Lively1
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28 views and no replies? Did I ask a really stupid question?
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Location for power port? I plan to install a power port on my Bayliner (19' open bow), to make it easier to plug the electric cord in when dockside. The most convenient location for the port is the top of the hull, near the rear seats/speakers. This location is just below the top deck and is slanted somewhat. It requires drilling a 1-7/8 hole in the hull, but the hole would be filled with the port and way above waterline. Is this something to be avoided? Is the slanted mount a concern re water accumulating in the port? There is a rubber cap for the port. It could also be located on a vertical wall inside the cockpit. Where do manufacturers locate power ports on similar size boats? Thanks.
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Sold / Closed For sale minn Kota terrova 55lb with ipilot
Lively1 replied to steelydan's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
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Rebel - How do you rig those stinger hooks in the plastics? I've experimented with various things, none of them were quick/easy as I would like. Also, how often do you connect on the stinger vs. main hook? -
That coloration is typical of wild stream-living brown trout. They get a real buttery complexion. Lake-living browns tend to be more silvery. -
Not an expert but I have caught some jigging on Keuka over several years. My favorite setup is a fairly stiff rod paired with a level-wind baitcasting reel. It gives you a very smooth drop, and you can lightly thumb the spool as the jig is falling and feel if it gets hit on the way down. Like most people, I have it spooled with braid - lighter is better IMO, gives a faster drop and less drag in currents etc.. I think I have 8 or 10 lb on it. Then a rod length or two of mono for a leader, joined to the braid with a double uni knot. I use mainly 1 and 1.5 oz jigs with plastics, though I do have a few lighter ones (bucktails) for those rare days when its really still and you can get one to sink to 100'+ without drifting too far. The other key piece of gear you want is a decent fishfinder so you can watch your jig!
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for sale : usa WTB: Happy Troller trolling plate
Lively1 posted a topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
WTB: Happy Troller trolling plate Looking for a used Happy Troller for a Mercury I/O.. that would be a large size I suppose. -
I jig for lakers in the Penn Yan arm mostly. It is always hit or miss it seems. Last weekend I got three up to 22" and consider that a decent day (day being 6-8 AM usually). Next day hooked one before sunup, then nothing. Following and not hitting is very typical in my experience. In this arm I think the fish are pretty widely distributed, you can see them just about anywhere you look for them. I usually jig in about 100 FOW closer to one side or the other, then again I have taken some from the 'deep' which is 130-140 there. I used to switch up different baits, jigs, spoons etc. but never found anything magic there. Now I just use a 1 OZ jig with a white plastic paddle tail or twister tail. The guy who fishes the bluff from a small pontoon almost every day seems to always catch something.. he's a jigger. Maybe if he's on here he will offer some advice.. -
Turns out 07warrior was correct. Once I got it in the water and lowered the outdrive to operating position, lo and behold the trim works in both directions. But thanks to everyone who responded, it's all useful information..
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I'll have to get in the water and try it. Hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for your inputs.
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What about the solenoid? Amazon says it is "frequently bought together" with the limit switch. Bear in mind, had a reverse polarity event (crossed battery cables ) recently.
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Checking all the electrical stuff on the boat, found the trim buttons will make the outdrive go down, but doesnt respond to pushing the up button. However the trailer button will raise the drive. Is there an easy way to check the switch? Are up and down on separate circuits?
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Remember in Ghostbusters when Spengler tells Venkman "Don't cross the streams!"... because it would lead to Total Protonic Reversal? (Replay here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyaLZHiJJnE. ) Well I sort of did that today in my boat.. I was in a hurry and it was dark under the carport and the battery top was all black.. and on top of all that, I'm just a dummy.. I hooked up red to black and black to red and fried the alternator in my Bayliner. :ninja: Fortunately, the alternator was relatively easy to remove and its at a local shop getting new diodes and capacitors and whatevers. If it's salvageable that is.. My question is this - What else might have been damaged? The main starting cables, the tilt motor power leads, and a ProSport dual bank battery charger were the only things connected. I think the bilge pump is on that battery circuit as well. The trolling motor and fish finder leads weren't connected, and the key was not in the ignition so I'm hoping none of the fuses under the dash were blown. Could the starter be damaged? What else should I inspect/test before putting it in the water and trying to start it? (after I get the alternator back). Thanks guys.
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My club is offering a one-day fly fishing class again this year. Topics include fly fishing equipment and its use, fly types and their usage, knot tying, reading water, basic entomology, fishing dry flies, streamers, and nymphs, catching and releasing fish. There are three fly casting sessions throughout the day as well. Additional details: Location: Campbell-Savona High School (between Corning and Bath on I-86). Adults ($75); Youth 11 yrs and over ($50) Rod/reel/equipment provided if you don't have. Lunch and refreshments included. Prepaid registration is required by Fri., March 25th - contact:Steve Harris 607-973-2509 [email protected] Kirk Klingensmith 607-346-7189 [email protected] The instructors are experienced fly fishers and teachers, and this is our 9th year. You will be hard-pressed to find a better introduction to the sport. Sponsored by the Twin Tiers Five Rivers FFF, a local, non-profit organization and a member of the International Federation of Fly Fishers. www.twintiersfff.org
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Hey guys.. I know lot of you are trollers and/or jiggers, and that's cool, but if you or someone you know has "always wanted to try fly fishing" my fly fishing club holds a "learn to fly fish" class every year, this year on April 2. The details are here: www.twintiersfff.org/docs/Academy2016.pdf. This is our 9th year offering the course and it has been very well received by past participants.
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Alright Newbie question #5: Is it OK to use the wire brush attachment that comes in the cleaning kit on a rifled shotgun barrel? -
Actually I did something very similar. Bought a Remington 870 combo with scope on the slug barrel. Seemed like getting two guns for the price of one, almost. Plus I like the fact I can load it with buckshot and it becomes a home defense weapon.
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Skipper - this has been a real education for me. THanks. Want to recognize Hesselson's in Elmira Heights NY.. when I called about buying a bore sighter they said "bring it in and we'll do it" and they did, for a very small fee.
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I have 2-3/4 rounds only because that's what the saleman handed me at the store. I'm not sure they had 3", seems 20 gauge ammo selections are limited vs. 12 gauge.
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I discovered bore sighters last night, and was thinking I need one, since its a pump shotgun. I was going to ask if you zero at 25 or 100 yds with the bore sighter, but you just answered that (25). And I don't think I would have the presence of mind to aim high or low, easier to just put the crosshairs on the kill zone and not take shots beyond 100 yds. I can't imagine doing that without some serious practice time first. Thanks for your help!
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So Skipper the slug is rising through the line of sight at 25 yds and then dropping below it at 100? I'm assuming line of sight is a straight line whereas the slug path is an arc. Is that the idea? So at 50 yds you would aim a little lower, and at 150, a little higher, if zeroed in as you suggest.
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Newbie question #5: I need to sight in the scope on my new slug gun. What is a good distance to zero it in on? I've read 25 yds, 50 yds, 100 yds. I think maybe 50 yds only because that's the length of my driveway and it seems a reasonable distance for a shot in the woods. Much closer and the deer would spook, much further and I'd be worried about accuracy, obstructions, safety, etc. The gun is a 20 gauge with a rifled barrel and I plan to use Remington Copper Sabots, if that matters.
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Thanks Darkwater - sounds like you are saying leave the scope on and find a way to transport it. I looked at soft cases in the store today and they weren't too much $$. Now for newb question #3: Is there any risk of damaging a shotgun by 'dry firing' it repeatedly? It seems like a good idea to get myself and my daughter to practice shouldering, aiming, and squeezing the trigger some BEFORE getting out on a range with live rounds, but I don't want to inadvertently damage the firing mechanism.
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Is this forum a good place for newbie questions from someone who is new to deer hunting? For instance, today's questions: Once you have sighted in a scoped shotgun (or rifle), do you transport the gun with the scope attached, or take it off? Seems like the adjustments might get out of whack via unmounted/remounting, but leaving it on could result in damage during transport. (Trying to limit my investment at this point, don't have a gun case. But there might be some good deals for Black Friday.) If the action seems a little tight especially from the back/open position, can I lube it with regular machine oil or would something like a spray lithium grease, or maybe graphite, or silicon be best? Thanks. If there is a better forum for questions like this please let me know.