Bozeman Bob

I would upgrade to a Petronix system and lose the points. And use there coil , different ( ohms or resistance ) than what's on your engine now. Generally cleaning the points is a stop gap measure as the " plating" is now sanded off and pitting will soon follow. Also seems to improve starting and low speed , as in trolling , performance. 

7 hours ago, Trouthunter said:

The boat has a I/O so that is not a problem

 I also wondered, but not about the weight capacity  . There must be a load of some sort on the out drive.The pushing and or torque action of the prop comes to mind. Is the structural strength of Coosaboard the same relative to the thickness as plywood ? Didn't actually see that in there write up.  Plywood glued together with each sheet going in a opposite direction adds to the structural strength of it. Not sure if Coosa  has that property.  As mentioned the plywood worked for 20 years and that probably wasn't coated with a resin to make it more waterproof . Might want to research that ,anyway good luck !!

Just out of curiosity, how many people/ Charters target Wally's on O ? Now compare that to Erie . There is a obvious difference and reason. The numbers don't lie ,why shove this down our throats ?   Even NYS advertises differently for each Lake. Going to vote with my wallet.

11 minutes ago, jth21usa said:

 

wow that’s a lot of math. I guess if you have extended rudders on a boat I would love to know your experience. If you don’t I’ll ask for advise on the costs of boat ownership on another thread. Also 20 percent of $20000 isn’t $2000.

 

 

  Correct on the math , just got up and brain wasn't fully engaged . So you paid around 10,000 which puts my financial numbers more in perspective. Sorry to bother you with these figures on ownership after you brought it up with your 20% of "cost" and not answer your question to your liking , I did mention I have been on boats before and after the work had been done. So go ahead and cobble it ,done with this thread .

On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 8:44 PM, jth21usa said:

Do it right is about $2000, 20 percent of the cost of my boat, for rudders, also it’s pretty fun building stuff.

  Ok , so if you paid 20,000 for your boat and had to outfit it from scratch lets do the math . 3 average riggers = 1800.00 FishHawk 800.00 12' MFD 2500.00 Radar dome 1500.00 Electric Planner reels and boards 1200.00 Rigger and Dipsy Rods 1200. Copper and lead core rods 1200.00  Auto Pilot ,3000.00 Tackle which would include rigger weights , house battery, extra wiring for gear ,tracks and holders along with misc  nets Bogo grips.lures ,pliars ect   at least 1,000 . That puts us at 14,200 and we have not paid for the summer slip [2,000] , winter storage [700 ] , upkeep on the engines [min. 150 a year per engine ] Insurance 750.00  and good old gas ,500 gallons min on twin inboards @ 3.50 per = 1750 and that = 4675 per year  [min in my book ]  So your first year you spent 18100.00 vs the 20000.00 for the boat. You must have heard people saying the actual cost of the boat is sometimes the cheapest part of fishing . Might want to check with both places mentioned here for pricing if you have not already ,anyway good luck with your bolt on's !! 

How's the electrolysis with two dissimilar metals connected to each other under water ? I guess you can unhook your bonding  wires with this setup. Is there anymore drag created by overlapping the stock rudder with a wider piece of corrosion creating metal ?  How much time and money was needed vs having a professional upgrade done correctly ? With all the money you put into the sport , why cheap out on your steering setup ?  If I was looking at a boat to buy and it had the bolt on"s I would wonder what other short cuts were taken in the upkeep and then keep walking.  Do it once and do it right is how I like to roll.  But as stated above ,"don't listen to other ppl"  Although you did ask a question which might require listening to other people's advice.. So go ahead and do what you want it's your boat.

Quote

Rolmops

 Uhhh no I did not say it was a funnel. I did say THINK of it as a large funnel , there is a difference. It does slow the outflow as more water is trying to enter it and due to the shallow and  narrow entrance it backs up. Yes if it was a tunnel and had a max capacity it would be more pronounced. It is not . If that [ Roundhouse to  just below the International Train Bridge ] section was 3 times as wide and deep would Erie drain quicker and more water then enter Ontario ?

Let's keep current boy and girls , It has been rebranded as "climate catastrophe " ,trying to get more people believing with a more drastic phrase ! As far as more water in the upper lakes flooding Ontario , that has a minimal affect compared to the Dam on the STL River. Remove that and the water levels return to what Mother Nature wants. The upper Niagara River at Buffalo is a natural dam that slows down the outflow of Erie considerably. The extra water will eventually make it to O but at a greatly reduced rate. Just think of where the Niagara starts as a large funnel , as that is what it is . It slows down all the excess water and backs it up into Erie .  As far as helping or hindering the fishery , a certain Captain that post video reports on FB went into great detail about the water level and his belief was the higher level at this moment helps the fishery as new nutrients are added by virgin soil erosion. And yes it's a shame for anyone living or having a business on the shores

How about we replace the Kings with Bass , Lakers with Musky's and Browns with Sheepheads while were at it !  I have not observed or heard of anyone targeting Wally's on O from the Niagara river to Rochester. Do not know what happens from Rochester and East ,can't imagine it's a lot of people that target them. Def not going to rush out and buy Wally specific gear for this,  Do not think it's a good move , period.

Insurance Survey isn't as comprehensive as a "normal " survey. They do not inspect every nook and cranny. Usually it's more like a once over , like walking around a car ,not driving it and then saying it's worth  X amount even though you never got inside it to see if everything works , the engine and driveline isn't shot or putting it on a lift to see if the frame /unibody is solid ect.. Someone having a insurance survey is usually looking for a bigger number than what it might actually be worth and the surveyor is aware of this. Not saying they might artificially inflate the value but it is being done for the owner , not the buyer. I would say 95% of inboard engines always look like you could eat off them , so that doesn't mean anything ,it's what inside the engine and stringers that matters . .Having said all that I have never heard of a CC having any issues with stringers, layups ,through hull fittings , but someone mounting there own stuff and not sealing it correctly does happen. . Yes , have your own survey if it's over 10 -15 grand , which I am sure it is., being a CC. You can always agree on a price and even put a deposit down , based on it passing the survey ,happens all the time.

Not going to work , the water pressure will wreak havoc on the whole setup .Not going to be  "aerodynamic " no reason to cobble up your steering system and that's exactly what your talking about.. . Do it right and have it fabricated.... In the Introduce Yourself Forum with the heading of Welding and Fabrication is the name of a shop that has done this numerous times . have seen his work and been on a couple boats that have had it done and it is the shizzle compared to the stock rudder.

Might want to post this in the classifieds , a lot more people visit that section than this one. 

Lang's in North Tonawanda

Didn't say that boat had spider cracks , I said some have them , please read my post again. You are looking at the one that there asking 19,000 / 19,500 for ? Has about 3 or 4 pictures with one showing the buggy top on the aft deck  . The boat will not be a speed demon with the 5.7s , probably 20 -22 mph cruise and high 20's for top speed. You will get about 1 to 1.3 mpg at cruise and burn somewhere between 1.5 and 2 gallons per hour while trolling and no trolling bags should be needed.. That boat will get the job done regardless of how fast it goes. Ohio is not a far drive to look at a boat like that. Would be surprised if it wasn't a salt water boat at some point in it's life and that not a big deal with the inboards and a closed cooling system.

 Has been on the market for a couple months , might be able to low ball at 16-17000 if owner wants out for whatever reason bad enough at this time of the year.

  Looks like it's in great condition ,but there pictures. Some have cosmetic spider cracks on the gunwales and fore deck , not a deal breaker. Engine is a GM 350 marinized by Marine Power with closed cooling ,no worry there. Huge amounts of room in helm area to be able to get 6 + people out of the elements and not feel like sardines in a can. Working deck is big as well. Well laid out and handles the big stuff with no problems. Engines are fairly easy to work on and wiring is not a spaghetti mess. Do not think you can trailer it ,even with the buggy top off , it's probably going to be too high. Would have to measure it , and it's probably cheaper to drive it through the Welland Canal if you plan on bringing it to Ontario, then paying a hauler.

  I would Google it and/or  go to   thehulltruth.com and use there search icon. yachtsurvey.com did a survey on a 95 or 96 - 32 ,which is it's sister ship and gave it a very good review. [ There are two of the 32s in Wilson. ]  What I read was and that was up to debate is her listing at cruising and above speed. Nothing else really came up negative , except where they skipped quality in things like latches and not enough varnish on woodwork. Things that you can replace or update yourself. The meat and bones , fiberglass layup stringers ,engine mounts ects  is not where they cut corners and were all well  above average. Is this the one from Ohio ?

1 hour ago, jimski2 said:

Shoreline owners in Florida and New York City will soon be under water. Be wise where you invest your money.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Hahahahaha , why limit it to those two locations ? might as well say any land touching any Ocean /  Gulf  ?Fiord ect.,  Sorry can't buy into this left wing brainwashing . Anyway what does that have to do with Ontario's now semi annual flooding ? NOTHING.

35 minutes ago, bandrus1 said:

This is very informative. I was unaware the NYS Governor controlled lake Ontario levels

Andy controls everything, that's what control freaks do. If the NYS Governor doesn't have any pull in this game  I would be shocked. Yes there is the IJC.and they have to answer to someone up the food chain.  Doesn't get much higher than the Governor of NYS...Your sarcasm was noted.

  How does throwing 49 million at Orleans and Niagara county fix the problem ? It doesn't ,but The Commondant says it will !   Wonder where does this money come from ,let me take a wild guess , you and me ,the taxpayers. What a crock , and this is only the beginning as Andy loves the face time he gets on TV by opening his big pie hole. Water over the bulkheads /retaining walls and into the parking lots , how do you fix that ? Higher breakwalls and building up ALL the land from one end of O to the other including all the harbors and homes . Not going to fix all that for 500 million dollars. How about this Andy , drop the level of the lake starting now , in the fall and keep dumping it until it gets to where it's supposed to be ,you taxpayer thieving moron.. Ok , I am done with my rant on Fredo's loudmouth brother !

Yes you can buy a 3 way switch specifically for the bilge pump.. Auto /Off / On . Or it can be wired with a On/Off switch and then hard wired into the battery for the auto mode . Ebay has them.

 Well yeah , if the deck is below the waterline you will have a hard time draining it .Unless you want to drain the lake into the boat .. Yes two pumps would work and the pumps should be auto with a overriding switch so you can turn them on when needed and to get more water out. The auto floats usually kick off the pumps before they hit the point where there not working., leaving a bunch of water behind. Wonder what condition your transom and stringers are in if the deck is shot .

Where is your water line in relation to your deck. Hard to tell from picture, but I am guessing it may be almost even judging from where your out drive is and your deck is.

Yes you should have a water stop around the dog house. Something like a 1 -2 " high 2x2 surrounding the 3 sides should do the trick  waterproof of course.. Your two exit holes / tubes/PVC  should be at least  halfway  below the deck for drainage. If you cut the round hole,insert the PVC and used 3m 4200 to seal it you could then put a rubber flapper on the outside slightly extended  end of it to keep water from entering. You will have to drill a hole in the bottom for your water. Intake that would enter through a check valve set up. Vinyl on the floor might be a bit slippery when wet or worse in the spring when it's almost icy.

Most,  if not all boats that run them have a gutter of some sort on the aft deck. The water runs off into the gutter then out the scupper hole that is located in the transom at least 2-4" above the waterline. A through hull fitting with a shut off valve is where the water comes from. Personally if I had to drain the water into the bilge I wouldn't install a wash down pump.  If I had carpet on the deck I wouldn't bother , just asking for a rotten deck in the near future. .. 5 gallon bucket and let it fly if my boat didn't meet the above criteria.. Install the switch on the dash , the pumps have a built in switch/pressure regulator that turns the pump on when you hit the trigger on the nozzle.as long as you have voltage going to it ,hence the switch on the dash.  Need more info on the deck of the boat to give a accurate assessment..