legal ticket on opening day, How many can say that now a day's Just drifting around the red & green bouys. Then I hear about the gill netters (mid 90's) in the bay area somplace? Just seems to me it's time to make a move if you are a walleye fisherperson, Let's be heard, the trout guys made thier point!!! LORD have mercy if a salmon has a mark or a decline in population. then we hear about it!!! AM I right or WRONG!!

Just a example we had 8 guys leave the dock (ERIE) at 6am back at 11am with 8 full tickets 48 walleye in 5 hours. With all the structure and reefs and rocks in L.O. there is no reason L.O. can't be half as good as erie. Just my 2 cents, Love to fish for the eyes

Glad to see other people on this site feel the same way I do about NO ONE will share info about the walleye fishing. I was going to go with the PRO plan but with no one willing to share any thing about walleye I decided to back out, sad all the talk about salmon nothing about walleye. I belong to a web site (walleye.com) those guys will tell you anything you want to know.

LOL a steering wheel, what's that for????????????????

I watched them install a gimbal bearing in my boat and the only time a hammer was used was on the bearing tool they used to install the bearing it self they never hit on the bearing its self they lined up the hole in the bearing with the grease fitting used a alinment tool and good to go boat never sounded so good after the new bearing, no more growling noise or vibrating, sounds to me like they might of messed up the bearing? We install bearings all day long in our work and never used a hammer on a bearing!!!!

Glad you figured them out I had the same problem, I couldn't get them to lock, then I read the directions and reassembled them than they worked!!! Then I read where they were made, now what does a person that lives in a straw hut built in the sand, lives on water and rice know about a boat tie-down?(Just my thought)

Sorry to hear the bad news but I'm sure with x boat and yourself you will find a good 4 bolt main block and go from there Good luck guy's PAP

Hope you had a great birthday seasquirrel and may many fish come to your net!!!! tight lines to you PAP.

Have a great 30th B day Chad, I rember the good ol'days Nice pike also Tight lines to ya PAP.

I tried the the thinner trick with no luck, manifolds back on same problem, took them back off put air to them and they leaked, when the manifolds where cold they wouldn't leak when they where hot they leaked, air pressure will go where no liquid will go, so manifolds cold, air pressure is the way to go. When they pressure check heads they dont pour thinner in them. PAP

What I did to pressure check my manifolds is take a gasket and a piece of 2"x 5/16 inch steel and trace the out line of the gasket & the 4 bolt holes, drill the bolt holes out then use formagasket sealant on both sides of the gasket then bolt the steel over the gasket, I needed longer bolts and nuts to draw the steel tight against the exhaust ports let set till the sealant is cured, mean while make a plate for over where the riser bolts on useing a gasket and sealant 4 nuts& washers and put a c clamp in the center of the plate and tighten down in the center a little, let cure know drill a hole in the center of a exhaust port and tap threads into the steel to accept a air fitting screw the fitting into the port put 2 ballons on the end of the manifold where your water line goes on ad a little air, I used a gauge with a valve so I could see how much air pressure I was puttig to the manifold, and watch for the ballons to blow up if they blow up the manifold is cracked inside the box looking manifold is a header type exhaust chamber that is sealed from the water that surrounds the exhaust part and the water cools the manifold so it can be under cover and not get hot enough to catch the boat on fire, exhaust temp. out of the head is over 600 degrees exhaust temp!! so this is to cool down the exhaust manifold it's self I paid 350.00 per side for exhaust!! OUCH hope this helps PAP

A great rock band once said (ac/dc) bare wires cause fires!!!!

I have a 1982 mercruiser 350, and just went through all this BS. If the exhaust manifold is cracked or rusted through it will put water into the cylinder via the exhaust valve, then in to the piston, while the engine sits all the water in the cylinder runs past the first ring then the same for the second ring as the ring gaps are opposite the other then it sits on top of the oil ring and if the oil ring is wore, into the oil pan the water goes, with all this said, to do a quick check pull the plugs and spin the motor over and see if water flies out of a cylinder do one side then the other, if all this is happening the motor should run like sh#@$t to start with. With my motor I had water in the cylinders, fresh reman well known engine builder, bored .30 over new heads cam lifters rods you name it, it's new, then why the water in the holes? well the new heads where warped it took 10tous, to clean them up, they actually rocked when we set them on the block, who would think to check a pair of high performance heads brand NEW? SO what I'm saying is if your heads are warped you wouldn't have water in the oil. If your exhaust shutters are bad or even there, it is a good possibility you might be getting water in that way also, my riser gasket system is 1 fiber gasket 1 stainless steel plate with a small vent hole then a fiber gasket, if you back your boat in to fast or you are in rolling seas the water will go over the riser into #8 or #7 cylinder, the water will seep through the little vent hole in the steel plate and if you have the old log style exhaust manifold #8 cylinders are a strait shot into the head. Hope this helps as I had to learn the old way with my WALLET!!!!PAP.

Great days on the water with the old guys, can't get any better!!! good job guys!! give'r hell men, tight lines to all PAP.

If you want to support china, go ahead an buy that piece of $h!2 starter I had many of those starters in my shop, most of the time it wasn't the starter at all, most of the time it is bad pos. cable. There are no bearings in those starters, there are bushing in both ends, the comutater end has the brushes and brush holder in it, scribe a mark on the case & the end cap to make shure you put it together right, there is notches in the cap and in the case that will line up everything, the brushes will be a triangle shape and the end of the armature should be a flat surface, if it dished out and the brushes are less than a 1/4" thick replace the starter, not with a chinese on either!!!! go to your local rebuilder(starter&alt) or buy an oem unit, if every thing looks good than put it back together, this will take some cussing without the right tool to hold the brushes and springs back so you can put it over the armature. A little trick is to use a 4x4 inch piece of thin metal cut a 1/4 inch wide & about 2.5 deep cut in the center of metal put one brush & spring in at a time holding the metal down over brush repeat the same steps untill all brushes are under the tin and the slot in the middle and you can see the bushing hole, put assy. over armature hold down, pull out the tin and put your thru bolts in done deal. tight lines to all PAP

Are you leaking water to the inside or the out side of the motor, what motor do you have?

I had a simular problem with my motor did every thing you did,it ended up being 3 things,one was the exhaust risers were blocked, removed them cleaned them out the best I could, the marina I deal with said to cook them out with muratic acid only for 20 mins. the other things were my exhaust manifold was cracked and 3rd but not least was one of my exhaust shutter was tore and the exhaust from the port side was blowing the other side shut, so the starboard side wasn't letting the hot exhaust out of the manifold, or out at all. To check if it is your exhaust shutters, loosen up the hose clamps on the big rubber boot that connects the riser to the exhaust y pipe loosen them up from the riser, hook up water and then rev up motor if exhaust comes up along rubber boot then you have a blockage in the y pipe either a shutter fell down or one tore, they are located at the bottom of the y pipe or (exhaust pipe) the newer ones are located under the riser. Hope this helps. PAP

If you are running a Mando alt. then 14.6 is perfect, 12.5 is a fully charged battery,12.4 close enough, a starter does not know polarity, so your good there also, if all circuits were closed then you should be in good shape!!! The smoke, well I would inspect wires for a bubbled surface if you see any thing like that replace that wire, the bilge pump is a permenent magenet motor, which means no fields to burn up and the same for the trim motor which also means their are fully insulated, so you are good there also! if you have any questions just ask and I will try to help,I've been in the starter&alt business for 30 years PAP

Look's awsome, a lot of work but you will know your boat inside&out. I like the seats, I would like to see more pictures of the inside when you get that far, Keep plugging at it soon it will all come together. PAP

There is a difference in battery selector switches. One of them disconnects the alternator circuit before the battery circuit. This prevents the alternator from sensing no voltage and surging a lot of amps thereby destroying the diodes in the alternator. The diodes supply the DC current from the alternating current in the alternator supply.

BEGYMSKYTO NOW I'M CONFUSED~~~

Sounds to me like a fuel issue, when you position your weight differently it picks up the fuel and when it wont rev up the fuel is being restricted somehow, I would look at the fuel pick - up line inside the 5 or 6 gallon tank this new fuel might have turned your pick-up line into a gummy mess? or the lines on the tank to the motor might be cracked letting the carb, pull air instead of fuel. How's the primerbulb in the fuel line does it stay hard? if you squeez the primebulb does it rev up then, if it does then maybe the primer might be going bad. their are a few problems I ran into already, Hopefully this will help you, Tight lines to all PAP.

Like I posted earlyer the corrosion under the black covering will cause resistance, which will cause exsessive amp draw and in result will damage everything that needs 14 volts to operate correctly, a bad ground creates heat, heat is the worst enemy of all electrical conponents, since the man said it wiped his alt. out I would bet that the neg. side of the rectifyer blew a few diodes, which will cause the alt to lose amperage, but maintian the voltage, thus making the alt. work harder(more heat!) then finally start to blow diodes on the pos. rectifyer, resulting in a voltage spike of 16 -18 volts and then regulator failure, even with that high of voltage there will be little amperage, resulting in no damage to the neg post of battery, I would change the cable, new battery clean all the terms, make sure all the grounds are hooked up, I have 3 grounds on my boat one to the bell housing #2 wire 1 to the alt. 10 guage wire 1 goes to the main gang plug, make sure none of those wires have resistance in them, use battery cables with the ends crimped on!! I'll bet problem solved. Tight lines to all PAP

I would check your starter for excessive draw 250 amp or less, what could cause over draw is a bad connection being at the battery or the cable haveing corroision under the black covering or at the engine block itself, which could of wiped out the neg. side of the rectifyer in the alt. If your electrical system is searching for a ground it will take the path of least resistance, which would be a loose connection at the battery, the alt. wouldn't burn off the neg. post because it is grounded twice, if the alt lost it's ground or part of it's ground you would have noticed a voltage drop like 13.5 or 12.8 unlike the norm 14.2 volts. I would check all your grounds,clean them up, do not use a lock washer, just a flat washer and a new nut to make all the connections, a lock washer acts like a spring and with any corroision it will push your connection apart causing a bad connection, if you have any problems contact me as I will help anyone on this site if I can. 25 years self employed as a auto electric rebuilder F&F Starter & alternator . Tight lines to all PAP.

We have caught many eyes out at the last bouy Red & green bouy it's about 13 to 15 feet deep there, if the wind comes from the southwest it will drift you right up the channel there are humps and drop offs in this area where the walleye lay in these holes, it's only 7 to 5 feet deep as you drift towards the river, we drift up the red bouy side, there is usually less traffic over there till you catch a few then you will have lots of friends!We drift with worm harneses. I use #5 colarado blades (gold) with red beads the entire rig is 18 inches off a 2oz. bottom bouncer if nothing is happening there after a few drifts, we troll down the north shore towards pillier point, with the boards out 60ft each side with a mixed bag of worm riggs to stinger spoons to stick baits all different depths till one of the bag of tricks keeps fireing off then switch to whats working. I think this year we will be trolling the deeper waters as the warm spring has them spawned out already, weeks ago. hope this helps you out. Tight lines to all, Be safe PAP.