guffins fisherman

As of right now, all seems to be open and barely usable.  Henchen's is open and running.  You will need boots and maybe even waders at all launches though. 

Maybe some others have heard different.  I would not be surprised at this point. Water is beyond high.  Water is full of debris.  Be careful.

Not sure about camping.

Matt

What about using a piece of the synthetic decking? Sure it will cost more, but is very stable, is easy to work with, will last forever and you have a pick of some colors that might set up nicely with your boat. Just a thought.

No, it's a regular 2x8.  Check the end grain before you buy.  Get as straight an end grain as you can.  Pressure treated will warp bad as those timbers come from center of trees.  (They cup, crack & shrink bad over time)  .
 
Tom B.
(LongLine)
 

I will take them if still available.
Sent you a PM.

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Just for fun, I went right to their website. They have a few pair 40% off right now. I am in no way affilited with WM. Just putting it out there.

FYI some West Marine models have a lifetime warranty. If you watch them closely they go on sale periodically. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive. I have two pair of their bino's and have no complaints.

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FYI some West Marine models have a lifetime warranty. If you watch them closely they go on sale periodically. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive. I have two pair of their bino's and have no complaints.

Sent from my moto z3 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Bite has been really hit or miss. Some get a few, some strike out. High water keeps the temp all over the map. As far as debris, I was at the cottage today and saw a really large log/RR tie/timber floating into guffin bay. Gonna be wild for a while.

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Water has gone up considerably since early May, and continues to rise. All launches require boots to launch and keep feet dry. As far as debris, I have to imagine stuff is getting floated all the while, so be careful and be mindful of land owners with your boat wakes near shore.

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Water levels are high again, so the creek is good.  Follow your nav. buoys all the way out, you'll be fine.  They are small and trying to submerge due to high water, so go slow until you are well clear of shoal on right and boulders on left at mouth of creek.

What are you looking to get for the trailer? Any pics of it?

I run Big Papa bags and love them.  A far as putting them out by yourself, I would say maybe put the boat in neutral and put the bags in, try to sink/fill them as best you can and put her in gear and watch them to make sure they fill up once moving again.  That way you won't veer to one side at first.  IDK.  Just a thought.

There is a 30' Penn Yan for sale in Henderson. Looks to be a little high, but I am not a Penn Yan expert. Ad is on CL. I am looking for a 26'. Hard to come by.

Three step, more if you can find it.

How many steps depends on the age, strength and flexibility of the person hoisting themselves out of the water.

Look at it this way, a lot of fisherman are repainting and trying to revive their NK28's in many ways to keep them going. They are that good. Hard to come by the old color and paint schemes, and often imitated. If someone offered me a handful of the 28's in the Black and Silver, I would be indebted for a long time. I have painted some, but they don't last as long.

Gotta be April 1st.

While my son was swimming at Mexico HS, I drove down to the Mexico point launch. It was all clear of ice as of Thursday night. The lake outside the river was all clear too. There were small chunks of ice floating around, but nothing major. Floating docs were not in yet, FYI.

24 minutes ago, horsehunter said:

When trolling for browns is it preferable to use inline boards as opposed to big double boards?

I am sure others will comment, but it has been my experience that trolling for Spring Browns is best done with the big double boards. This is due to the nature of the hard hits and runs to and from the boat and fishing really skinny water usually.  The big boards are just better for this purpose due to only fighting the fish once on the line.  The possibility of multiple fish is greater and double boards are way easier for that too.  Would inlines work?  Sure.  Spring Browns are just so feisty, they might make a mess of your spread with inlines.  If you were only one or two per side you'd probably be ok, but any more and you are flirting with a mess.

It is a year newer than mine, so that means it has the FIST hull.  A definite good thing.  Is it the 5.7 LX?  Same power as mine.  Pretty tough engine.  Probably needs a carb rebuild or adjustment to start.  Ignition tune-up too.  Plugs are a bear on the 5.7.  Be careful.  If you're going to troll with her, get that carb dialed, or it will load up bad.  Put big bags out the sides and keep them on short leads, or she will wander horrible.  Weight in the bow helps too.  

Hope that helps.

Matt.

Fish in thermocline. Set up on that.

Truth is, some hulls/brands must be barrier coated if they are to be slipped, some do not necessarily need it. It depends on the quality and craftsmanship in laying up the hull and the application of the gelcoat. The first boat I slipped was slipped before I owned it.  It was covered in small blisters.  That was the indication I needed to barrier coat before painting.  The next boat I owned was never coated/painted and was slipped all its life.  Not a blister to be found.  I simply was meticulous in the prep of the hull and painted it.  The paint has held and still no blisters.  I touch up each Spring.  If you are unsure, and do not want to take your chances, barrier coating, bottom painting is the way to go.  It is just a tedious and expensive process.  Bottom painting at all is a tedious, expensive and backbreaking job.  They both require a lot of prep, and the better you prep the hull, the better your work will last.  For what its worth, expect to lose a little fuel economy and top end speed with the soft, thick ablatives.  I opted to use a hard, racing ant-fouling paint the second time around.  I really am happy with it.  

Good luck.  Hope this helps.

Matt

I have used both the TX22 and the OR12's.  I honestly see no difference in them.  

Looking at it, I would give that another year. I don't see much white shining through from your gel coat. Hard to say without getting my hands on it.

Ablative bottom paints are very sensitive as to what you put them on, and what you are putting on them.  Some paints can be recoated over with only certain types of paint, while others can only go over certain types.  It would be really helpful if you knew what was on there.  Maybe your marina tech can help you.  It would be normal for it to come off somewhat easily if you went after it with a scrub brush.  They are kinda designed to do that.  They ablate or sluff off microscopically with the slime that grows.  If your current paint is covering the vast majority of the hull still, send it.  If it is getting thin, this might be the last season before a recoat.  If you can see your gelcoat over most of the area, it is time.  Jamestown Distributors, West Marine, etc. have a ton of reading you can do about bottom paints, and they sell every brand under the sun.  Good luck.

Matt

We caught this beast trolling for walleye in 30 FOW outside of Chaumont Bay. It took a deep Bomber.

Ideally, the holders mounted horizontally would be used for running your inline boards.  The way you have them set up on the rail is perfect.  Additionally, running big boards with a tow-line, you would ideally have your holders in a vertical orientation on your gunwale well clear of your towline for the reasons mentioned above.