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RYE

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Posts posted by RYE

  1. nothing fance for me as well, point, hit the button and forget about it... I'm using a Raymarine, have had no issues in four seasons with it, holds a very acurate course even in heavier seas,there are several manufacturers out there that make a suitable unit for what he needs,wants out of it....good luck

  2. The 22 w/hardtop was my first Lake O boat. A very dry, strong boat. You will appreciate the extra length and you will learn boat operation in heavier seas real quick. I appreciate the knowledge I acquired for boat handling from that 22 footer.....enjoy :yes:

  3. I fished a 27' Baha single screw for 12 seasons. Never backed in to dock, wouldn't want to on regular basis with current of any kind. Mine would back to port and also to starboard in right conditions with NO throttle. Was only ever towed off one time. It was a 350 chevy block Mercruiser. Cruised 28 mph with a weight of approx. 7000 lbs. Wouldn't be afraid to go back to single again, much better fuel economy then a twin, on a long run, I can tell you that much.

  4. wire is way to go, set your drag real light after you have the dipsey at the ft out you want to cover than attach a #3 or so rubber band around the wire to the reel handle. fish hits, rubber band breaks then adjust drag to fight fish. this helps avoid loosing the fish from the initial shock of the strike, silver diver/black diver are my best.. somedays if it weren't for my divers it would be a slow go...good luck :yes:

  5. Regardless of sealant probably your best fix for a thru hole is welding. I worked in aluminum construction for alot of years in the truck industry. The seams then were either foam taped between the layers or caulked, usually both. The company I worked for was Grummans who also built boats. I would suggest welding your hole than applying a thin bead of a good sealant on the outer seam as well as inner if you can access it. There will probably also be foam in the hull to contend with, prior to welding make sure that all combustibles are clear in the hull at the immediate area of the repair. Good luck with your fix.....

  6. Yankee, I've only ever run two. Always made sure they are heavier then required. Only problem I've ever found is onboard chargers cooking the water out, even the auto ones. Just cooked a set last season, new set this spring and I will be very selective when I hookup charger. good luck

  7. I current run a Furuno 585 w/ thru hull transducer. The detail is great, and very simple to operate, adjust. I myself like separate units for my electronics that way if something should go down your not loosing multiple units for repair, ie gps and ff ect. I would also suggest the fishhawk x4 if you want speed n temp. I upgraded last season, the probe ran the same set of batteries all season and there is no downrigger cable to mess with..... Good luck with the new rig,that lund will last a lifetime :yes:

  8. I would also suggest straightening out the tails on the weights. Fish weights work alright as long as they track straight. I thumb the spools on a clicker drag as the ball drops. My drags are pre-adjusted on my rigger rods and I don't touch em unless someone gets into by accident. The wire divers, check your tension screw often. We set the drag very light, play out with thumb on spool, clicker drag. When we get to desired distance out we keep drag light and attach a #2 or 3 rubber band to the wire and afix to reel knob. Fish hits, breaks the rubber band, softens shock of initial strike. You can tighten drag as needed once you have control of the rod. Works for us....

  9. I'm running the Raymarine and like it alot. Not into all the interfacing though,less hassle when upgrading electronics in my opinion. I would think either are good units, I know I can hit a button and walk away. Into them, with them, in the trough, it doesn't matter she stays where you pointed it. :yes:

  10. I've run them both places on different boats. A lot of it depends where you spend the most time. If you spend alot of time rigging and you have to rely on different boat operators and different skill levels you may want to have the display where you can see changes in speed rather quickly as well as temp. changes at the lure. If your behind the wheel alot of the time than the dash is optimum. Nothing beats a GOOD boat driver. You're gonna lover your X4! :yes:

  11. I ran a sport pilot on my last boat. I now have a hydralic system on my current rig. There's not much comparison. The hydralic system (Furuno) is much more responsive, keeps up with wave action much better than sport pilot did. I guess it would depend on what outdrive you current have.

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