yabmob

Check the float height. If it is not right the float will continue to put fuel in the bowl and flood the motor, thus the hard starts. After the motor is warme up, pull the flame arrestor and turn off the motor. If you still see gas coming into the carb, you have your culprit. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Some of the older starcrafts have sheet foam in them. It was much easier to replace. I considered going with no foam but thought better. I always cover my boat, but if I forget or get caught in a storm, the water runs freely to the bilge. Like you said , they took the fast and easy way. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I replaced all mine when I did the floor. The main filler pipe was surprisingly expensive. When I removed the foam, I found a small hole in the hull. The foam had contained it, but absorbed a lot of water as well. Now if there is a future leak, I will know. Removing the foam did challenge my patience. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

The foam used in the Islander is 2 lb foam. The floatation it provides is to keep the boat near the surface of swamped. There is little or no structural aspect to this foam. While it does provide floatation and sound proofing, it also causes problems. Any water that gets below the floor. Is not able to reach the sump. The foam is a closed cell foam. Just like SM and pool noodles. Replacing the foam (in most cases, waterlogged) allows any water to make its way to the bilge. I found a hole in the hull as well as fuel filler pipes that needed replacing. Replacing the floor with 3/4 gives both added structural ridgitity as well as less flex in the floor. The skirts on the sides need to have the rivits drilled out when you replace the floor. I had no issues replacing them. The floor does go under the cabin bulkhead. The new floor needs to be extended under this bulkhead. I used a oscillating took with a wood saw blade to make the slots under the bulkhead for the new floor. I put 3 coats of Aluthane (a moistur cured urethane) on all sides of both the plywood. It's been 3 years and the floors still look new. The Islander is a fantastic boat. Mine is a 1989. The factory floor and transom lasted 25 years with no waterproofing. I see no reason why the waterproofed replacements shouldn't last another 25 years. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I replaced the floor and the transom on my 191 Islander. Used exterior grade 3/4 inch from Lowe's. Found it was cheaper and better plywood than HD. Remove all the foam. [very messy job] replace foam with Styrofoam SM and pool noodles. Look up Aluthane. Use it to coat all the wood. The original floor was 1/2 inch. The new one is 3/4. Sent from my LG-H812 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Got out of Bronte on Friday May 15 around 7:30 am. We went 5 for 7. First hook ups was a double header off riggers set at 55 feet with a depth of 140. The hot lure was a green and black J plug. the other was a purple and white Matrix spoon. Caught 4 kings and 1 laker. Saw lots of active fish in the 150 depth. We got the laker and one king at 125 feet. 5 nice fish in 3 hours. What a great way to start the season.

I have used regular aluminum rivits. Drill out just the head of the loose rivets and punch out the rest of the old rivit. Try not to redrill the hole in the boat and make it larger. Use the largest rivet that will fit the hole. I coat the end of the rivet with 3M 5200 or 4200. After you have seated the new rivet, coat the rivet with 5200 on the outside to seal. 5200 is strong and lasts forever. It does take up to a week to fully cure. If you are in more of a hurry use the 4200 as it is a fast cure but not as strong. I do agree with lineman49 that the closed end rivets are the best fix. I was doing my repairs on a 191 Starcraft Islander in the winter and have had no problems.