guffins fisherman

A little bit of a road trip for you, but local enough.

https://fatnancystackle.com/collections/trout-species/products/fish-hawk-x2-trolling-system?_pos=5&_sid=3b32a0727&_ss=r

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PM Sent.

65# Powerpro for my divers. Gets some fleas but not anymore than wire. Way more forgiving on your mono not if, but when they wrap each other. No issues this season.

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Fish hawk.

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If you want to run both at the same time, I would make sure to stick with the long booms to increase the width of your spread. With that said, there is a lot of leverage created by those long booms. I like the idea of a board across the transom, or just forward of the transom on your boat. Seems as though it would the most durable and easy way to get things there. Also, that system would be very easy and quick to remove.

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I reg'd a 14' tinnie without papers. I had to get as close as I could to make, model and year and have a sheriff come out and sign an affidavit stating it was accurate. He basically was uninterested and just signed the thing and left. This one was made way before HINs were a thing. I then had to have the DMV assign me an original reg number and reg it that way. If I remember correctly, I had to have the gentleman that gave it to me sign a form stating he did so. He was old and didn't really understand all the fuss but did it for me anyway. Kindo a pain, but worth it in the end. It an old Sea King and built like a tank.

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No. Pretty sure separating fuel lines at the filter will fit your needs. Filters your fuel and inhibits sucking one or the other dry.

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I see. A bit more of a challenge, but what better project than your own fishing machine to study up and pick away at over the winter if you can? Most new stuff comes with a diagram and specs on how it needs to be installed and applied.

This forum is full of previous threads about this very project, and members that have forgotten more than I know about wiring a boat. You won't be alone if you want to forge ahead.

see i have no idea what any of that even is lol. i don’t know anything about wiring/electrical components. maybe i should just take it in?


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Not sure how a Lund is wired, but it would be worth you time and effort to put in a battery switch and fuse/breaker panel for your riggers. At the very least a buss bar dedicated to your riggers and other accessories.

The switch will allow you to run both, or just one battery, and a panel for the accessories will be way more serviceable, clean and safer.

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Put the weight on the walleye boards all the way to the back. They will run nose up, still pull the same, but will not dive nearly as bad. They also are more sensitive with the nose up.

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Amazon has good prices on Cannon track, holders, cannon rigger pedestals and bert's holders. All compatible with each other.

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To run four riggers, you would likely have to run two down the chute, and two out to the sides with wingers or extra long booms.  Wingers would be better.  Being that you have/run a kicker, your port chute rigger could be problematic, but doable.  Just need to be careful and watch it like a hawk.  One of the main reasons charter fisherman like inboards.  The prop is hidden.  Although kickers are more common on inboards nowadays. I am assuming your 196 is an 8'ish beam.  Pretty narrow for four riggers.  Doable, but the chute riggers need to be watched.  You also need to make sure your cables and counters are exactly the same.  If the chute riggers are not set properly on a narrow beam they will tangle underwater on a turn.  Never a good thing, then you're trying to untangle them reaching over the stern and around the big outboard. Not fun.  My Shamrock is 8' beam, inboard, and I chose to run just 3 riggers.  1. More space at the transom to avoid tangles and net the fish. 2. I find once I put out 3 riggers and a couple dipsys, I have enough to keep me busy.  More isn't always better.   Better targeting is always better.  Maybe just try the third rigger(starboard side) and see if you like what your spread is doing.  I know it looks a little wonky, but actually fishes really well, and makes a perfect place to run your fishhawk, if you want to.   If you think you need to, you can always add the fourth rigger later. 

I have run both extensively. I currently have both. The cannons are a better dipsy holder due to the one-handed operation. Up or down.

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Def. some bags on each side of the boat.  Also, some brands of GPS(Lowrance) have a speed that jumps all over the place.  I installed a Garmin that seems to be a lot less jumpy.  I also use a Furuno GP-39 for speed and location.  The Furuno speed seems to be much more stable and predictable.  I turned the speed off on the Lowrance, and only use it for my chart.  

Duck hunters run their outboards into January.  The biggest hurdle is the launch getting icy.  Some will simply tip the motor all the way down before it freezes as soon as they pull the trailer out.  Some will have a buddy keep the motor running at idle until it just exits the water on the trailer and then shut it down.  Modern outboards gravity drain really well.

FWIW, I have been using 65# braid all season on my dipsy rods pulling a mag dipsy with the ring on it. The fleas have not been all that bad. Maybe the fleas have not been bad this year, but I have been very happy with it. On the occasion I get a tangle with the rigger, the braid has played much nicer with the mono than wire. No chafing, no cut offs. I will say the braid has been very slippery to untangle though. Also, I have been using the stock eyelet tip on the dipsy rod, so that's a plus too.

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I noticed it too. I just figured it was too deep for side scan to be effective and went back to trad. or downscan sonars. I do like the looks of it in shallower water.

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They will do 12's. I did it for years. Not fast on the retrieve, but will do it time and again. If you motor down, they will do that faster too. I always clutched mine down though.

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I have run braid and wire. I actually see the benefits of both, but the negatives of wire outweigh the negatives of braid. So braid it is for my boat. We run 65# PowerPro with 30# mono as backer. I think I put a few hundred of backer on. It works really well. Fleas are fleas no matter what you do, and no twilli tip to mess with.

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Properly functioning Mag10HS have autostop at the surface built in. You shouldn't have to set anything if they are working properly.

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Very warm water along the mountain. Loaded with fish, but just a lot of loafing. Trench warfare is coming.

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I know two people that have a 20 Yamaha on a Baha 28. Pushes it around just fine. Both have custom made rigid brackets in he center at the waterline.

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As far as I know, Lowrance will not do it. I cannot find it on my Garmin Echomap Plus. Maybe the higher end plotters will do it. It would be interesting to see a list of machines that will do it.

guffins,
Many of the plotters we use have the ability to overlay TDs on the charting screen. This is much more useful then lat long on many levels. I will dig a little deeper into my Garmin Ultra to see if that feature is offered.

I have looked and looked.  If you can find an old fishing hot spots map, they had the TD's on them.  Funny thing is, a lot of fisherman don't even know what TD's are.  We use TD's extensively here in the eastern basin.  I know I may get hammered for this, but Bill Saiff III introduced me to the system and how it aligns perfectly with the structure of the eastern basin of Lake Ontario.  Furuno GP-39's will overlay TD's and give you your numbers too.

A switch and two batts for sure. Especially with that small kicker not charging.

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