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Posts posted by FishingFool34
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Were you the only other boat out there with me on 7/14 in the evening? Wasn't a very pleasant trip with the conditions. We fished 5-8 ended up 0/3 losing all 3 on the way in almost certainly due to the "2ft or less" conditions predicted that were prolly closer to 2-4ft conditions.
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23 hours ago, nickihoyboy said:
OK guys, this has probably been asked a thousand times already, but what knot do you recommend to connect SS wire to the reel arbor? It’s my understanding that no backing is necessary with 1000’ of wire on the correct size reel (30 series?) but I may be off base. I’d like to hear what you guys think.
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app
Backing is necessary! 100yds of 25lb mono then your 1000ft of wire will fill a 30 size Okuma reel. Check the spooling chart at the top of this section of the forum.
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Pretty simple paint scheme. Couple rattle cans and some painters tape and you could make that same pattern yourself in prolly 10 mins. Just find the same style dodger and sand the paint off, prolly be easier than finding that exact dodger.
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1 hour ago, bigted said:
Thanks for the input so far.
We're running big boards (not inline) so letting them running further back the chute before sending them outside the dipsies is not an option. It could well be an issue of having them get into each other while turning, as we never realize they are tangled until we retrieve one or the other. (board line or dipsy) As I said, it's not happening all the time so there has to be some other X-factor at play. Maybe current ?
If we run the copper out without the dipsy deployed, they do NOT tangle. We run our boards out far enough to keep them outside the dipsies IMHO. We thought changing to a "2" setting as opposed to a "3" on dipsies would fix things, as the dipsies run straighter down (and closer to the boat), but as I said it happened again anyway.
They are too close together depth-wise or you're trying to run a deeper copper over top of a shallower dipsey. Your deepest setups should be closest to the boat with the shallowest the furthest away. Set your dipseys deeper or run shorter coppers. Or there is something wrong with your dipseys and they aren't diving to where you think they are (loose/broken ring, loose weight?).
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9 hours ago, Hachimo said:
Sounds odd to me. I always put my dipseys out first then riggers then send a copper or two off each side on inline boards. Never had an issue. Is it possible maybe u were turning a little when letting out the copper? Definitely sounds like a mess. Especially with a FF
When I initially start I do boards then dipsey then riggers, always seemed to work well. But if I get a fish on a board I've never had issues getting the boards out over my dipsey lines. I use inline boards as well, when deploying them I will free line them way down the center before I engage the drag and swing them over to their respective sides. Only thing I can think of for the OP issue is if the dipsey and copper are both running at a similar depth you could have issues while deploying. My board lines are usually my highest lines so I don't have issues going over deeper setups like dipseys.
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36 minutes ago, Offshore IV said:
Agreed with the above. We hand lined a few in Friday morning. I know everyone claims 30# big game repels them but that just hasn’t been my experience.
Same here, I get piles of them on my 30lb BG line. With the wire it's pretty easy to slap the water with the line or grab a clump and "saw" them off using the thin wire. 30lb mono is just a pita. Might look into 40lb or try the sea flea line, not impressed with 30lb. -
Rain, T-storms, scattered fish and deep temps.
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Check the parts diagrams for your model (need serial number) and see where or if it is supposed to be hooked up.
https://www.crowleymarine.com/2/Mercury-Outboard/2006.cfm -
No problems other than it's prolly a little shorter than what most ppl use for leader. I run 20-25ft personally but 10 is better than 0.
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Bottom jaw and I only have 3-4ft of rope, just enough to submerge the fish. I don't want it long as sometimes I need to lean over and steady the fish so I don't drag it upside down.
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2 minutes ago, Captsmate said:
So your thinking earlier?
Depends on where you're fishing out of, but personally I would come late July/August. There should be fish to catch out of any port at that time.
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2 minutes ago, Captsmate said:
Hows the second week of september for say kings browns trolling lake.
That's salmon staging time, means lots of boat traffic, picky fish, and likely some fish already gone in the river. Also means larger fish, in a smaller area, closer to shore... pros and cons to that time of year.
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If going with Garmin you will want the 93 series which comes with Lakevu maps where the 94 series comes with ocean maps. For HBird you're looking at the Helix 7/9, if you walleye fish you maybe interested in SI/DI or even MEGA SI/DI depending on how much you use the imaging. For Ontario trolling imaging isn't really needed. You can save money and go with the 7" version of either but I would recommend staying with the 9" if you plan to use imaging. Garmin comes with better maps from the factory imo but HB has the better imaging capabilities.
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Usually you run dodgers at slower speeds than you do for flashers. That being said, flashers are more speed tolerant than dodgers. So if you were to try and run the two at the same time I would suggest to try running in the dodgers speed range which is like 1.7-2.0. But personally I would run one or the other, dodgers below 2.0 and flashers above 2.0.
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You can go ahead and start splicing!
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What's your budget?
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Download the Navionics app on your phone, just as good if not better maps than you will find on most mapping cards.
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There's no "turning on" an e-chip... all it is, is a small metal ball that hits some kind of microchip crystal as it spins and is supposed to give off a small electrical impulse. I've never seen any flasher with something that needed to be charged before. Could have been a UV light they were using to charge the glow paint on the flasher? They make lighted flashers as well but I think they just use small watch batteries.
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Brand new unopened Chefman 6 Tray Dehydrator.
https://chefman.com/product/6-tray-food-dehydrator/
pickup only in Rome
$80
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4 hours ago, pieman9155 said:
i see now not going to be nice out . now i see how much weather changes
Sunday may be alright but Saturday is a no go for sure. I wouldn't go out in my 24ft boat in what they are calling for Saturday just fyi. -
Daiwa Wilderness and Shimano TDR are other options to consider well under $50 each. I run the Daiwa Wilderness 9'0 MH as a wire diver rod and it works great.
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This kit is for a Yamaha F9.9 2003-2007, F15 1998-2006, T9.9 2005-2007, p/n 120-1080-00... This ended up being the wrong kit for my kicker and I am unable to return it as I didn't realize it was wrong until I opened it. I realize this is a super specific part and will likely sit here for a long time. But maybe at some point someone will need it so if this ad is still open I still have it. $100 shipped.
http://static.garmin.com/pumac/Cylinder_Yamaha_Many.pdf -
Do your riggers have the auto-stop feature? If so and you change to braid you will lose the auto-stop and have to manually hold the switch up to retrieve your weights.
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Lots of good companies out there make meat rigs, it's more of a personal preference thing on what brand to go with. I personally like to run larger flashers with my meat rigs vs the standard FF setup, anything from 10"-13" for a flasher. I have used Herring and Alewife strips and both have worked well, I'm not familiar with sawbellies so I can't compare them.
OSWEGO 7/14 7/15
in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
Posted
Wingers are downrigger weights with "wings" on them. They are meant to deflect out to the sides to stay away from inside riggers.