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garrymny

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Posts posted by garrymny

  1. I bought a Grady White Bimini 220 with a 175 outboard Evinrude on it. 1983 boat. Motor is 1993 with low time. $6500. I thought it was a good deal, and I still do. I replaced the transom this spring which I did myself. It cost roughly $2000. But at least now I know what I have. With any fiberglass used boat you run the risk of rotted plywood in the transom and it is difficult to know until you start ripping it out. But the equivalent boat new would probably be almost $70 or $80k. I put in a good FF, autopilot, and fishhawk. So I guess I have about 11k into it. It is a terrific fishing boat with plenty of room on the deck. It is a closed bow and has a nice soft top.

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  2. June is always one of the tougher months. More gizmos and different techniques get deployed in June by trollers than any other time of the year. Reasons.....
    - The water is changing. With surface water temps warming and spreading out offshore, fish have more options to find preferred temp range. 
    - We still get East winds. 
    - Alewives are spawning in the shallows 
    - There are still alewives and kings in winter pattern on the bottom 
    - spring-spawning steelhead are in a recovery lethargic mood often feeding on surface bugs rather than chase alewives. 
     
    Things to to do and try ...
    - Cover as much of the water column as you can. Put as many downriggers out you can deploy with cheaters
    - In June, use da spoon
    - Fish slow on downtemp. 
    - Chase the fish- with alewives spawning in close, kings will move in and out in feeding forays during low light ie. if you start in 150’ and don’t see anything on graph, you might see a different picture later in the day ( I don’t get up early in June). 
    - Offshore, fish can still be caught in the top 20’
     
    others can add more. You Oak boys can talk about your goofy five-of-diamonds spoon lol. 
     
    Thanks for the information. I suspect you are right about low light times being better fishing in the shallows. I wish I was into night fishing.

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  3. This is my 4th year Fishing for Salmon.

    Gary, how long have you been chasing salmon if you don’t mind me asking? The reason I ask is I need perspective on your years-in so I can answer appropriately. If you just started trolling last year, you started your trolling career on a year that will go down as the greatest in recent memory so your perspective of the norm may be “off”. 


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  4. I am hoping to get theories from Charter Captains and Experienced Anglers as to why this has been a tough summer- June and July for Salmon. The reports I have seen, as well as my own experience shows this to be a hit or miss year with inconsistent results. It seems in May, reports were good unfortunately I was replacing the transom on my boat and could not get out until late May early June. Tough year. Why? Weather?, Current? Winds? Bait? Are the Salmon along the Canadian Border? I just seems to me that everything is a month behind, buy why?

  5. Last I knew it was a Free country. If I or the original poster) want to put a bumper sticker on my truck, a sign in my yard, or a banner on my boat, that is for nobody else to decide. Unfortunately, I have been forced to refrain putting any Trump stuff anywhere because there are too many nutcase VIOLENT Democrats out there. And that is the problem these days: intolerance of an opposing views to the point of violence, humiliation, and abuse.

     
    Exactly [emoji6] 


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    • Like 3
  6.  
    Fished 7/2 . 170-270 fow. Out in 230 big trash line in water . Went 5-6 . Riggers down 75-90 took fish . 10 color lead core took a steely. Fishing was tough didn’t mark many fish .
    7/3 fished till noon same area 0-2 . Dropped both of them . One on dipsey 240 FF, the other 10 color with spoon. Tough fishing . IMG_3310.thumb.JPG.1834f317ddf0bd60b6c6f30e354330a1.JPGIMG_3309.thumb.JPG.5cf6ab261e7a948e655096c62401926c.JPGIMG_3308.thumb.JPG.8638cd41b0db187f4050300e7d617344.JPGIMG_3306.thumb.JPG.cced9f67ef5cc127f22cd597b30bc760.JPGIMG_3305.thumb.JPG.ecb1dcd086a6aee97364bb2aef22d467.JPG
     
     
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    Nice banner.

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  7. Weird, slow year continues for me. Started at 0630 in 80 FOW. Marked quite a bit of bait balls, and some fish "hooks". No bites at all after about 1 1/2 to two hours! Interestingly the fish we marked were not by the bait. They were down 50 feet. So, we pulled everything up motored out to 340 FOW. It would have taken too long to troll north with the heavy wave action out there today. To much rocking and rolling. There was a heavy current, waves from the Northeast all morning, so getting a smooth ride was tough today. We had to go into the waves or with them of course. I watched for a surface temperature break all the way out but saw nothing but a one degree change at most. We caught only one Salmon, on a dipsey 112 feet out. It took a stud fly with spin doctor. This was at 340 FOW. We had a two dipseys, a 10 color, and two riggers out all the while. We quit at 1100. Several other boats, and the folks at the ramp had a similar "slow" report. This year has really been a disappointment for me compared to the last three. HIT AND MISS, and I've been missing mostly.

     

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  8. I wonder if anyone makes it for okuma reels?

    About a year ago I bought a Penn 345 on E-Bay and it came with this gizmo:image.png.e48f1052c5aa4cb46a1b1aed7771ec78.png
    I loaded the reel with 1000 19 strand + 300 weighted steel Let it out with a one pound weight at the end in order to reel it back up and have the line nice and tight on the reel. I thought I might as well try to use the adapter to see if it does anything. And boy, does it ever. Gone are the efforts to have somebody else reel in the 500 copper and have him get a lame arm. these things work! I have them on all my Penn reels for copper ,wire and leadcore and the cordless drill has now become a standard part of my fishing gear. The lines come in faster now than they go out.
    They are for sale on the Electra-mate website for about $25. It's a bit stiff for a stainless bolt , but definitely worth it. I have no financial interest in this thing.
     
     
     
    The Turn-A-Mate Crank Adapter is a specially machined stainless steel device, which replaces the handle screw on big game reels and is designed so that the reel can be driven either with a simple cordless drill or the 412-T and 440-T Turn-A-Mate Drive. Please note, however, that a cordless drill is not designed for use in a saltwater environment as is found in ocean fishing and the life of the drill will be very short and unreliable. As such, a cordless drill is not recommended for serious fishermen.
     
    Model 11-932PD Fits Penn 320 Gti, 330 Gti, 340 & 345, 113H, 113HL, 113HLW 4/0. Penn International 20T, 30T & 30TW, 50T & 50TW

    Model 11-516PD Fits Penn 114, 114H, 114HL, 114HLW 6/0,115L 9/0, 116L 12/0, 117L 14/0. International 80T & 80TW

    Model 11-8M75DD Fits Daiwa 600H 6/0 & 900H 9/0
    Price: $24.99


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  9.  

    Went out in the morning, about 615 am. Went East towards stack. Started in 106 FOW. Trolled for half mile or mile then cut to North. Trolled out to 350 then back into 150 again. Very slow day for us. We had a 209 cooper. A 300 copper. A 10 color lead. Riggers at various depths from 55 to 100. Two dipsey rods at 150 to 180. Tried varying speed using the hunt mode of the itroll. Used spoons and FF. Saw no bait balls. Saw a few fish not many. All we caught was 4 steelhead. At the ramp another fisherman told me they had a great day west of the harbor. They got 18. They found best was 160 to 260. But they said the fish were only down 15 to 20 feet! Maybe that's why we didn't mark many They were using 5 color leadcore and riggers down 20 or 30. I guess we probably fished too deep. Heading for Erie tomorrow for walleyes although my hopes are not high because I seldom do well out of the Catt until August.

     

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    • Like 1
  10.  

    Ok, when I did my Transom I cut both the fish hawk and FF transducer cables. YES you can splice them. In the following pictures you will see how.1. cut the Cable. 2. Split and remove the outercase insulation. 3. On each end, cut the wires so your solder splices will be staggered. This means for example on one end cut the yellow wire long, on the other, cut the yellow wire short and so on. 4. Slide a large 1/2 inch heat shrink over one end. Slide it back well out of the way. 5. Slide a 1/8 or 3/32 inch heat shrink over each splice you will make. 6. Strip and tin each wire with solder. 7. Solder each wire together. Do not twist them. Just heat and lay along side each other. 8. Heat shrink each wire as you go. 9 put the shields back over the wires. Solder the shield strands, and just wrap or encase the wires with the foil. 10. Slide 1/2 inch heat shrink over. Done. I will post pictures that will show each step. I even had to splice in 6 feet of cable for the FF transducer. No problem, just an extra splice. Pictures will be added in replies. They will not load in the edit function.

     

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