TyeeTanic

No more than 20 to 30 minutes ... 20 minutes, no bites feels like 4 hours no bites ... its SLOOOOOOWWWWWWWW.

Great video man!

Big rain yesterday on North Shore ... washed out lots of docks (and boats attached) out of 16 Mile Creek ... huge currents.  Walked down and spoke to a boater ... seems about 30 boats washed out into the lake, and he thinks about half of them sunk.  

Be careful this side of the lake, there's LOTS of hazardous debries in the water ... docks, sail boat masts ... you name it.

17 hours ago, EKoselny said:

Check out some of Captain Pete Alex's videos on using Torpedo Divers. He attaches the diver on the leader end of the copper, not on the backer end. 

 

 

 

Actually ... that could be a better idea ... to connect at the leader end .... only thing is you'd have to disconnect the torpedo as you are bringing in the fish ... and depending on the circumstance, it might not be that easy, without the risk of losing the fish ... you might end up hand lining the leader in? 

But the benefit is you don't need to let out another 100 ft of braid to get the torpedo down, in the instance it is attached AFTER the copper (on the braid).

18 hours ago, landingzone said:

and then let out another? ft. of braid to achieve added depth?

Use the torpedo charts ... it will give you the amount of line out for a given depth. It's not going to be 100% accurate, but close enough.

So say the copper get's you down 50 ft ... and you want to go down another 15 ft ... use the torpedo guide to tell you how much line you need

out to get that additional 15 ft.   I would go with the heaviest torpedo you can get though (Cuda) ... also, you need the right diving charts, I think

the ones that come with the Torpedo are at much slower speeds (like 1 to 1.5 mph or something).

21 minutes ago, landingzone said:

So to get more depth on a 300 copper, where would you attach the Torpedo Cuda?

After you release all the copper, it should be attached to the braid.

On 7/11/2024 at 10:45 AM, Scalloper 1 said:

Is it something you use often?

Full disclosure, I sold my boat. But when I did run my gig ... I used it when the weather warmed up and the fish were deeper for sure.  It helped get those lines deeper, without having to have a gazillion yards of line out.

I use a 7' two piece, mainly so I can travel to good lakes on a plane with it.

It's medium-heavy.  I put 30 lb braid on it, and I use a 20 lb or 30 lb fluoro leader

on it.

Caught countless northern pike on it ... never a strain at all. Casting or trolling, it works

really well.  

Funny, I was casting for walley with my lighter rod ... and a Musky struck.  Pulled in a really

nice one with my lighter rod, and 6 lb test line, LOL. That was fun.

85 lbs seems like complete overkill for me.

I did this. I actually attached the torpedo weight to the end of my leadcore, to get more depth.

It works pretty well, but you need a decent board to suspend the added weight of the torpedo.

I put mine on a medium to heavy duty rod, with a pretty heavy weight.  I didn't want to keep dragging up my functional gear, just to get a reading.

That allowed me to drop the TD down as frequently as I liked to get the temperature profile, without having to disrupt my setup.

Likely a combination of reasons.  We always get stuck on arguments about the ONE reason ... but often it's a variety of reasons, and we are all kind of right.

I'd fix those problems if you can ... having some problems makes a potential buyer think what else is wrong, even when you're trying to be fully honest.

Rather not have any problems to begin with, leaves a confident impression.

The kids a pro at holding fish for photos!! LOL. WOW.

North Shore at that time of the year, I'd say fishing off Toronto Island is good. On south side of that Island is a big slope/drop off.

Ports to launch out of ... probably Promenade.

2 hours ago, Scalloper 1 said:

River herring aka alewives, have a completely different flavor then sea herring. Sea herring are full of fat and are far better eating.

ooooooh this is the alewive run?? So freshwater to freshwater.

Perhaps the biggest strength of a seasoned fisherman is not the techniques learned over the years, but the network of other fishermen built over the years.

Talking to find out what depth, what speed, what direction, what colors, what type of bait ... and keeping that information live as it changes day by day ... that cuts

a lot of guesswork out.

Don't be afraid to make friends at the dock ... and contribute to a central repository of information.

Extract from those above, for a start ... the type of bait and colors that GENERALLY work this time of year, the depth (follow the pack), the speed, I'd say 1.8 mph to 2.8 mph ... start at 2.2 to 2.4 mph, and zig zag to get intel (outside line strike = the fish want faster speed, inside line = slower speed).  If you mark fish, go through them at different angles at a consistent speed ... they'll strike one direction, but not the other direction, all other variables being the same. Take note of what worked, even a bite that you lost ... speed, direction, bait, color, depth ... everything ... and hone in on what is working ... try to apply to the other rods (with maybe some variability in the bait type and maybe accent colors).

Unless it's a legit seller, with protection ... I stopped doing these transactions.

It's just not worth it ... way too many scammers out there ... I'm guessing, any deal through a non-core purchasing route is like 30% to 50% chance dealing with a scammer.

Mmmmmm .... reminds me of pickled herring. First time I had that, I knew what I've been missing all my life.

All times of year. Color, speed is critical, and changes during the season.

Blues/silvers work well in spring, then greens in mid summer, then reds/purples in late summer.

Not a law ... but generally speaking, and I think the reason the color changes is due to the bait

and nature changing from silver to greens over the summer ... and the red/purple is more aggrevating

colors at the end of the season to simply get Mr. Salmon upset to strike.

23 hours ago, Long time fisherman said:

Hope this helps... Thanks!

Can you stand back and take the ENTIRE back from starboard to port side.

20 hours ago, sherman brown said:

I always mount mine where I will get the least turbulence from things sticking down from the bottom. then I mount mine with about 1/4" of the bottom of the transducer sticking down below the bottom of the boat. I also like to tilt the front up slightly to have a smoother water flow over it.

Agreed, that is going to be right in the wake of the ponton tube .... it will create a lot of turbulence in that area.

Best to show a photo of the entire back of the transom .... not a side shot. What's important is how close it is to hull features, and trim plates.

Well, my story is a bit different to yours ... it started with a boat floating without power ... and 3 ladies in bathing suits ... just kidding.

But for real, we were out fishing and then I see this floating object ... so we navigate to it ... it's  suitcase and it has floating balloons tied to it.

I'm like, is this thing full of drugs or cash or something ... we were all confused .... and even worried to a degree.  Then we saw the search and

rescue air craft above us ... and figured it was a mock mission, and that was what they were looking for.  So we moved on our marry way ... 

OR

it might have been a suitcase full a drugs and cash ... not sure. LOL.

The reality is that this action impacts the Indian's community as much as it impacts you.

It is a dis-honor to his fellow community members, who will also suffer from a lack of fish in 3 years from now.

What right does he have to do this to his own community members?

This is something that should be taken up with the local Indian leaders ... this isn't about (just) us ... and the impact on us,

but the impact on everyone, it's nature ... and what right does anyone have to abuse it ... and spoil it for everyone else?

19 hours ago, spoonfed-1 said:

65 lb braid backer to copper, 25 ft leader of fluorocarbon from copper to lure. 20 lb for spoons or plugs 30 to 40 lb leader for flasher flys.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner! THIS, although I'd say 30 lb for flasher ... 40 lb gets thick, and hard to tie a good knot.