Sk8man

It does look cool but I'd carefully check out things beforehand e.g. 13.6 volts and 400 amp burst etc. and how it would operate in your application (marine use) or if would void a warranty if you have one  on the motor. I wonder what the difference is in the special charger they offer relative to the amperage your alternator would be putting into the battery.

Pretty slick if it would work!  The beers may help ease any anxiety :>)

By the way I agree with Rolmops you have made VERY good use of the space you have there......very neat and orderly ...lots of room left for tangled lines and that kind of stuff too

You might be able to get away with placing the small gas tank ON the shelf (bracketed  and secured by something like a metal not plastic battery tie down) that could free up the corner space on the floor

I had previously mentioned the marine battery starter thing that has multiple uses and which can start up MANY low batteries as well. You could even store iit up in front or under a seat or something. That way you would have emergency start up capability but not be committed to a specific space. I have two of them that I keep for home use as well and I've helped countless people out (cars and boats) with the things. Some even have USB slots to charge your cell phone

Here is what I'm talking about (mine is different but same concept)

http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=747143&destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FproductId%3D1191397%26type%3Dproduct%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26searchPath%3D%252Fcatalog%252Fsearch.cmd%253Fform_state%253DsearchForm%2526N%253D0%2526fsch%253Dtrue%2526Ntk%253DAllProducts%2526Ntt%253Dmarine%252Bstarter%252Bbatytery%2526x%253D0%2526y%253D0%2526WTz_l%253DHeader%25253BSearch-All%252BProducts%26Ntt%3Dmarine%2Bstarter%2Bbatytery%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&WTz_l=YMAL%3BIK-524079

Maybe it works after you drop some of your coffee on it around nineish

One of the things to consider battery-wise is that marine batteries are specifically designed to withstand considerably more VIBRATION than conventional car batteries I don't have any experience (or knowledge) regarding motorcycle batteries but where you place another type than a marine one may be a consideration.

I've had 10 of the original 47H's and 2 Great Lakes LC's since the mid 1980's and I have never had a single problem with them (I hope I'm not jinxing myself here :>) I just recently bought  SG47LC3b's for wire rigs and I hope these new ones hold up as well as the old models. They took the 1000 ft. of 30 lb wire and mono backing real well   The drag is supposed to be the one they use in their heavy duty salt water reels according to the tech rep so I'm holding off on installing the carbon fiber drag washers until see how these work out.

FSNmachine - :smile: :smile:

The smaller spoons part of it is most likely the more productive part other than perhaps in the Spring when they don't seem as line shy or fussy. I don't know personally of their use on Seneca or Canandaigua but I'm sure there are folks out there that have tried about just everything new or different to get those tricky @#$%@#'s to hit   

I think this may be more difficult than might appear at first glance in terms of catching them in numbers anyway.....

Hopefully we won't be returning to the TWO RODS PER PERSON which was in effect prior to this temporary experimental period where three rods are allowed (which is set to expire in December 2013).

When I bought my boat brand new I was told that because my 9.9 and 135 Optimax had different alternator amperages that if they were hooked up to the same battery they could shorten the life of the battery and may create (otherwise unspecified) problems so I've always had two batteries - one a heavy duty starting battery the other a heavy duty combination deep cycle and starting battery. The starting battery is hooked up to the 135 (and depth finder etc.) while the other battery is hooked up to the 9.9 and my electric downriggers and electric trolling motor. I was told by a number of marina mechanics that my 135 (and engines like it) needed at least half charge in the battery at all times to turn over the engine because of the high amperage draw they have. I have NEVER had a problem with this set up (other than normal battery replacement once since 2002). Don's comment above about the charging capability of the small motors alternator is a good one too. Unless they are run at HIGHER speeds they are not charging with anywhere near the max amperage you might assume.

My advice would be to have TWO batteries and get the best ones you can afford. They are at the heart of everyone's system and its not an exaggeration (on Lake O) to say that your very life could depend on it (dead batteries almost always happen at the worst times).

Kuba I just happened to think of an additional possibility and that is a PORTABLE MARINE starting unit that has multiple uses and you can take it from boat to boat as well. They are quite powerful and are rechargeable  in conventional electrical outlets. Places like Cabelas have them for about the cost of a good battery (about $100)

I just took a look at the pricing.....no wonder they held off on publishing it    Actually, the whole electronics game is getting pretty funny, and to take it to the extreme the fishing game is getting even funnier when it comes to the "new next best thing". If you are a charter captain dealing with the extremely short season here in New York State (and the East Coast for that matter) the latest "gizmos" may make a difference in attracting your customer base, but for the rest of us "wannabes" at the periphery the purchase of many of these "new technological  advancements" is far from the "need to have" category in the fish catching realm. We talk ourselves  (and our wives sometimes) into the need for much of this "stuff" and treat it as absolute necessity because marketing people tell us we need it to catch fish. The same is true for lure paint jobs and in my previous world - the newest computer and camera equipment which from the late 80's I spent enough to buy several brand new boats and it now is totally obsolete and basically useless. At this point in my life I am beginning to resent being part of the "herd" mentality and "biting" on these new "lures". A return to the old basics of actually fishing and feeling a sense of accomplishment when you figure things out yourself rather than relying on the latest "gizmo" to provide you with data that in many cases can be close to useless because you've forgotten the basics of the sport....just another way to blow your money in my view....and yes it has become a big part of the "game" these days. I'm not badmouthing this product in any way but trying to make a point .....maybe we are getting a bit far afield from sport fishing itself and sucked into the marketing hype of the electronics world.

The 54 pound one would be great to use to mess over some buddies during the salmon derby....make a big fuss on the boat and run like h toward the weigh station holding it up

Here's my set-up for the gas tank for my 2 stroke ....the 3 gal. tank lasts 10 hrs and I keep a very small 1 gal premixed in case I run out I usually switch out my 9.9 for my electric trolling motor on the bracket in mid to late summer for perch fishing...

In the Spring look for the warmest water you can find (off power plants or sometimes stream mouths) for browns (look wherever you see pods of bait all season long). Browns can tolerate less dissolved oxygen content and are often at home in murky water and higher temps than rainbows.They are often found inside mud lines in the shallows of lakes in the Spring. They love areas where there is shallow water nearby drop-offs and they often suspend off these areas as the summer progresses but also can be bottom oriented in the Spring like lake trout. Rainbows can usually be found near stream mouths in the Spring but in summer they are found largely distributed throughout the lakes in deeper water above the thermocline or sometimes within it but seldom below it. Browns are less predictable in summer but almost always located near bait. In  late summer to Fall browns are found near stream mouths while rainbows are often found out deeper all over the lake. I know I didn't give specific temps but those aren't as reliable as knowing their general habits. This is at leas t what I have found in my 50 plus years of trolling for trout and salmon. Others may have additional things to add or different experiences. Mine is based on combined Finger Lakes (mostly) and Lake Ontario to a lesser degree. In terms of speed it is dependent on very many factors (time of year, wind direction and speed, currents, type of lures or rigs used etc.) but n general browns like slower speeds and a lot of distance in the lines (and light lines where possible) as the season progresses and often smaller spoons or stick baits. Rainbows like faster speeds many are caught on fast turns going diagonally or across currents...i..e. they like a lot of action.

For the type of stuff you said you are currently doing a size 3 will cover most situations

I've used a long padlock (like on a bicycle) through the holes in the clamps (aligned first) in my 9.9 and never a problem loosening up....and it is pretty secure other than from  from a hacksaw.   

This is something that books could be written about but after 60 years of fishing for just about everything in freshwater and  quite a bit in salt water I would say that for most lures especially spoons (heavy ones and flutter spoons large and small) you will want to use a swivel to help keep the line from twisting and to allow the lure to have uninhibited action. The key is using the smallest high quality ball bearing swivel you can get away with for a given lure that is still strong enough for the targeted species. Use single ring (soldered/welded ring) rather than split ring type to prevent line cut offs with large fish. For items like stickbaits (e.g. Rapalas, Smithwicks, and the like) a swivel like that just mentioned can be used but many folks PREFER to either tie them directly to the nose ring of the stickbait  (often using a looped knot) to preserve the original intended action. If trolling (other than drifting or slow trolling) is desired you may want to opt for a swivel as fast speeds can generate line twist. Another avenue is the use of Fast snaps or Kwik clips  for stickbaits which are little metal hook like things which ties directly to the line  that allow you to change lures but they don't have a swivel function.  I think that is basic "swivel 101" others may have additional info. Good luck with the fishing!

Sweet! ...but on the downside...I think I'm glowing from looking into the open box

I know this comment will probably tick off folks committed to heavy lines  but for over forty years I used 12 lb test for all my downriggers, outriggers, thermocline leaders, and leads to dodgers, cowbell /flashers etc. on the Finger Lakes and Lake Ontario (salmon fishing included) and only had a couple "snap offs" and they were due to me forgetting to reset my drag and because I had used a ball bearing swivel with split ring. I changed over some of my rods to heavier lines a few years back only because of the FLEAS. A lot of guys on salt water catch huge fish on light weight and ultralight tackle including sharks on 8 pound test line.....its all about setting the drags properly, taking your time playing the fish, and if need be chasing down the fish and/or letting them tow the boat a bit. Most guys just want to leave all the other lines out and horse the fish in and not mess around playing the fish. Here's a pic of my son at 8 yrs old (back in the 80's with a 30 pound salmon he caught on 12 pound test line off one of my downriggers. I'm only trying to illustrate a point here not tick anyone off....sometimes we forget that it is mostly about technique not just the fancy tackle.

P.S. I realize that with our wire rigs etc. it's a little different situation

Andy,

If you can get one like that for the derby this year you'll be in great shape

If you don't have a heater it might be worth your while to RENT a commercial portable propane heater from a rental place if you have one nearby if it is affordable. The bottom line is that mounting that motor correctly is very important and it is one of those situations where you don't want to be in the position of later on saying to yourself "Why didn't I wait or take the time to do it right?"   I can relate to wanting to get out there soon though

Use the special MARINE STABIL it is about $20 and covers about 320 gallons> It is triple strength compared with the red stuff.

I think you'll be a "happy camper" Kuba   especially when you add up the saved fuel costs Good luck!

A few things come to mind  in addition to whats been said - 1) Try new plugs  if they weren't brand new,  and recheck the gap, 2) Was the fuel ethanol (water accumulates in it) gas? If so, put NEW non-ethanol fuel in your tank (at a marina?) and try it, That lean and rich mixture knob should be OK in the middle to start with until you identify other possible contributors. Check the fuel filter if it has one that is accessible to see if it is clogged. The mixture may have been too rich in terms of the 24 to 1 since it is a motor that has had some previous use I'd go with 40 to 1 as it is still in the ball park (esp. since you had that slick out back). If your gas line to the tank was old or stored for a long time it may have had old fuel or contaminated fuel in them that went to the motor and hasn't worked its way through the system. Try a new gas line. I'd do one thing at a time so you can see the results and hopefully identify the problem. If the engine sat for a long time the carburator may need to be cleaned by a competent mechanic. If the lean/rich mixture is set right you shouldn't have to mess with it much under normal conditions even when idling or slow trolling (but right now the temps are far from normal operating conditions).