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FishingFool34

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Posts posted by FishingFool34

  1. 15 hours ago, Offshore IV said:

    Yep before I started fishing, I went on a charter with a friend out of oz and he recommended putting a small piece of herring on the fly. Doesn’t effect spin and is hidden by the skirt. I’ve never not used meat on my flies

    Well that's interesting, I've literally never heard of anyone doing that before. You learn something new everyday I guess, appreciate the explanation! 

  2. 4 hours ago, Offshore IV said:

    Gf and I went out around 4, almost no one else out. Started at 80 but didn’t get any marks. Set rods out at 100 and at 115 good marks showed up. Headed all the way out to 250’ before turning and heading in via trolling. Once we got to 65’ the screen lit up in all areas. Of course by then it was 9:30 and I was reeling up. We went 4/6, all small. One legal fish. White meat rig with white flasher took 3. Rest on green flasher fly combos with meat on them. 90’ and 65’ rigger dominated the spread. Very typical early salmon season outing for me. It was a beautiful night and the sunset was perfect. The biting flies have returned unfortunately. There were some jokers jetskiing way out in the 200’ water lol good luck hope this helps


    Flasher fly combo with meat on them? Can't say I've ever heard of that before... could you explain?

  3. going from a 3 blade to a 4 blade is roughly the equivalent of dropping 1" of pitch. With such a wide range of max rpms and the fact you're over revving even with that wide of a range. I'd would guess you could likely go to a 4 blade and still go up an inch or two in pitch. I just put a 16p 4 blade on my boat so I know there are 16p 4 blades available (mine was a 15x16p). Goodluck

  4. I went with a 26"x34" with the 4-7ft handle and coated net and it's perfect size imo. I got mine from Fishusa… says they are backordered right now though. Likely a Covid related issue, I doubt a fishing net company was considered essential so they likely have not been in production for the past few months. If you're not in a hurry Fishusa is usually pretty good about notifying you when something is back in stock if you sign up for their backorder alert.

  5. There used to be Water Wolf cameras but I'm pretty sure they went out of business. Those had no cable but recorded video internally and you could watch it later. Now there is the Go Fish Camera system, they supposedly can be trolled. Again I believe this records and then you can transfer and view on your phone after. The ice fishing systems with cables you're talking about are for live real-time viewing. If that's what you're looking for I don't believe there is anything out that can do that wirelessly underwater.

  6. 4 hours ago, Luckydogie said:

    Thanks for your help, I,ll try those techniques.

    I have a pair of plastic fish grips that I use for releasing fish. I tie the grips to a piece of rope and drag the fish along side of the side of the boat. I only do this if it was an extended fight or I had trouble getting the hooks out. 1-2 mins along the side of the boat is usually enough to bring most of them back. Normally if everything went well, I use the "torpedo" technique as we call it and toss them back in head first. I also avoid taking pics or holding them vertically by the gills if we are going to release them.

  7. You're already at one of the best places to find recent fishing reports, second to only a buddy who was just out yesterday. There are reports out of just about every port on the south shore posted frequently on LOU. At minimum it will give you an idea of where to start. Read the reports, think about what the winds did between that report and when you go out and adjust accordingly. Cover as much of the water column as you can until you figure out where they are biting. For me knowing temp is important but I think the biggest advantage of the fishawk is down speed. My first 2 years I fished without one and just used GPS speed. Now that I have a fishawk I see how crazy different downspeed vs GPS speed can be and why I had days I only caught lakers and other days why I got skunked.

  8. 1 hour ago, cuttermag1 said:

    Planning a trip next year the week before Memorial Day to Wilson. Plan on pulling our 27' Baha from Mexico. Looking for advice on marinas to dock the boat and lodging. Any help would be appreciated.

    I just did this exact thing on Memorial Day Weekend except we went to Olcott. There are a couple places in Olcott you can rent that come with a slip included in the rental (which is what we did). I found the place through Airbnb and I think we paid $150/night for the place we stayed in. Transient docks at the Newfane Marina in Olcott were $1.25/ft/night so figure $30 of that $150/night is for your dock and you're down to $120 for a cottage/house. You can barely get a hotel room for that and we had an entire house basically in the marina with our boat parked 50ft away.  There are a lot more rentals in Olcott compared to Wilson and it's only a 10-15 min boat ride to Wilson. Fishing was off the charts while we were there too, can't wait to go back next year!

  9. you could try adding a snubber to help absorb some of the impact while dropping the ball. Losing autostop means that the rigger will reel the ball all the way to the boom and keep reeling until you manually stop it. You're also gonna have to deal with fleas come summertime and they love to stick to braided line. Personally I wouldn't switch my riggers to braid because of the reasons mentioned above, but I have never had the issues you're describing. Goodluck

  10. 03 Yamaha F9.9ELRB, Had issues with it not starting and getting gas in the oil at the end of last year. Turns out that issue was the fuel pump, replaced that this year and it would start and run well, but it was a PITA to get started. So I pulled the carb, cleaned it and now it starts up super easy. Well now my issue comes when I go to shut it down, if I drop it into neutral after running for any length of time, it slowly revs up while in neutral. It revs up to the point I have to shut it down and restart it because I'm afraid to shift it back into gear at such high rpms and risk braking something. Sometimes I can get it to drop back to normal idle rpms if manually rev it up while in neutral. I also notice a good amount fuel in the water after it's shutdown. Any suggestions

  11. Let me be the first to say it... east is least, west is best as far as wind and fishing goes. That is pretty much a consensus lake wide. I’m sure someone can elaborate on reasoning as I’m not 100% sure of the science behind it.

     

    This is a perfect  time for this topic to come up though. After strong east winds the past few days going into very fishable conditions for a holiday weekend.

  12. 8 minutes ago, guffins fisherman said:

    One thing I have always wondered about hydraulic steering on the main engine and trolling with a kicker. I assume there must be some form of hydraulic pump to move the Seastar cylinder. I, maybe falsely also assume the pump is powered by the big engine. If someone is using just the kicker, how does the Seastar get it's power to steer? Maybe a stupid question.

    Sent from my moto z3 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
     

    If you have full hydraulic steering the steering wheel is basically the pump (pump is mounted behind the helm and operated by you turning the wheel). You're thinking of power assist steering where its cable back to a pump run by the engine. No engine on, no power steering. Not the case with full hydraulic steering.

  13. I would think you could justify "professional services" in phase 2 to include charters... I know that "professional services" includes barbershops and salons. If you can go get your haircut, I would say you should be able to go out on a charter. There's no way to list every single professional service individually, but anything a barbershop can do as far as sanitizing/cleaning/social distancing a charter could do just as well if not better.

    • Like 1
  14. On 5/10/2020 at 7:00 AM, Brad Hoffee said:

    9.9 Pro Kicker is on stand in garage instead of on boat. Have to purchase controls for it. A couple other questions that I could use some help with. What brand/ type of auxiliary steering control bar works best to connect to main motor and how long. Lots of options out there hard know where to start.

    Second question is the fuel. Can I just splice a t into the fuel line going to the main motor?

    Want to get on boat as soon as possible but also hope not to get stuck with boat out of water too long.


    Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app


    EZ steer tie bar is what the majority of ppl use to connect the two motors. My old boat had the kicker mounted on the transom right next to my main and I was able to use the much cheaper panther aux steering bar with no issues.

    For fuel your best and prolly easiest setup is to tie into your fuel/water separator, these are usually dual in/dual out units so no need for a 'T' or 'Y' valve. 

  15. 14 hours ago, Jomat said:

    Hey guys....was looking for an adjustable release to use with braid that would allow me to trip the board when running a multi board spread or just hooked into a big fish with inlines.  Read some good things about the sam’s pro release and picked some up.  Been trying a few different things with them but I can’t get them to consistently trip.  Anybody have any advice on these?  Which direction to rig (nipple forward vs nipple backward)?  Wrapping line from the top vs wrapping from the bottom?  Btw currently I have them hard mounted (no split ring) to church walleye boards with tattle flags.  Thanks in advance for any help....also if anyone has some other release method really dialed in for braid let me know!

     

    I rig mine exactly like in this video. Every once and awhile I will get one that doesn't trip but for the most part it works as advertised. The only thing I do different is I double wrap the line in the rear clip, little extra security to not lose the board.
     

     

  16. So I’m considering getting TR-1 system. The new garmin reactor kicker AP isn’t compatible with my kicker so that’s out of the question. I know the TR-1 is discontinued but that has lead to some really good pricing on it. Core pack is $1200, it was over $1800 this time last year. I do have some questions for anyone that has experience with it. I have an ez steer setup now and was curious if I would have to remove the bar to run this? Does the system had enough power to move the  kicker and the io if they are connected? I know a Lot of ppl use an AP system on their main engine and ez steer to the kicker that does the pushing. Curious if I could do the reverse, al I’d like to be able to turn the AP off and hand steer with the wheel if I wanted to. Which wouldn’t be possible unless I could leave the ez steer connected.

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