Firechief48

PAP I hope all is well and may you post of full boxes all season!

Usually I run free sliders. I will at times fix them though and I use the Offshore Stacker release. I set the one pad deep on the rigger cable and set the other pad with the line light in the pad so it pulls free easily.

Mine came from Troutman

I still run the Off Shore releases from the ball. Ball is still below the probe on a break away cable. Never had a problem yet.

Usually east end is on or near Labor Day

For the money I don't think you can beat the Shinano TDR for riggers and Eagle Claw 10' Diver Rods.

12lb torpedoes and 8lb balls. Depends on how deep I'm fishing

Yup, sacrifice to the fish gods and country music.

For what it's worth I ran main power from the battery switch to a fuse panel (Bluesea) at the rear of the boat using #6 wire. The panel has a main fuse with 6 individual 30 amp fuses which I hooked one rigger to each fuse using #10 wire. The size wire depends on the length of run. Definitely use plugs on each rigger so you can take them off if you want to. Mine I rewired using trolling motor harnesses.

The only way I haven't tried them is smoked. Any other way I would throw the fish away and eat the pan it was cooked in first.

X2 on what Total Chaos said

Once again X2 on what Sk8man says.

I always have F/F on the bottom, spoon on top

I would start with connections/wire first before anything. If batteries are good it sounds like proper power isn't getting to the starter.

Send it back and they should replace it or give you your money back. I had one like that years ago with the shear pins and after the second time replacing it I went back to the metal style. Now I run a kicker and carry bags just incase.

I would also agree tracks and ratchet holders are the way to go. If you put big enough tracks you can always add holders to them if needed.

I've run sliders over everything. I myself like Evil Eyes or some other type of light/flutter spoon. I won't get into the argument of actual depth vs distance from transducer. I will say that 99% of the hits on the sliders are at the same depth/distance that I'm marking fish which usually is half of what the deep marks are.

If I'm running 4 riggers I'll run fixed cheaters on the middle and sliders on the outsides especially if I'm showing fish in 2 different levels. Sliders pick up a lot of steelies and later on cohos. I use stacker releases on the cheaters myself just set light.

As mentioned above the motors will self drain in the down position. We run 2 boats on the Hudson for duck hunting during some extremely cold periods and never stored inside, just put on the trailers and park. Both engines are 20 years old and never had a problem

Yes half hitch around wire close to reel and hook over handle. Doesn't take much to break but keeps from creeping.

I didn't see it mentioned and I'm assuming you know you need Twilli Tips as the wire will cut the metal tip. I don't run snubbers either, I leave a loose drag and use a rubber band to keep it from moving due to waves. The band will break on the hit and the fish can take line no problem

current only flows when a device, in this case the down rigger calls for power thus the heavier wire is needed to carry the amperage from the battery to the device. The neg returns the residual back to the battery completing the circuit but not as much as the draw from the pos side. Think of it as water, if the faucet isn't open then nothing flows.

I ran 6 wire from battery to a fuse panel (Bluesea) in the rear of the boat then ran each rigger off of that panel on separate fuses.

I have a 9.9 pushing my 23' Baha and works fine. You will not have any problems.

I fully agree with bout time. I have a kicker and carry bags but the big thing is if your main goes down you have the kicker. It may take awhile but it will get you in.