Nessmuk

Earl's book now sells for over $80 I had a copy many years ago but never thought I would want to pursue this type of fishing

Les, I was kidding and you came up with an answer! I should be ready to fish in a couple of weeks but sadly that won't happen due to family responsibilities. Once things settle down, maybe in the spring, I might get some time on the water. Really looking forward to trying this. Everyone's willingness to share basic info is appreciated. I learned flyfishing the hard way but there was a lot more written about it. Most of what I find about trolling for lakers is geared to Canadian lakes. The only thing I can find related to the Finger Lakes is excerpts from Earl Holdren's booklet.

Thanks for posting the video! First time I have seen a flutter spoonb and spin doctor in action.

When is ice out in the spring

Les, Thanks for your reply! I have a rod rigged with 12# test so will leave that as is but will have to add a fluro leader. Interesting about the welded or soldered ring since the flutter spoons I bought Sat. on my pilgrimage to Sutton's all have soldered rings. Will have to look for suitable swivels. My only experience with trout/char are with stream fish which under certain conditions are easily spooked by anything that doesn't look right to them. Hence the question about ball to lure distance. My target is Lake Trout thought a RB, LL, SP or BRN would be nice. I was thinking 20'-50' but it sounds like longer might be required at times. Amazing how many unquantifyable variables in trolling. I had fly fishing figured out in a somewhat formulaic way and wonder if it is possible to get to the same level in trolling?

Thanks guys! Wasn't aware of the shelf life/brittle issue with Fluoro which is good to know. Fish looking at the ball is interesting. The ball I have is natural lead color. Should I paint it and if so what color? Bright color as an attractor or black trying to hide it?

I'm working on rigging my boat for trolling in Canadice and Hemlock lakes and am wondering....... How long a leader and what strength? Is fluorocarbon desireable or necessary? When trolling how far should the spoon or lure be behind the DR weight? Being new to this I don't have a clue as to what is reasonable.

Cursing and struggling? Not me Most of my cursing so far has been at the crummy boat launches in New York state. I really like Canadice and Hemlock but the launch sites are dreadful. I'm also not much of a motor boat type so dislike dealing with gas/oil etc. I was hoping to get out once before the snow but that isn't likely. I figure if I'm not having fun by the end of next summer the boat will go but that's doubtful. I have enjoyed fishing and now it is a matter of finding fish and maybe catching a few. I am hoping to be able to move to Cape Vincent before I am too feeble to enjoy a day on the water.

Agreed but..... This tiny boat probably won't see the rough weather you probably do. I've been on L Ontario and don't have any plans on taking this little bathtub there

Amazingly, I have only one location on the transom that allows everything to work with the DR in place due to the size of the transom and motor. Did lotsa holding the DR in place and moving motor etc. Did some arithmetic and calculate 60-70# load on the DR w/10# weight mount and that can be multiplied given some wave action. Can't imagine the Cannon clamp being very good for those loads given the small surface area of the clamp. I have to mount the transducer directly below the DR. Do you see a problem with that? Seems like I will need to be careful not to bang the transducer with the weight. Being a fair fly fisherman I understand importance of lure (fly) presentation! Spent a lot of time learning to put a fly where I want it and in a way to present it drag free. I could care less what the boat is doing but do care that the lure is getting proper action and is moving at a speed that LT are apt to consider fair game for an attack. I plan to start with small by your standards, 2"-2.5" Sutton spoons. Wondering about having anything ahead of it?

It sounds like you are talking about lure action and not progress forward?

This is the DR bracket I designed for inside the transom of the dink. The bracket will be whittled from 6" aluminum channel. The joints will be epoxied and bolted. It will be bolted to the inside of the transom and require some spacers near the bottom.

Now I understand the issue. Sounds like a swivel might have helped with the release leader? A lot of what I have been reading in books shows line to swivel to leader to lure/fly. It seems that a dodger or spindoctor would require a swivel. I bought a Luhr Jensen speed indicator and assume it is relatively accurate. I'm leary of other speed indicators after looking at how they work. Even the Jensen has issues in weeds and junk in the water. The price was right so I got it with the DR and it had never been used. Going to spend some time designing the DR bracket tonight.

I assume that given any weight at 100' down it will move aft when the boat moves forward and the question is how much. Most of what I am reading about trolling for lake trout says troll SLOW. Slow to me seems to be in the 1-2.5 mph range? Can you see your weight on your sonar and if so can you tell how far back it is or is it just a line on the display? I'm not exactly sure about how you are loosing your rig on the leader and release. I was thinking of the fly or spoon being on a fluro leader at least 8-12' aft of the release.

Do you think a 6# weight would get me down to 100' w/o drifting back and lifting. I'd like to go as light as possible and most of my trolling would be in Hemlock/Canadice and maybe Keuka. The other possibility is St. Lawrence river but that isn't likely. I have a 10# weight so maybew I should stick with it? I was looking at a picture of a cannon release which also appears to be adjustable. I like the idea of the cannon release being on an 18" leader which would allow me to attach with out messing with the heavy weight.

Interesting concept for making a weight. I just shut down a metal/plastic casting business and have the ability to make a proper mold via cnc and cast the lead weight. Reality is that it is a lot of messing about and the cost of buying lead isn't cheap. Even the auto repair shops get paid for wheel weights! A lot easier to just find one for sale. Trying to decide if 4lb is enough for more or less 80' down

Welllllllll, maybe but maybe not..... I have the tools/materials to make the mount I don't like the Cannon clamp on mount which is also way way expensive for what it is! Why should that chunk of aluminum cost 1/3 the cost of a DR So I'll make the mount from some scrap aluminum. I also have the knowledge and technology here to make a weight mold and cast the weight But..... I don't want to do any lead casting so will probably look around for a used 4-6# weight Time to hit the local second shops. So far I have spent $270. I need the smaller weight, spoons, leader material, hipboots (for when the brown smelly stuff gets too deep on LOU ) The way I am going at it so far I hope to be set up for trolling for <$400 when all is said and done. We'll see The price of fish dinner is getting pretty steep All this started with me buying a little boat to go fishing once in a while. One of my favorite fishing holes is way polluted w/o much life due to Canada Geese (Mendon Ponds). Had to put anchor line in the washing machine after that visit. Another, Silver Lake, a place of childhood memories, is full of 6" sunfish and 7" perch. Caught lots of tiny fish but nothing like back in the '50s. A visit to Hemlock/Canadice struck my fancy (at least a beautiful place) and some reading got me started on this trolling thing. I'm also interested in the St. Lawrence but that is another story. The worst part is that my poor dad, 85, still driving, is having problems. Phone calls from doctors/SW/etc. and I am his only local relative who drives so we'll see if I have time and gas budget to fish since I will be the care giver. "If it's not one thing, it's another, it's always something" Roseanne Rosanadana AKA Guilda Radner SNL

Ifishy My little 12' boat doesn't have wheel steering so a "trolling board" won't fit due to tiller. Having looked at the Cannon gunwale clamp the forces are probably less than I thought. My main concern is bouncing in waves action using the boom as a lever. I'll probably make an over built aluminum bracket to mount on the transom. Sk8man I looked at the "Black" releases on line but they appear not to be available locally. Scotty releases seem to be most common but I'm not sure if they are adjustable. Also looked at Cannon releases which are adjustable.

I think you are right about the transom mount! I appreciate your opinion. I especially like the idea of the safety lanyard since I would be if it went for a swim I have a small supply of aluminum plate in various thicknesses as well as some structural aluminum. I like the idea of a swivel mount but that will have to wait since this week I sort of blew my wad on this and the fishfinder. The setup has a Walker release which is different from what I have seen at tackle stores. What release do you like best? I have to start looking for used weights. The one that I have is kinda crummy but might get some use.

Forgot, 18" boom

Sk8man, This dinky boat is going to require some structural additions. I have some 6" aluminum channel I might be able to use to make a transom mount or make sort of a longditudinal wood deck attached to the two seats. I think I understand some of the forces at play. Off the side would be easier to handle but off the transom would keep the ball/wire closer to the CL of the boat and keep the boat going more straight. I am leaning toward transom mout but w/o experience figured it was wise to ask before I start cutting material. There is nowhere to mount the DR or speed indicator on this boat w/o making something. The DR is a Cannon Easy Troll and has a simple base that clamps the DR in place. The weight is a 10# and I will probably start with it but wonder if a smaller weight might work better on this small boat. Came with a walker release.

As it happened I ended up with an affordable downrigger and Luhr Jensen speed indicator from a LOU member. Now I have to figure out how to mount them and the fishfinder. Any suggestions as to where to mount the DR? Off the stern or off the side?

please disregard

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Ric66 I have considered a Seth Green rig but assumed one used wire stored on a victrola reel. Maybe I should look at that idea some more. I do wonder what it is like to play a fish with all that hardware attached?