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rusty1034

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Posts posted by rusty1034

  1. One more thing make sure it has a 150 on it.


    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United



    I’m gonna disagree on the 150.

    I had a 2006 196 Fishmaster that I loved. It had a 115 4 stroke that would push the boat at 32mph, and would troll down to 1.8 mph with out bags.

    Now I have a 2012 196 Fishmaster with a 150 and a 9.9 kicker. The boat is so stern heavy that I have to fill the bow livewell just to get the bow down enough to,track semi-straight. The oversized prop on this motor contributes to its lack of proper performance. Going back to a 17” prop is on the list.

    I’m not in a race, and I’m not trying to pull anyone up on skis. The smaller motor makes the boat much more efficient, and user friendly.

    Rusty


    Thanks- Rusty
    • Like 2
  2. Thanks Alumacraft and Hank. I went patiently through the dockside wizard.

    When the motor turned starboard, and the screen asked “ did the rudder turn port? “ ,I selected “no”.

    The next screen ( which I never noticed before) asked “did it turn starboard”. I selected yes.

    SIMPLE !

    It seems to work correctly now. Thanks to the help from all y’all.

    Hopefully I’ll have a fish picture to show soon !

    Rusty




    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

    • Like 1
  3. I changed the setting to “ Calibration lock = off”. I did a factory reset, and then towedthe boat around on the trailer for 20 min. That got the Compass deviation down to 9, which is pretty good.

    The issue now is that during the portion of the Dockside Wizard (3.5), titled ‘Checking the rudder drive’, in which the unit is supposed to turn the rudder port and then starboard.

    During this test it first asks “did the rudder turn to the port ?”. As far as I can tell, the ‘ rudder’ ,meaning the outboard motor ,turns to the starboard (right side of the boat if I’m facing the bow).

    I guess it’s time for post on the Raymarine tech forum.

    Thanks for all the help.






    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

  4. Thanks Brian and Frogger,

     

    The killer with this is that it’s not a new install. It was put in by Hank in either ‘17 or ‘16. A beautiful job I might add

     

    The unit was working great until a couple of weeks ago when the positive connection to the battery became loose enough for the unit to loose power.

     

    I will check the compass, but I’m pretty sure that hasn’t moved. Since the unit worked well prior to it loosing power, I’m of the belief that the compass is in an acceptable location.

     

    The gray computer box is mounted in the glove box. When I looked yesterday, it appeared as if the green light was not on. I dismounted the Wall it was attached to so that I could access the wiring and check voltage. The multimeter says everything is getting the proper juice. After getting a better look at the light on the Grey box, I could see that it was on.

     

    I did a factory reset , dockside wizard and sea trail yesterday while on the water. The unit wouldn’t ‘linearize’. 90 mins on the water, lots of turns etc. I even went so far as to leave the unit on while I trailered the boat home, still showing not lineraized.

     

    I did a compass restart, It reads "Max deviation =188*

     

    When I check the "compass deviation indicator" as per directions, it reads "---". According to directions that means that linearization has not successfully completed yet.

     

    After looking at some notes I took regarding the settings of the unit, I see that -

     

    Compass lock = off

    Calibration lock = on

     

    Perhaps the calibration lock is the issue. I'll let you know.

     

    Thanks again- Rusty

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

     

  5. Thanks dawg. That reading was across the fuse holder with the fuse removed. I didn’t test the fuse other than a visual check- looks good.

    After looking closely, I can see the blinking red and green LED light on the control unit. It’s much more dim than I would have thought.

    Right now I’m going to say it is user error for not all of the 74 settings correct. Perhaps I should say it’s Raymarine error for not publishing a user friendly manual.

    Heading back to the water now.

    Thanks again for the help

    Rusty


    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

    • Like 1
  6. What is it doing or not doing?  I currently have the same unit on my boat.  


    The pump is working and the display is working. When I am under power and switch to the auto mode, it will not hold course, and turns hard starboard.

    I did some googling and it appears as if there is supposed to be a green l e d light on the grey box controller unit. There is no green light on mine.

    I checked the 10a fuse inside the controller box- looks good. I tested voltage to the box, just under 13v. When I test voltage across the internal fuse holder- 9.9v.

    Thanks for asking




    Rusty
  7.   Do you know if it’s for the kicker or the main and what was the cost?? Hopefully you could shed a little as to what model you used. I was hoping to find one that I didn’t have to run via a sonar unit. Thanks for any help.

     

     

    Pap,

     

    Here is a pix of the components in the EV 100.

     

    IMG_0049.thumb.PNG.19275ab30353231a5075892a0be8f1b7.PNG

     

    The gray “Raymarine” control box is mounted in my glove box. The round disc is mounted near the bow of my boat, inside, exposed to the sky. It acts as the “antenna “. The display unit is mounted near my helm. It is used to control the unit. Mine is set to display a compass heading in degrees. The other piece is the hydraulic pump. It is hooked into the hydraulic lines that are used to turn the main motor. My kicker is attached by a rod to the main.

     

    The one on my boat is not connected to my sonar or gps (Hummingbird). I simply use it to go in a straight line. Making turns using the unit is done by turning the knob on the display unit.

     

    I think they are about $1300 for the full assembly. I paid about $600 to have it installed.

     

    If I had to do it again, I would have bought the EV 150, but they weren’t available when I bought mine. The 150 has a larger hydraulic pump. The 100 works fine for me, but I’m a “bigger is better” kind of guy.

     

    If your near Watertown, come and take a look at the one on my boat.

     

    Rusty

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

     

  8. I see in another thread you have the ev100.  Dont you have to have your big motor running in order for the power steering to work?  


    That’s a good question, probably Hank from L&M can answer it better than I. I do believe there is a hydraulic pump that is included with the Raymarine unit. They come in different sizes. The one I use works when the main motor is shut off, and the kicker is on. Great unit for the solo fisherman.

    The Raymarine can also be connected to a certain brand of GPS unit, not sure which one. By connecting it to the GPS, you can troll in several different ‘patterns’, S pattern, figure eight, circle, to various waypoints, pretty robust unit. I just use it to go in a straight line while I’m setting gear, or am fortunate enough to have to reel in a fish.




    Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  9. What style did you go with??

    Sorry Pap, I don't know anything about the TR1. I had a Raymarine EV100 autopilot installed on my Starcraft - I love it. I do a lot of solo fishing.

    Good luck.


    Rusty
  10. I just had a Raymarine EV150 autopilot installed by Hank on my 2018 Fishmaster 210 and he did a flawless job and very neat and clean with his install. He is extremely busy, but if you need repairs or equipment installed give him a shout...he is a great guy!  


    Ditto. He did my Raymarine autopilot last year on a Fishmaster. Quality work.


    Thanks- Rusty
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