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Everything posted by yabmob

  1. Look up Aluthane from epoxyprodrcts.com. used it on the floors and hull of my Islander when I re did the floor. It is not cheap but it goes. A long way. Used one gallon for my floors and transom. Ditto on the foam. Mine was saturated. Removed it and found a small hole below the waterline that I repaired. I was going to top coat the aluthane but I left it and 3 years later the floors look great. Epoxy Products were great to deal with. Answered questions quickly. I did have to ship to a US address because I live in Canada. No big problem as I go to Buffalo often.
  2. I found that when I removed the floor, it ended under the bulkhead for the cabin. In order to install the 3/4 inch, the slot under bulkhead needed to be widened. I used a oscilating tool to open up the slot. Next time, there is one, I would stick with 1/2 inch. The original lasted over 20 years. The original had no coating. I think my new floor will outlast me
  3. Look up aluthane. When I got my islander it had soft floors At the back. I ripped out the floors and found a little water damage at the outside lower edges of the transom. Replacing the transom on these boats is not hard. Check out the starcraft area of iboats. I used aluthane to seal the new transom and deck. I have left the deck with just the aluthane it has lasted 4 summers so far with no hint of wear. I upgraded to 3/4 ply. If I were to do it again I would keep the 1/2 inch. I was shopping for a 22 like yours but got a deal on a 19. You didnt get a deal, you got a steal.
  4. I have a 191 Islander with 2 of the same riggers. It came with 4. I mounted the 2 with the shorter booms about 10 inches in on the transom. I have 2 Scotty rod holders on the sides about 4 feet from back. The riggers are on swivel mounts. I have 2 more Scotty rod holders on the back just near the edges of the dog house. The set up is the 2 riggers deep and 2 dipseys on 10 foot rods on the sides and setup for a leadcore down the chute. I would mount 2 and keep the others as spares.
  5. Thanks for the input My first thought was Lakers when we were on the boat. I had second thoughts when I looked at the pics at home. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  6. Got out on Big O on Sunday afternoon. 50 to 60 fow. Got 2 beauties and lost a larger one right at the boat. I thought that these were Lakers but on a second pool are they Browns? I think that Lakers have more green in them. Caught them all on a dypsy on a 2 setting and 150 feet if line. A silver faceted spoon had all the magic. Let me know your thoughts about Browns or Lakers. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  7. I normally launch from Bronte. I've been going out of Fisherman's under the lift bridge due to Bronte being flooded. Yabmob
  8. That's 3 for me so far. They are not kings, but they will do. Yabmob
  9. Water temp 55 F. Both fish were caught arround 30 feet down in 80 fow. Both went for spoons, 1 silver and blue and the other silver and gold. Both were about the same size. Yabmob
  10. I believe that it is my first Coho. I had heard that people caught Browns and Coho in the spring. Now I believe. Yabmob
  11. This is the same fish from a different camera. Yabmob
  12. Fishing out of Fisherman's Pier on Monday. 60 fow. Trolling crank baits with no luck. Decided to throw out a Monkey Puke spoon. I was letting it out when a Bow hit it 40 feet from the boat and still at the surface. Our only fish on our first time out. A nice way to start the year. Yabmob
  13. Bronte harbor ramp closed because it is under water Yabmob
  14. I can see why that would be a good idea. The stuff sticks like gum to the bottom of my shoe. Imho, the floor is either rivited or screwed in place or both. It should be well fastened due to pounding our boats take on a rough lake. While researching the transom and floor replacement for my boat, I came across the info that the flotation in our boats will keep the boat at or near the surface at best. The difference in floatation between the poured in stuff and the laid in stuff is minimal. If flotation is a huge concern, you could spray foam under the gunnals. The size of the gunnals on these boats would hold a lot of foam. There is a huge section on Iboats on reconstruction of Starcraft boats. It is a great resource to read through. I found lots of info for all the problems I faced when I redid my boat. I have been on Erie with 6 footers and felt totally safe, not comfortable, but safe. On another note. It looks like there is pitting on the inside of the transom. I used alumiweld from Harbor freight to fill in the big pits and to fill in holes from old transducers and junk that the previous owner had mounted on the back of the boat. Make sure you follow the directions for a good result. YouTube was very helpful. Yabmob
  15. The foam is not structural. The Jupitor and Chieftain are of the same size and hull types. They had sheets of foam under the floors. My biggest issue with the pour in foam is that it does not let water flow to the bildge. The foam in these boats will keep them at the surface if swamped. The foam is closed cell. This is essentially mini ping pong balls. Styrofoam SM is closed cell. It is used to insulate basement walls. It won't absorb water. The problem is that it ain't cheap. My Islander has SM on the bottom. This lets any water run past the ribs to the bildge. Pool Noodles also are closed cell. Bought a box of them from Wal-Mart. I sliced and diced them to fill all the voids. I used exterior plywood from Lowes. Marine grade is the best, but it is very expensive. The difference between them is that the Marine grade has less voids in it. I looked at the plywood at Home Depot but it was junk. Looking at the edges, you could see lots of voids. The plywood from Lowes was cheaper and solid. The wood in my transom was 25 years old and untreated. It was rotting on the bottom edges but overall in better shape than I thought it was before I removed it. I laminated the 2 sheets of 3/4 with PL Premium construction adhesive. Once stuck with PL it will never come apart. After shaping and cutting out the key hole I sealed both sides and the edges with Aluthane. 3 or 4 coats. Now the water is unable to sit against the transom because it goes to the bildge. 5400 is great sealant but it is over kill. 4200 is as good a sealant but less of an adhesive. 5400 is considered a permanent adhesive. 4200 cures in 24 hours vs 7 days. Seal everything that goes through the transom. If money is no object, go Marine grade. In my opinion, good fir exterior grade is more than adequate due to the protected locations of our transoms. Yabmob
  16. By the looks of your posts, you are on the US side of the Pond. I am on the North side. I had to get the aluthane delivered to a US address then bring it across the border. I am considering getting more. Yabmob
  17. It will all need to be removed. Check the rivetts on the bottom for loose or missing ones. My Islander had a small hole that the foam hid. The cheap replacement is pool noodles. They are a closed cell foam that is great flotation. It is a messy and frustrating job. I used 3/4 exterior plywood from Lowes. I should have stuck with the 1/2 inch. I replaced the foam with sheets of Styrofoam SM and pool noodles. The foam gets saturated because the water has no way to drain to the bildge. If you need more help let me know. The Holiday is an Islander without the cabin. It actually has more usable space on it for fishing. I am considering trading for one. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  18. Take a look at Aluthane. I re did the transom of my Starcraft Islander 191 and was going to use epoxy until I found Aluthane from Progressive Epoxies. I bought a gallon and did the transom, the floors on both sides and used it as a primer on the outside of the transom. I have fished 3 years with these floors with no ware on the paint. The stuff is awesome. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  19. I don't know how much work you want put into your boat. This is my Islander. I bought it in the fall for $3500. After getting it home, I did a thorough examination. The floors at the back were soft and the lower edges of the transom were a little soft. I probably could have fished it for a year or two safely. We decided to put it in my dad's barn and replace the transom and floors. It took the better part of the winter to do. The forums at iboats are a treasure trove of information on repairing boats. The nice thing about a tin boat is that with simple hand tools you can fix altmost anything. My boat is a 89. At that age, it is common to need to replace the transom. After the winters work, we have had 2 years of great fishing and I expect many more. I put about $1000 into the boat to make it seaworthy. I would be more concerned about the motor than the transom. Lund makes a great boat. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
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