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About yabmob

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  1. Fishing out of Fisherman's Pier on Monday. 60 fow. Trolling crank baits with no luck. Decided to throw out a Monkey Puke spoon. I was letting it out when a Bow hit it 40 feet from the boat and still at the surface. Our only fish on our first time out. A nice way to start the year. Yabmob
  2. Bronte harbor ramp closed because it is under water Yabmob
  3. I can see why that would be a good idea. The stuff sticks like gum to the bottom of my shoe. Imho, the floor is either rivited or screwed in place or both. It should be well fastened due to pounding our boats take on a rough lake. While researching the transom and floor replacement for my boat, I came across the info that the flotation in our boats will keep the boat at or near the surface at best. The difference in floatation between the poured in stuff and the laid in stuff is minimal. If flotation is a huge concern, you could spray foam under the gunnals. The size of the gunnals on these boats would hold a lot of foam. There is a huge section on Iboats on reconstruction of Starcraft boats. It is a great resource to read through. I found lots of info for all the problems I faced when I redid my boat. I have been on Erie with 6 footers and felt totally safe, not comfortable, but safe. On another note. It looks like there is pitting on the inside of the transom. I used alumiweld from Harbor freight to fill in the big pits and to fill in holes from old transducers and junk that the previous owner had mounted on the back of the boat. Make sure you follow the directions for a good result. YouTube was very helpful. Yabmob
  4. The foam is not structural. The Jupitor and Chieftain are of the same size and hull types. They had sheets of foam under the floors. My biggest issue with the pour in foam is that it does not let water flow to the bildge. The foam in these boats will keep them at the surface if swamped. The foam is closed cell. This is essentially mini ping pong balls. Styrofoam SM is closed cell. It is used to insulate basement walls. It won't absorb water. The problem is that it ain't cheap. My Islander has SM on the bottom. This lets any water run past the ribs to the bildge. Pool Noodles also are closed cell. Bought a box of them from Wal-Mart. I sliced and diced them to fill all the voids. I used exterior plywood from Lowes. Marine grade is the best, but it is very expensive. The difference between them is that the Marine grade has less voids in it. I looked at the plywood at Home Depot but it was junk. Looking at the edges, you could see lots of voids. The plywood from Lowes was cheaper and solid. The wood in my transom was 25 years old and untreated. It was rotting on the bottom edges but overall in better shape than I thought it was before I removed it. I laminated the 2 sheets of 3/4 with PL Premium construction adhesive. Once stuck with PL it will never come apart. After shaping and cutting out the key hole I sealed both sides and the edges with Aluthane. 3 or 4 coats. Now the water is unable to sit against the transom because it goes to the bildge. 5400 is great sealant but it is over kill. 4200 is as good a sealant but less of an adhesive. 5400 is considered a permanent adhesive. 4200 cures in 24 hours vs 7 days. Seal everything that goes through the transom. If money is no object, go Marine grade. In my opinion, good fir exterior grade is more than adequate due to the protected locations of our transoms. Yabmob
  5. By the looks of your posts, you are on the US side of the Pond. I am on the North side. I had to get the aluthane delivered to a US address then bring it across the border. I am considering getting more. Yabmob
  6. It will all need to be removed. Check the rivetts on the bottom for loose or missing ones. My Islander had a small hole that the foam hid. The cheap replacement is pool noodles. They are a closed cell foam that is great flotation. It is a messy and frustrating job. I used 3/4 exterior plywood from Lowes. I should have stuck with the 1/2 inch. I replaced the foam with sheets of Styrofoam SM and pool noodles. The foam gets saturated because the water has no way to drain to the bildge. If you need more help let me know. The Holiday is an Islander without the cabin. It actually has more usable space on it for fishing. I am considering trading for one. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  7. Take a look at Aluthane. I re did the transom of my Starcraft Islander 191 and was going to use epoxy until I found Aluthane from Progressive Epoxies. I bought a gallon and did the transom, the floors on both sides and used it as a primer on the outside of the transom. I have fished 3 years with these floors with no ware on the paint. The stuff is awesome. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  8. I don't know how much work you want put into your boat. This is my Islander. I bought it in the fall for $3500. After getting it home, I did a thorough examination. The floors at the back were soft and the lower edges of the transom were a little soft. I probably could have fished it for a year or two safely. We decided to put it in my dad's barn and replace the transom and floors. It took the better part of the winter to do. The forums at iboats are a treasure trove of information on repairing boats. The nice thing about a tin boat is that with simple hand tools you can fix altmost anything. My boat is a 89. At that age, it is common to need to replace the transom. After the winters work, we have had 2 years of great fishing and I expect many more. I put about $1000 into the boat to make it seaworthy. I would be more concerned about the motor than the transom. Lund makes a great boat. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  9. Check the float height. If it is not right the float will continue to put fuel in the bowl and flood the motor, thus the hard starts. After the motor is warme up, pull the flame arrestor and turn off the motor. If you still see gas coming into the carb, you have your culprit. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  10. I love my Islander. I have a 191. Tow it with a GMC Sonoma. If you can find a 22 with the 4.3 and a kicker, you will be set for many years. I have the 3.0 and troll Lake O for less than $20 a day. It's easy to launch and recover. I was on Erie when the forcast was 2 footers with occasional 4s. What a load of bs. We were off point Abino in 4s with occasional 5s. Never had a bit of worry in my Islander. If you want a great trailerable fishing boat you can't beat the Islander. They are also easy to maintain. I bought my Islander after taking water over the bow of the bow rider that I started fishing in. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  11. Some of the older starcrafts have sheet foam in them. It was much easier to replace. I considered going with no foam but thought better. I always cover my boat, but if I forget or get caught in a storm, the water runs freely to the bilge. Like you said , they took the fast and easy way. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  12. I replaced all mine when I did the floor. The main filler pipe was surprisingly expensive. When I removed the foam, I found a small hole in the hull. The foam had contained it, but absorbed a lot of water as well. Now if there is a future leak, I will know. Removing the foam did challenge my patience. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  13. The foam used in the Islander is 2 lb foam. The floatation it provides is to keep the boat near the surface of swamped. There is little or no structural aspect to this foam. While it does provide floatation and sound proofing, it also causes problems. Any water that gets below the floor. Is not able to reach the sump. The foam is a closed cell foam. Just like SM and pool noodles. Replacing the foam (in most cases, waterlogged) allows any water to make its way to the bilge. I found a hole in the hull as well as fuel filler pipes that needed replacing. Replacing the floor with 3/4 gives both added structural ridgitity as well as less flex in the floor. The skirts on the sides need to have the rivits drilled out when you replace the floor. I had no issues replacing them. The floor does go under the cabin bulkhead. The new floor needs to be extended under this bulkhead. I used a oscillating took with a wood saw blade to make the slots under the bulkhead for the new floor. I put 3 coats of Aluthane (a moistur cured urethane) on all sides of both the plywood. It's been 3 years and the floors still look new. The Islander is a fantastic boat. Mine is a 1989. The factory floor and transom lasted 25 years with no waterproofing. I see no reason why the waterproofed replacements shouldn't last another 25 years. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app