Miss em

There is no movement between the copper and the Spro swivel. That knot will last the life of your copper setup. We're talking decades here. The mono knot and backing knot should get retied once in a while. The backing knot we use now is a loop type knot that we tie with the actual loop a couple feet long so you have a length of doubled backing to hook your release to. Works really well. I'll see if I can find a picture of the loop know we use. The shrink tube over the swivel will add to the overall diameter and would make it tougher to get through most Okuma level winds. Shrink tube on the end of the haywire twist is not a bad idea at all. Just my $.02.

No problem. There are some rod building tutorials on mudhole.com if you wanted to give it a try yourself. Probably need around $50 in materials (guides, finish, electric rod turner) to get started but makes for a fun hobby.

You won't be able to just get the finish off. Cut through the thread and the finish over the foot if the guide with a sharp knife. Remove what you have loosened up. At the end of your cut, pull off the remainng thread that is in contact with the blank. If the finish is old enough, you can usually flick off any remaining finish with your fingernail. If it is stuck to the blank, just carefully scrape it off with your knife or razor blade. Any knicks in the blanks finish will be covered up when you re-wrap. I have redone quite a few rods for guys, but it is labor intensive and I have to charge more than what you can buy a new low end rod for. The one's that I have redone were on obsolete blanks that they guys really liked and couldn't replace.

Looking for side or dual console, preferably 10 years old or newer with 4 stroke power.

Captain Ernie's are home made. Probably could just just upsize most any good home made board recipe. I went to the triple Riveria boards the last two years and they will tow a couple of long coppers without any problems.

Bucks1,

FYI

Repowered boat and have a pair of 1985 2.5 Litre V-6 OMC Sea Drives. These are 205 HP big block OMC's on a bracket. They are complete, everything is there, and two sets of props, all upgrades and spare parts included. They have 175 hours on motors, one on rebuild other on new powerhead, compression is perfect.

They could be used for parts for most OMC V-6's I believe 200HP, etc, they are 25" shaft lower units. They are on crates and ready to ship. Asking $2500 for the pair plus shipping. Worth that in parts alone.

email [email protected] or (218)390-4522.

kdawg, sent you a PM

FYI, I believe a saw two different pairs of that motor for sale on glanger. I think John from Opti Tackle was selling a set and Hondacat from Calumet Marine had a pair for sale as well. Just wanted to mention it as an option.

FWIW, I bought a power head from these guys 3 years ago that has worked flawlessly. http://boatmotorrecyclers.com/

Not sure yet Garry. We are keeping our powder dry for now and looking for the right deal. Should be fun!

The Sewing Place in Phoenix did the work. I had the original frame but everything else he did.

All I am saying is that my stator is an inch or so away from the block, not in direct contact with the cooling water like my rectifier is. I guess if the whole business under the cowel is hotter than the stator would be too, so I can see your point also.

When I cooked my stator, I had only turned off the battery switch off by mistake for a couple of seconds but about ten minutes later we were without power. Could have been a coincidence but I have always read to never turn off a battery switch on a running engine.

Couple of thoughts from personal experience. If you are charging your batteries with the kicker, make sure all the connections and cables are good to the batteries. If that charge doesn't have anyplace to go it can heat up the electrical components. Also. if there is a battery switch involved, don't ever turn the switch to off while the kicker is running and trying to charge. The cooling water on my engine doesn't really go anywhere near the stator on my engine.

bump - picture added

1987 Sportcraft 205 Fisherman

1.6l OMC Sea Drive – new powerhead and lower unit in 2007

Magictilt Galvanized trailer with new stainless disk brake kit installed in 2006

3 Big Jon riggers with new motors in 2007

Garmin 240 Fishfinder

Standard Horizon GPS

Standard Horizon VHF

Rocket Launcher with 8 holders and cockpit lights

New steering, throttle, and shift cables in 2008

New shift/throttle control in 2008

New custom tackle storage center in 2008

CD player

Dual Batteries w/ switch

Asking $6k email [email protected] for pictures or more info. Sea trials available.

You need to keep some tension on a dipsy when you let it out. If you don't, it will free fall and spin, wrapping your leader around the mainline.

I have had great luck with my Cannon. Love the actual depth and light intensity reading. You can really fine tune your lure selection with the light intensity.

I have an extra cord from a newer Cannon model. The power cord and antenna lead goes into one plug. Looks like maybe 7 pin though? If you think it will work you are welcome to it.

We run a larger swivel on the liberator end to add weight, which helps it slide down the line. To release the liberator against the rod tip, you have to grab the line ahead of the reel and give it a pull. When running the liberators on anything less than 15# line we reach up and release the liberator by hand.

Our experience is that the dropper weight enhances the dodger action on the rod tip. There are some videos of thumper rod actions and setups on the Fish doctor site.

Sent you guys a PM

Rick,

I use one of the Kodak models you are looking at in the 10 mp and the 7 mp version. I like them both a lot. I'll send you a couple photos that I took with the 10 mp. Tough to beat the Nikons that Chromeslayer uses too.

I would check your paddle wheel. Sounds like something is rubbing to make it not work at low speeds.

Anybody got any of the old ones they can part with? New ones are a different finish that is way to shiny. Looking for the old ones with the darker tarnished look.

Try the new Penn GT lne counters. Trust me. In my opinion, they will make all other line counters obsolete.