Bozeman Bob

Yes

Since no one has replied I will ask the obvious . Wood ,aluminum , fiberglass ,condition , any time frame and type .length  of boat ? A few more details may or may not help.

Most of the tournaments have eliminated using a observer this season.

In most cases ,not all , the engines are over propped a bit ,so adding a little hp isn't going to mean buying props , just puts it on the money. May even see a little higher cruise speed and better mpg. What's your max rated  rpms and what are you hitting at WOT ?  Time not a factor ,go local and ask the builder for recomendations on things like roller rockers vs stock and heads will have to be shaved ,so he should  / will make sure you have enough stock left for that to happen. Good luck !

They have not made the 3i8s since the late 80s ,so I don't think your going to buy a new one. ,especially 2 for 3600. Unless there short blocks which is a route I would not take. More like 3600 per engine ,longblock and rebuilt not " new " and maybe with a 2 year warranty, depending on who you buy it from. Personally I prefer having someone I know rebuild them . That way I know what was replaced ,what options I might have for any upgrades in durability and possible HP.  Buying online means you don't know for sure if oil pump , intake valves , lifter springs ,water pump ect have been replaced or they were in mfg specs and not replaced. If your in a hurry you may have to buy online since this is the busy season for most rebuild shops. I would ask and make sure the engine was put on a dyno to be broken in and checked for any oil ,water leaks before I dropped it back in the boat. Going from.a 2 to 4 barrel carb with a better tuned intake manifold may give you a extra 20-25 hours per engine . 

12 volt test light and start tracing from the switch back if no power at the switch. Switch forward if you have power there. Can't really tell from the wording in your post what exactly isn't getting power. Check all grounds as well , pretty basic .

Better off grounding it to the engine block ,or wherever your main battery is grounded to. I had a Cannon rigger that would not self stop at the waterline because the battery wasn't correctly grounded, worked fine after I did that.

Just out of curiosity what are you hauling on a single axle trailer that needs surge brakes  Or is the tow vehicle a small car ?

You might try opening the bleeder and just wait for gravity to do its thing. Just make sure the reservoir is always topped off and the cap should be off as well. Might take 5-10 minutes to get a constant flow going. Other option is a reverse power bleeder ,where your pumping fluid from.the bleeder to the reservoir. 

They (NAPA ,any auto parts store )  do sell 12 volt 10 ,20 , 30 amp circuit breakers that have spade terminals on them. Much easier to reset than replacing fuses ,some are auto reset as well.

^^^^^^ hahahaha Why this guy has not been blocked is beyond me

43 minutes ago, horsehunter said:

Just thinking out loud but I would figure any boat for sale for 2 years would have been looked at by enough people to have determine that there were problems and not worth wasting my time.

 

  Uhhh the reply above the one you replied to states it was sold two years ago.  As to why it wasn't marked as sold there may be a few reasons , from the OP was getting out of boating/fishing completely , didn't know how to close/edit in a "sold " on his ad , never visited this site or his listing after it was sold ,or just didn't care and wasn't getting any calls as the number he listed had too many digits.

Buy a new one .

4 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

I should think hanks advice should be the first and most straight forward thing to try before getting too far down the pike

OP just stated the sending units were different

I would get a infra red with laser light and compare the two engines over varying speeds. Had a burning smell we couldn't figure out , turned out to be the rubber hose coming off the exhaust manifold. The Temp gauge was always ok because it ran off the top of the intake manifold which was part of the closed cooling system. The exhaust was not part of that reading and the raw water elbow going into the manifold was blocked up with crud , the heat gun showed it.

1 hour ago, jimski2 said:

When a passenger becomes infected after being on your boat, does your insurance cover his medical costs? A good question for your insurance broker.

  How in the world is anyone going to prove where they got infected ? Gas pump ? Grocery store ? Pharmacy ? Family member? Moving your garbage can ? on and on .There are to many variables to prove where you actually caught it . Wouldn't be surprised if just about everyone gets it over the course of the next year or so.

Infrared Thermal  gun with laser light for taking temperature, just had it done to me at Dentist office.  Point at forehead ,pull trigger ,read temp and done in about 5 seconds.  50-75.00 sold everywhere. 

Call up or take it back to dealer , if mechanic is there let him walk you through what the problem is. 

www.airmar.com under technical then cross reference section there is a spread sheet with one of the headings -connector- under that you will see the numbers of pins . From what I can tell the 5 is for Garmin/Lowrance and Simrad. If it was me and I wanted to buy it I would call Airmar up with my make of FF and the model of the ducer  B60 -20  MM .They should be able to tell you if they offer adaptors and or splicing kits for what you might need.,The 20 reps the deadrise # of the hull you are putting it in , good for something like 10 to 20 * , [which is a common deadrise for most boats, [double check that figure.] Would not work on a flat bottom boat very well.

For what it's worth you can buy extensions for most mfg's finders that have the correct pin count , then pick up a Airmar splice kit and wire it in to your specific unit . If the 5 pin isn't what you have but would like a top of the line transducer.

Plug the charger in whenever you can. I would not rely on my engine ,especially a kicker , [which you don't have,] to charge my batteries. Deep cycle batteries like to be charged at a low amp rate , and if drained will take all night to get a complete charge.

I will take a wild guess ,the boat was listed in 2018 ,we are now in 2020 ,probably sold a long time ago.  He also list his number and wrote to message/ text him. So maybe anyone looking should try that route. 

If your talking about your Eisenglass, any upholstery/canvas shop should be able to do it.

2 hours ago, wicked walleye said:

So if I would have revved the boat up it would have perhaps pumped it through the system better or would it also have to be in gear and revved up?  Again, it's definately NOT how I'm going to rely on winterizing I was just basically curious as to if that impeller was working properly.  I already ordered a new kit to install here pretty soon.

 Yes [ to answer your question ]. you can rev it up in neutral , the impeller runs off the vertical shaft , which spins about the same speed as the motor ,depending on the upper gear reduction . The "bullet " or lower leg is where it engages in F N R , so the drive/impeller shaft is always moving in conjunction with your throttle regardless if your in gear or not. I would not go crazy reving it up, maybe in the 2,000 rpm range ,don't want to grenade the motor by redlining it.

11 hours ago, 1lastweekend said:

 

 

Wicked Walleye I have never trusted using muffs to fill my engine block and exh manifold with AF, because a boat moving through the water forces raw water up through the leg with much more pressure than sitting still with muffs on.  

   The impeller controls how much water goes through the leg , not " moving through the water ". You could tow a boat at 60 mph and if the boat/engine being towed was  idling no more water would go through the system than if it was docked and idling. The drive shaft which the impeller is connected to dictates how much and how fast water is pumped towards the block.You cannot push water past the blades of the impeller unless they are missing. Even then it would be minimal at best . Most ,if not all motors that overheat with rotted out impellers start to overheat when a load ,as in getting on a plane ,is put on them ,not when idling at the dock.