rolmops

The Boatworks store in east syracuse recommended a product called Gluvit for some seal/rivet leaks.

I did and it worked on the Lilboat.

Its pretty easy to use too.

Good luck with your fix.

I did some reading on Gluvit and I like the idea. Can you please describe how you used it and what problems, if any, you had while applying it?

Thanks,Cornelis.

My information is from the dealer where I bought my humminbird 3 years ago. Obviously I was misinformed.

the humminbird sonars and the Airmar transducers do not work well together at all.First of all,humminbird does not use the 50KHz frequency,but also, the airmar uses a bit more power than the humminbird and it is known to blow the humminbirds.If you want a through hull transducer,stick with a humminbird.

I have used my X4 and my Humminbird quad beam 575 which uses 3 different frequencies together and there has never been a problem.The 575 and the 957C use the same frequencies. The X4 uses a 70 KHz frequency while the Humminbird quadbeams use 200kHz,83KHz and 455KHz,so there is no worry about 50KHz. Just don't put the 2 triducers side by side.My triducers are about 3 foot apart on the transom.

I repaired some leaks in my 1961 Duratech (The same type as used by the CIA in the Bay Of Pigs incident) by getting an oversized piece of fairly heavy aluminum plating and instead of using rivets I used stainless steel truss headed phillips bolts with one side dipped in M5200 and on the inside of the boat nuts(with nylon inside)and washers.Using these bolts you can literally replace every rivet on your boat and repair every leak caused by old rivets.I squirted some M5200 on the plate that I "riveted" over the cracks and today 10 years later it still holds just fine.

Too much to mention,but it is probably several paychecks yearly.

Nope, doesn't work at all, don't even bother trying, waste of time, total waste of time

Yes it absolutely works, IMO the limiting factor is sticks generally need to be trolled slower than most spoons to run properly, certainly slower than the effective range of NK's. You can run spoons like evil eyes, michigan stingers, R&R's etc. that run effectively at slower speeds in the same spread with sticks, but NK's will just hang there lifeless at stickbait speeds.

Tim

Does that mean that stick baits are a better lure for lakers, since usually we troll at a slower speed for lakers?

The weather forecast at the southern end of the fingerlakes is a lot more predictable than it is on Lake Ontario.

If you read about 15 or 20 knot winds from the north or north-west,you can count on 4 to 5 foot waves on the south end of those lakes while the north end is quiet.If the wind comes from the south,the farther north you go on the lake the bigger the waves,while the south end is quiet.Right now the wind is from the north-west and it blows at 30 to 40 knots,that would mean 10 footers or worse at the south end of the lakes

I am sorry to see the damage to your home, Hank. It is good that nobody got hurt. It is nothing to laugh about.

Installing and building your own electric planer boards does not have to be expensive. If you look at the link at the bottom of my post you can see how LOU members built their own planer boards and masts.

In order to power the reels on these home made masts you have to buy a few electric car window motors and attach them to the reels on your mast, then just wire them into your dash board for easy control.

another great and cheap improvement for planer boards is a simple piece of rope with a shower curtain ring.the ring goes around the planer board line and the rope goes to the window next to the dash.whenever you want to re-attach your lines to to planer board line ,just pull on that rope and you will have the planer board line within easy reach without having to leave the steering wheel. I first saw this simple idea on Glen's Spoonfed and I have been grateful ever since.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9906

Ask them to start the engine. If they offer to start it but do not put it in a barrel or put any muffs on,then do not buy.

Apart from that, even if it runs on the muffs do insist on a compression test and bring your own compression gauge. Also,insist on them opening up the lower oil fill up plug in the lower unit. If the oil is milky there is water in the oil if there is no oil or the screws are loose then there is a problem with the lower unit,which will need repair.

If the compression is good, everything else checks out, and it runs well you will have made a very good deal.

Here is a website that will help many 9.9 and 15 horse owners.

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/J ... 9.9_15.htm

For that sort of money you can probably get a decent 16 foot Starcraft. If you hang a 50 horse 2 cylinder or sixty 3 cylinder outboard on it you should be able to fish and ski. Do not buy the 69-70 and 71 Johnson/Evinrude engines.They have gear shift systems that are very expensive to repair.The mid seventies to mid eighties engines in that class are very good.

Whatever decision you make,enjoy the boat that you end up with!!

The compression numbers do worry me a bit, but they do not really show enough of a pressure drop to suspect a blown cylinder.I would take the head of and check out if the spark plug hole threads are stripped and whether the cylinder is shiny and clean,because that would point to a bad gasket or maybe a slightly warped head.Then take the head and lay it on a glass plate.This will enable you to see if it is warped or not.when the head is off,you will be able to see if the cylinder walls are scoured and how badly.If just slightly they can be honed(Bill Mayer does that and he has all your replacement parts). I would replace the rings in that case.After all that ,do a new compression test.If you are within specs at this point use it in good health. If not ,you should think about boring out the cylinder and replacing the piston and bearings. With the engine open I would replace all the seals and bearings that you can get to.

Good luck.

I just purchased a Penn GTI super level wind from Pike Hunter and I want to fill it with copper line.

My first thought is 30# test copper wire, but then I saw that A-Tom-Mik only sells the 45# test material.

Why does A-Tom-Mik sell the 45# but not the 30# material and does 600 feet of 45# fit on a 340 GTI or must it be 30 pound test, which is available, but not from Tom.

thank you,Cornelis.

The one you can't figure out is called a "stearns".It is just a factory name .It is available for roughly $25 at Gander Mountain. Normally the kicker would be on the other side of the main engine and the bar would be connected to the end of the steering cable.I suspect that in your case somebody drilled a hole in the bottom cowling and bolted the ball lock in there.

The other one (on the back of the engines) is an EZsteer,which is a far better system to use. On the bar there is a small stud with a plastic cap on top of it. Remove the cap and inside you will find an Allen bolt. When you loosen that bolt just a tiny bit you will find that the inner and outer parts of the bar will slide and thereby adjust to whatever angle is needed for things to work out .My guess is that the previous owner first bought a stearns and then changed to an EZsteer and you ended up with both when you bought the boat. Just stick to the EZsteer and you will be alright.

It sounds like you might be the right person to rebuild this engine.

You probably do not have to rebuild the engine.If all it needs is starter fluid to get going it is in fine shape for its age.

The first piece of advice I can give you is to stop using starter fluid.You are dealing with a 2 stroke engine and they need oil while running.Starter fluid has none of that.Instead,get a spray bottle (Windex type)and fill it with 50:1 fuel oil mix and use that.

The fact that it starts means that it probably just needs a decarbing, a carburetor cleaning, new plugs and an adjustment of the link&sinc.

If you want the job done by an expert on this type of engine then you should take it to Bill Mayer at Mayers Marina (585-323-1010).He is on the Irondeqoit Bay outlet. If you want to do it yourself then start by doing a compression test.If the numbers are good and less then 10% apart from each other you are in good shape.You must also change all the rubber hoses and seals that get in touch with fuel to the alcohol resistant type.

If you get the factory manual, just do exactly what it tells you to do without variations. It does help to take pictures every step of the way and using separate storage baggies for every piece that you take apart so you don't mix up anything. If you need to pop the flywheel you should ask Bill Mayer to do it for you,he is always glad to help and he makes it look very simple.

good luck.

There is a link to the iBoats "top secret file" for maintaining Johnson /Evinrude engines.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

If you are good with your hands and capable of following directions in a FACTORY manual in order to service and maintain the engine you could do well with this setup. Fiberglass lasts a long time and it is heavy enough to provide a stable boat.As for your engine, it is a thirsty machine and probably a bit too large for your boat although probably still within the specs limits. If you can find a mid eighties 75 horse johnson/evinrude you will have an engine big enough for regular boating purposes.

If you choose to get another boat,then you would still be able to get a few hundred dollars for this one. Or you can donate it to the Salvation army or some place like that and get a tax write off.

good luck.

Edit: All posts must be in English please.

Usually a home owners insurance covers the the entire property within a certain footage limitation.

In this case,your father's shed (property) caused damage to your property while on his property.It will probably be covered,but before making any claims it is a good idea to check the cost of repair (if any) because there often is a fairly high deductible and by making a claim you may end up getting a small amount from the insurance while having to pay most of it yourself and causing the coverage cost to go up.

It is time to call the agent who deals with your dad's home owners insurance.

I am also very interested in being an observer.

Cornelis Haring

Just send me a PM.

It does not matter what side it is on.Just make sure that there is nothing close to it that makes turbulence which will decrease the quality of the signal.

The way I do my boat insurance is by combining it with my car and home insurance. It is a bit cheaper that way.In my case it is Geico.

Make sure that it is an 8 months out of the year insurance ,while the other 4 months (winter)the boat (if parked at your house) should fall under your home owners coverage.

I had the same problem on my dairy cow barn with starlings. (about 30 years ago).

My neighbors took to putting dogs on the barn roofs, which I really did not like, nor did the dogs.

My solution was zig zagging electric fence wire bout 2 inches above the metal roof.It was fun to see one or two get zapped and scream,causing the others to fly off in a panic. It solved my problem without causing a stink (no dead birds) and without attracting other vermin that would come and feed off the dead birds.

Is there another way to sign up as an observer ? I do not want to leave my name and phone number on a public message board. It is an open invitation for any id thief or other sort of scammer to steal yet another piece of information that they should not have access to.

Reading this 3 rod epic I have come to realize how dangerous cabin fever is and how it can turn us into aggressive whatevers. We will soon need that third maybe even a fourth rod to break them on each others skull. I suggest we all should go ice fishing with 5 ,yes Hasbeen, 5 legal tip ups and a rod. Unless of course you only want to use one tip up in which case I will ask you to set out 5 anyway so I can take care of the other 4 that are on your license.