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RYE

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Posts posted by RYE

  1. If you have a four rigger program, this has been sure fire for me. Run a big flasher cutbait combo on one of your corners. The other three run #4 j-plugs. Silver bullets are my preference. Make sure you are running as close to bottom as possible without dredging zebra mussels. After first light period if your action slows and your still seeing hooks on the bottom start s or zigzag patterns. 50-100' of water usually works for a starter depth. Remember, keep your baits close to bottom, some of your catch will have muddy bellys. Also, don't forget a 10 color or copper rig for a junk rod bonus. Good luck, Bob

  2. J, before I bought I wouls check out iMarine USA 888-ALL-BOAT. Not sure if they have Fish hawk but if they do I'll bet they are cheapest. I bought four new cannons from them and their price couldn't be beat, without Capt. discount. Nice people to deal with. Godd luck, you'll luv the Fish Hawk, I've runn all season on one set of 4 AA batteries. their great units! Bob

  3. I'm currently using 50# mono with a 15'- 20' section of 17# florocarbon leader. Absolutely no fleas

    except on my 30# wire dipsey rigs. The heavy mainline doesn't seem to have any adverse effect on my hookup rates as far as I can tell.

  4. (4) Proos Electric downriggers 3-4' booms w/ swivel bases, mounted w/ Big Jon Ball cradles and dual Big Jon rodholders. Vinyl covers are also included.

    Riggers all good working condition. These downriggers are still being produced new, with parts available. They were some of the first riggers made for controlled depth fishing. (1) motor has slight gear whine. Also some new spare parts such as counters and counter belts.

    All items sold together for $450.00. You pickup at the Oak. (Point Breeze, NY) (570) 971-7402

  5. Anyone using the newest electric riggers from Cannon, since the manufacturer change, and if so what are the pros/cons of them. I always used the old Cannons on my other boats with good success. Will be up grading my current boat soon and would like to hear some positives before I decide. thanks, Bob

  6. From the picture it looks like they would be fine somewhere in the area of those rear seats, I would suggest the use of an aluminum backing plate inside your gunnel if you can gain access to install. I would also recommend a bow cover to wash off and steep waves you may encounter. good fishing!

  7. Check the routing of your vent hose, from just below your fill to the top of tank. If the vent hose sags below tank at any point when your running gas will fill the sag area, then get pushed out the top of vent when your filling. If you find this to be true, tie up the sag area(s), without pinching the hose, and see if that doesn't help. If it's overflowing main fill, it's gotta be either an obstruction, incorrect fuel gauge reading, to much volume from the pump, or the positioning of the boat at that pump.( sloping grade) Only things I can think of, the vent issues was my problem at one time as well.. Oh, fill at the end of the fishing day so your not at the pump at 4a..... :lol:

  8. RC, I agree with Shade, if I were to start out again by myself, would do things alittle differently. Would begin by hiring a charter for one or two trips and ask a billion questions during the outings. There's no secrets a good captain will keep from the novice wanting to learn and there are alot of good captains out there depending what port you prefer using. Personally, it would have saved me a ton of money in the beginning by learning from a professional on what's needed and what's simply fisherman catching......I too suffered the learning curve when I began trib fishing. Remember standing on that bank for hours just watching what the guys in the water were doing. Same can apply to the boat fisherman who does not have seasoned fishing companions to draw from.. Hope this helps, this site is a good one, any questions you have along the way, will be addressed I'm sure, good luck to you on the water.....

  9. The Rochester guys for Sea Tech do a real good job with the class time. One suggestion though, if Daniels volunteers to submit your applications for you, beware. A few of the guys in my class sent them to him with the checks and the checks were lost. They ended up driving to Buffalo, picking up the apps. which were not sent to Coasties and delievered it themselves, as most of the rest of us did from the class. That was three years ago. That was the only downside to the class for me. Oh, Daniels promised us nice Sea Tech embroidered hats for grad, we never saw either. All of our classes with the exception of first aid was in Rochester at a Hampton Inn but we had to drive to Buffalo to test. Our first aid was held in Canandaigua. Sharpen your pencils........

  10. you won't be sorry with the x4, just make sure you mount your transducer with right angle, con with the moors, you have a coated cable to contend with. I get a full season out of a set of batteries in probe of x4, constant read and no cable issues. before the x4 I ran the 840 on three different boats, worked good for me but doesn't compare to their new design, my opinion........

  11. Nothing wrong with the Oak for your fall salmon fishing, just don't plan to early. Don't plan before last two weeks or so of September, and then it depends on the water flows. Some guys actually change there sleep up and fish at night, check regs, where legal. Lures and egg sacs work well. One lure that has worked well for me in the light is a long billed crank in firetiger. Key though is to burn it. If you think your reeling fast, reel a little faster. Ya make 'em mad, they'll bite it. Lot of guys use rattle traps as well. If you use egg sacs, use enough floatation to keep it just off the bottom. If lake conditions cooperates get that lead core out and run #4 silver bullet J plugs in 50-100 ft of water put in front of break wall. Run the lead just short of the bottom contour and zigzag troll at about 2.7-3.0 mph. Every once in awhile if you bring the plug up and it's got zebra mussels on the hooks, your in the zone. Just clean them off and get back down there. As far as lodging if the weather permits alot of guys bring tents and stay either at North of the Ridge or the state park off of 18. There that's a start, any questions don't hesitate.

  12. My first and foremost suggestion would be to not venture to far from safe habor with the size boat you will be using. Weather can come up quickly.

    1. You do not need lc's. I did not have any for years. Just count the passes the reel makes and multiply by approx. 3' for each pass, roughly. If you go to lc's go with the 47's, more capacity.

    2.The rods will work but you should have twilly tips on the ends for wire.

    3. Very good reference guide. Another good publication is the mag Great Lakes Angler good articles, they do alot with small boat rigging ideas.

    4. Again, pay close attention to weather. DO NOT slight on your safety equipment, to include a good operating vhf and gps.

    5. If I were starting out again, I think one thing I would do differently would be once or twice I would charter a trip to see what techniques and tackle are being used. Most all of your known charter captains will be more than happy to show you the ropes so to speak to assist you in the learning curve. One can buy alot of not needed tackle in the process.

    Hope this is a start, we all needed this at some point and most of us are continuing to learn............good luck, good fishin :yes:

  13. Freeman, no offense intended to anyone but I must suggest you think about spending alittle extra and buy new. I believe you can find a very capable unit for around $150.00. A vhf is one of your main pieces of safety equipment on board next to your life vests. Piece of mind alone of knowing what you got is worth the extra few dollars spent on new. Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth. At some point you could always buy a good used unit for a backup, possibly......good fishin

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