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FishingFool34

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About FishingFool34

  • Birthday 01/05/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rome, NY
  • Interests
    FISHING!
  • Home Port
    Mexico
  • Boat Name
    Copperhead

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  1. FishingFool34

    No Answer

    I think I chimed in on your other thread talking about kicker AP, so I won't get into that as others have mirrored what I said already. I emailed Garmin maybe 2 weeks ago asking about the Reactor 40 Kicker AP, they answered my email in less than 24hrs. Their site is a little tricky when it comes to asking for support but here is a link to the page I emailed them through (click on the email tab on the bottom right side, for serial number I just put 1). Try that or just call them. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?partNumber=010-00705-94&tab=topics&topicTag=region_setup
  2. Depends on what you're fishing for. For salmon you really don't need any imaging or even CHIRP for that matter. Walleye/Bass fishing on the other hand, imaging and CHIRP are much more useful. Brand-wise it's basically a ford/chevy/dodge debate, people like what they like because they just do. I like Humminbird because it's what I have always had and am comfortable using them. Some feel the same way about Lowrance. Simrad, Raymarine, Garmin are other big name names that make really good units and likely have one that will do whatever you're looking to do.
  3. Yeah that is what people call a twinkie rig. Beads and toothpicks or I've seen some where they just a crimp.
  4. That would be my choice as well, no hydraulic lines or pumps to deal with. Just make sure you get the Reactor 40 system specifically designed for use with a kicker motor. Depending on your electronics setup you can skip the GHC display, save $300 and connect it to your sonar via NMEA 2000 network. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/672710/pn/010-00705-95
  5. Not sure of the steering setup on your main (hydraulic, power assist, mechanical?) do you need to have the big motor running for the auto pilot to be able to steer it? If not why don't you just connect the main and kicker with an EZ steer setup? Save you thousands of dollars to not have to buy another AP unit. Then you just let the AP on the main steer the kicker via the EZ steer rod. I know Yankee mentioned the Lowrance Outboard AP but I don't think that is meant for a small kicker motor. Only options for dedicated kicker AP that I know of are the two Garmin units I mention above.
  6. Nope, they both control the throttle the exact same way, a small servo motor with a linkage to the throttle. The differences between the two units are the remotes and couple extra features of the trollmaster. Either unit will have a model to work on just about any kicker, the only thing that changes is the mounting bracket and linkage rod.
  7. Only options for kicker AP that I know of are Garmin. The TR-1 Gold which is now discontinued (but you can still find them) and the Compact Reactor 40 which is the replacement for the TR-1. Compatible kicker options are limited on the new CR-40 system so it depends on what year your kicker is.
  8. There's a few different options depending on your budget and list of features you want/need. iTroll, Trollmaster and ControllKing. Personally I have only used the control king and haven't had any major issues. The one time I had to call them because my servo motor went bad they gave me the part number and said I could order it through them or pick up one and my nearest radio shack and gave me the p/n to find it at radio shack. The man I spoke to was the owner of the company and extremely helpful. Control King being the most basic, with a simple wired dial to control speed. Trollmaster is mid range, with a wireless option and a few more bells and whistles. iTroll is top of the line with multiple different pre-programmed modes and tons of options.
  9. Pretty sure what you're describing is exactly the same thing my Mag 5HS riggers do. I always assumed it was normal? You hit up on switch and it starts raising them, then you hit down to stop them otherwise it keeps reeling up. If you have auto-stop on your riggers I don't see how this is avoidable. Once you hit up on the switch it activates the auto-up/auto-stop feature which keeps reeling in until the circuit is broken at the surface.
  10. I've never had a trailer inspected in my life and have never had any issues or even been asked about it before.
  11. I went with option 3 myself. Along with changing engine and lower unit oil on main and the kicker. Also made sure to get washdown/livewell pump, both fish box pumps, and water tank. Also gave the boat a good wash and quick wax, fingers crossed everything turns out alright!
  12. I wouldn't leave your top up, snow can get heavy and possibly bend/break your poles. I would take the cover off and out of the boat. Build a A-frame and tarp it up tight.
  13. Solid boat in your price range. Deep enough for the big lake, they make swing-a-way trailer tongue kits you can install that will save you an extra foot or two and maybe fit in the garage.
  14. Interesting, can't say I've had the same results. I've been running the ML wilderness rods for 2 years now with no issues. I also run the 9' MH wilderness rods on my wire dipsey setups and haven't had any issues with those either. My only complaint really is that the 8' ML seem closer to a M than ML imo, but other than that they work fine.
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