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FishingFool34

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Posts posted by FishingFool34

  1. 16 hours ago, troutman10 said:

    Was looking to purchase some of these but maybe it would be easier to buy everything separate and put it together?

    I'm sure that would work fine, but personally I won't buy anything from DSP. I don't agree with their positions on a few things firearms related and therefore won't do business with them. If you want pre-rigged stuff checkout clearh2otackle on ebay. They sell a lot of pre-rigged gear and will custom spool any reel you buy from them as well. You could get the same prerigged combo that Dicks is selling for much cheaper too.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/184982323137?hash=item2b11ce3fc1:g:eOcAAOSwEtZg0jEc

  2. 1 hour ago, Take_Him said:

    Sorry guys.  I am sure this has been thoroughly discussed before but I can't find an old thread.  Do you connect wire directly to your diver with a snap swivel or do you terminate the wire with a barrel swivel and have some sort of mono in front of the diver?  Setups would be used on Lake O.  Thanks in advance.


    Like said above, wire to snap swivel directly to diver, then leader of your chosen length after diver to the lure. Keep in mind if your leader length after the diver is more than 6ft or so (depending on the size of your boat), you will likely have to hand line the fish in. There are ways around this but they require different rigging (ie. S-clip, slide divers, etc)

  3. I wouldn't mess with it at all, a 2021 with less than 20hrs should be running perfectly. I would be headed right back to where you bought it for a warranty claim. Don't risk messing with something that could end up getting your warranty voided!

  4. 40 minutes ago, troutman10 said:

    The main motor is a 115 hp merc and the kicker is a merc. I'll have to check to make sure the connections are the same. Might have been thinking too much. :-P

    Is there a fuel/water separator in there someplace? I would want to run my kicker fuel line out of the filter rather than directly out of the tank. You can get a filter housing with a single in, dual outlet and not even have to use a 'T'. If you don't have one, they are pretty cheap (~$100) and good insurance against potentially having issues out on the water. 

  5. 1 hour ago, CtownChris said:

    Yes, my plan is to use the large inline boards, I have an Amish Outfitters Salmon Duckie for this. I was watching a You Tube and they said if you use #50 braid behind the weighted Steel it will continue to sink. I think it was 50 further down for every 100ft more with the braid backer.  Still attach to inline board and adjust depth somewhat. I plan to keep it simple this year and not get carried away playing with backer length too much. I can see where a line counter would help but I know Capt's who use this method without a line counter and know the amount of line per pull. I am sure it is approximate. LOL


    I'm not sure if it will continue to sink with 50lb braid backing, I have heard that is the case when using the 19 strand torpedo wire as backing though. But I wouldn't want to try and attach wire to an inline board so I have never personally tried that method. If I wanted to go deeper I would have  400/450/500ft setups but personally I don't run anything longer than 300ft. I do alot of C&R and have found most fish won't survive after a fight on anything longer than 300 copper/WS. Not to mention it gets less and less enjoyable for the person reeling it in. That's just my opinion though. 

  6. 10 hours ago, rolmops said:

    I run my weighted steel on convectors as well. Make sure that you have line counter reels. That way you have more depth control.


    I never saw the need for counters on a leadcore/copper/WS reel, I always let out all the weighted line that's on the reel. The line is so thick you will never get an accurate number anyway. If I want to run a shallower setup, I use a  200 steel instead of a 300 or a 8 color instead of a 10. I run inline planer boards so I need to let all of the weighted line out so I can attach the boards to the braid backing.  

  7. Just now, MidWestBest said:

    Thank you yourself and the gentleman above you have helped a lot. I also want to add just so its clear, I actually found the site while trying to do a little research on what the reels are going for and the link led me to the classifieds section so I thought this would be the perfect place to post. I thinking stumbling upon the site like that gave me a different impression. I didnt even realize I could make a post just to ask you guys what you’re favorite color to throw is or to just say hello untill after I posted the pic. Sorry for the trouble fellas. Maybe Ill start a new post this evening taking your advice into consideration. Thank you. Also, when I make a new post for the same items should I just switch this post to sold or leave it open and let it die on its own?


    You can go back and edit your original post here and add/subtract any information you want. Classifieds are just a small part of this site, there is a ton of good information here and a lot of very experienced fisherman as well. Everyone from the occasional 1-2x a year guys, to weekend warriors, to active charter captains and tournament guys. There likely isn't a question you could ask that someone here wouldn't be able to answer or at the very least point you in the right direction. 

    • Thanks 1
  8. 14 minutes ago, MidWestBest said:

    Im sorry for misunderstanding this site then? I thought a picture would show exactly what I have, I simply dont WANT to get rid of them but my current vehicle is forcing my hand. I figured the guys here would see what I have and if they were interested they would then pm me to negotiate final price and shipping. Look guys Im no scammer just a broke white guy trying to get my car back on the road. Lol. I thought this community would be the easiest rout as Im not familiar with ebay either and we all share some type of common interest if were on this page. Dont shy away from me guys just ask me for more pics if thats what you need, or whatever info. I dont go out on the big lakes as often as Im floating roe under a bobber in the creek or trying to find a couple browns on the fly. Its kind of a let down because I was excited to find this page and have caught all back lash. 


    You didn't misunderstand this site, you just started off on the wrong foot is all. If you can get more pictures, its always good to say that. What are the reels spooled with for line? If they happen to be full of copper line or braid that could help justify a higher than normal asking price. What length/power are the rods? What condition are the reels in cosmetically (usually a simple 1-10 scale is what ppl use). When you're paying big bucks for reels it will help if they are in good condition cosmetically as it shows you take good care of your gear. Also payment type (cash, check, venmo, paypal) and will you ship (is that cost included in your asking price?) or local pick up (if so where are you located or willing to meet)? It's easier to just post all that info in your ad because 99% of interested buyers are going to want to know all of the things I mentioned. It's unfortunate that ppl are initially skeptical and think potential scam, but it happens... alot and that's just the world we live in these days.

  9. 13 minutes ago, MidWestBest said:

    Ok . I just thought there were people who liked to fish on this page. Go find 600lc consistently for under 300 dollars thats the old model. 200 for the 700lc seems like a fair ask along with 200 for the 800 and 50 per rod. 800 thats my ASK an offer thats not cutting me in half and low balling can be respected and negotiated. Why would I want to join this community page if everyone here just wants to talk ****? I thought there were people here with common interest. I didnt know I had to be a member for 6 months for my post to be recognized. My reels are at my house you can see as many pics as you want if you’re interested. 


    I don't think anyone was talking **** to you. There's alot of scams out there and many of us have been here long enough to spot the warning signs of a potential scam as we have seen our fair share on this forum. A new account whose first post is a for sale ad asking premium prices with little information throws up some red flags. You can ask whatever prices you want that's fine, but understand people will be skeptical because of the issues I mentioned. You could have gone about things differently if you wanted to be part of the community (ie. introduce yourself, give more details on your items, shipping/pickup, etc). Goodluck with your sale. 

  10. 43 minutes ago, pole setter said:

    Thank you for sharing! I would think you would have to attach that rubber band close to the release as there would be too much stretch on the rubber band and the board would not run correctly JMO. 

    Yeah, I wasn't interested in testing out different rubber band sizes to figure out what would hold up and not break due to wind, waves, etc. It would have been nice to have a WS setup that could have potentially covered multiple different depths, but instead I opted to just go the route of dedicated setups with braid backing. I also run a Sam's Pro releases on the front of my inline boards now and there's no way, even with rubbers to attach to that release and have it function properly.

  11. On 2/5/2022 at 8:49 PM, pole setter said:

    For those who are running the 19th strand  as  backer how are you attaching it to in line planner boards?  I know how you attach it to the big Boards with rubber bands. 


    I asked this question to the guys at torpedo directly a few years ago and this was the response I got. I wasn't comfortable with the rubber band idea, so I never actually tried it. I just run braid backing on my WS setups and attach the boards to the braid.

    image.thumb.png.94babe864d31f89aca7dc1b95573cce1.png

  12. 4 minutes ago, VanderLaan said:

     

    You are most likely correct.  Thinking I should confirm that before I go too far down this road. Don't really trust BPS and I am the second owner. Would be good knowledge to have too.

    Unless the previous owner upgraded the steering, cable sounds right for a 2011 with an outboard. Quick look under the dash will confirm it. You would likely already know if it was hydraulic steering, its a decently expensive upgrade and would likely be a selling point of the boat the previous owner would have almost certainly mentioned.

  13. 20 minutes ago, VanderLaan said:

    I am not sure. Second owner of the boat. Paperwork/on-line info says "dual cable rack and pinion". What is the best, easiest way to confirm that determination? Boat is a 2011 Tracker Targa V-18 WT

    You just figured it out right there... you have full cable steering.

  14. Garmin makes an AP unit just for your kicker motor. Its called the reactor 40, I have the previous version called TR-1 and have no complaints. It was a very simple install, I did it myself in 2-3hrs. Works great and was relatively cheap (~$1200). The new reactor 40 is a full electric setup where the older TR-1 was hydraulic. The 40 can be connected to a GPS unit or be purchased with a standalone headunit. 

  15. 2 hours ago, Private said:

    Any recent knowledge of where to get these at a good price?

    Used to be Northwoods Outlet was about $80 cheaper than anyone else. But it looks like they don't carry the complete setup anymore, I only see the probes on their site. Might be worth a phone call just to be sure. Otherwise I'd say to watch Fishusa.com. They have daily sales and if you keep and eye out you can catch a sitewide 10% off or sometimes even better on a $250+ purchase. Other than that, pretty much everyone has them at the same price. Today is cyber Monday so it would be a good day to check around for a sale.

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