Buckmaster7600

Point your rod tip at the dip set put you thumb on the spool and yank the rod towards you. Keeping the rod pointed at the dipsey, if that doesn’t trip the release you have them too tight. There’s no stretch in wire so by doing this you’re putting pressure directly on the release and not letting your rod soak it up.


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Tried it, went back to trilene.


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Thanks CK3080, nice set up. I will check a few out.Thank you for the pictures, always helpful.

I can't believe the Striper CC needs 35 inches of water to float. How can that be?

They are a very deep bowed boat, they use the same hull for their walkarounds.

 

 

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I have a friend that has a striper 230 dual console and it is an amazing boat, probably the best glass trolling setup I have seen around that size. They make a 20’ model as well.

 

 

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My fear would be them spinning on the rail, a piece of 550 cord with a clip on it is very cheap insurance if you’re worried about losing a setup.


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I mark rainbows regularly in a small lake by me. Our number 1 rig is a small dipsey down the chute with about 30ft of line out. We run riggers and Inlines but that dipsey down the chute out fishes everything else combined right below the prop wash.


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When I was looking for a new boat the targa was on my list but with the rod lockers on top of the gunnels I couldn’t figure out a way to set it up with tracks. In my opinion it’s a terrible design on a big water boat. I’m curious to see how you set it up, keep us posted.


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Check/change your primer bulb and the connector for fuel line to motor.


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This day and age I don’t think there’s a bad engine, I would base my decision of what dealer is closest, what dealer is the best to work with and price.

The G2 Etecs are impressive but I’m not a Evinrude guy.

The v8 Mercs have serious potential

Yamaha, Honda’s and Suzuki’s have a great reputation.


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I'll just throw this out there - let me know which you think is best and what features you think are missing from each. I'm actually working on designing my own now, you sir could influence the development early on.

If the four boats I fish in most we all have different rodholders, I have cannons, my buddy big Jon’s, his Bil has traxtech and my other buddy has berts. I like the cannons the best with berts a close 2nd don’t care for the traxtech but would use them if that’s all there was and would have many complaints I absolutely hate the big jons.

If cannons had one more click down past 90 they would be perfect.


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I fish very similar style to you and I loved my smoker craft phantom, if I liked the etec and steering wheel I would still have it. But I learned the hard way that I’m a tiller guy.

The wast coast style offers a lot of advantages if you’re mostly trolling especially with riggers. But you do give up some comfort while running.


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Here’s my winter/ice out rig.


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A cheater is a section of line “ I use 8-10ft clipped on your main between rod tip and release. You can use them as a slider just clip it on and it will go to the bow in the line between cannon ball and rod tip or you can use a fixed slider, half hitch a rubber band to your main line at your desired depth to get your spread between mainline lure and cheater. With both when a fish is in especially a king you will see a very violent hit and it will usually release just be quick because they’re a lot of slack. If I’m fishing down riggers I always have a cheater on it’s a free lure and is super easy.


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Have used chamberlains and they are the best stacker I have found. Haven’t stacked in a while and likely never will again. Run cheaters “fixed or sliders” and you’ll likely catch more fish and it’s way less work and it frees up rods for dipseys or junk lines.


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Thanks for the tips guys. I’ve noticed that there’s a model that High Seas puts out that has the bottom tube more horizontal to the water for dipseys. Seems to be practical. Any issues running dipseys on yours?


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I thought about them as well but I can’t imagine it being much fun trying to get the rod out of the holder with a fish on.


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These are what I have, they’re the cheapest ones I found and I couldn’t be happier with them.

http://www.madsdocks.com/shop/Item/pmpoletree


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Shaman tdr’s cheap and nearly indestructible.

 

 

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Could you please explain what a thumper rod is? Please??


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Wire dipsey rod with a 1lb meatball on a 3way swivel running down the chute. The action of the rod tells you your speed very well.

I believe they were very popular years ago before all the new technology.


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Thumper rod. I run one 95% of the time.


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I have otter boats with double keels and run in lines most of the time. Only time I run big boards is for spring Browns and landlocks when were running 4-5 lines a side.


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Thats a great idea! 
My new boat has 15HP Merc Pro Kicker w/controls at the helm. Going to see how it adjusts with the throttle control before adding a remote. Have yet to run it.
My old boat has a 9.9 Pro Kicker with a Pro Troll II and it works just fine. 

Pro trolls work great on carbed motors where the servo is only opening a butterfly. Whith and efi the servo has to open the throttle body against a lot more spring pressure. I think that’s why I have had to much problems with a throttle control on my zuki.


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Evinrude has what they call Micro control on the 15HP HO kicker. +/- button increase or decreases by 50 RPM increments.
Direct injection 2 stroke. Maybe other manufactures will catch on.  
 
 

I hope others will catch on! If the Etecs were a real kicker and not a detuned 25hp I would own one. They are too big and heavy for my boat.

The thing that kills me is that the efi motors have the computer there, even if it’s 500-750$ add on I don’t know of many that wouldn’t want it. A factory toggle on the dash would be far superior to the aftermarket options we have available now.

I have one, it’s ran flawlessly has about 600hrs on it. It’s not as quite as my Yamaha. The problem I have had is with a throttle control, tried 2 different brands and neither worked great.

I can’t believe no company has made one with a built in troll control on a kicker. Even the new Mercs efi’s wont have it.


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I'm a perfect world I want to unload with a roller trailer and load with a bunk.

My boat has a bunk trailer and will just about load itself if I don't back up too far. Tuning a trailer is very important for both roller and bunk trailers to load boats straight.


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Have them tuned by someone that knows what they're doing and enjoy the new rig. One thing I always did when trolling with two stroke is run the snot out of them after trolling long hours to clean them out. Don't know if it is necessary but it's what I was told to do by an old boat mechanic and never had a bit of problems.


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