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Super Yooper

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Everything posted by Super Yooper

  1. I should have mentioned my filler tube and vent lines are on the front, port corner of the tank pointed towards the port gunwale and the fuel pickup is in the back starboard corner. Its been tough finding a tank that fits the opening I have between the stringers but also has the right configuration.
  2. Yes, I have the tank mounted under the center floor strip. Tank measures 72" long, 22" wide, and 7.5" deep. Tank runs from the back of the helm chairs to the beginning of the splash well. I may be able to patch it and then look for a replacement or have a custom tank made this fall if I can't find a replacement in short order this spring.
  3. I've got an older 220v islander and last year I smelled fuel when I pulled the mooring cover and after inspection found out that my filler neck and vent hose where shot. I replaced those and the smell went away. Well today we trailered 50 miles and topped off the fuel tank just before launching and when I pulled the cover the smell of fuel was heavy. When we got the boat back home I pulled the floor up and found a small pin hole in the top of the tank but the aluminum is in rough shape. I'm speculating that a new fuel tank is going to be in my near future but I can't find a replacement. I'm going to drain and pull the tank tomorrow to inspect it and get dimensions. Rough measurement of the top of the tank is 72-73" long and roughly 22" wide. Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to track down a tank or a good place to start looking? I'm sure I'm not the first person to have this issue but I'm sure not coming across much online. Thanks for the help.
  4. I've got an older Starcraft Islander that would on occasion get slipped for a month at a time. Previous owner who slipped the boat told me they had an issue with stray current eroding a rivet and paid big money for a patch. I don't think its always an issue but if you've got stray electricity running around the marina it could be an issue without precautions.
  5. I've got the same model just a few years older ('84) islander. You don't see many outboard islanders of that vintage. I inspect my transom annually or whenever I'm doing some work back there and its solid so far but I'll be following this post as I'm sure at some point I'll be doing this project. If you get a chance post some progress pictures. Good Luck.
  6. I've had 36" cannon tracks on a previous boat and now have 72" traxstech tracks. Both have been great. I have both single and dual axis cannon rod holders for divers. I don't think my girlfriend could get a diver rod from the holder without the ratcheting feature with a large king on the end of the line. I think as long as your diver rod holders ratchet you will be happy with them regardless of the brand.
  7. I'm not an expert on this by any means but when we catch some large smelt thru the ice I save a few for cutbait rigs. I've tried quite a few different ways and most seemed to work. I use 20 mule team borax and salt. I've cut the smelt how I want them and then covered them with borax, waited 15 minutes then flipped the bait over and covered the other side. I would then repeat the same procedure for salt then I take the smelt and shake off the excess and bag them and freeze them. I've also done a mix of borax and salt in a ziplock and thrown in the prepared smelt and let them sit in there from anywhere from an hour to a couple days. The ones that got left for a couple days turned pretty hard but still usable. You can check them periodically to get the texture you want. I also tried some of Pautzke fire brine and liked it. Really simple, submerged the smelt in the brine in a ziplock and left them overnight. Gave them good color and firmed them up. Hopefully some of this is of some help to you.
  8. We've run several 20, 25, and 30 hp suzukis for work for the last several years and they've been very good to us. Most of the outboards see 300-500 hrs each year. We follow the break in procedure and chance oils as the owners manual says too. Only issue we've had on a few of them was the steering tension adjustment on the tiller models broke while trailering the boat. Only issue we've had in a lot of hours.
  9. We've got one on the 175hp outboard on our islander. I can't tell you if it helps much since I've never had the boat on water without one but our boat pops up on plane fast and gives me lots of range (speed and boat orientation) using the trim. The boat will hold on plane down to roughly 13 mph. Down the road I'll probably add trim tabs but for what a hydrofoil costs I don't think you could go wrong.
  10. Yep! We'll be back down there over the fourth. The way it looks right now we are going to have to wait for lots of ice to melt before we get out there this year.
  11. Hello Everyone, Great site you guys have here with lots of info! A little bit about myself. I'm from the west end of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I primarily fish Lake Superior but also venture to Lake Michigan several times a year to chase silver fish. We have great laker fishing in Lake Superior with a few salmon, browns, and steelhead. I'm always looking to try new tactics and methods from other areas and that's what has brought me to the site. Thanks for all the great info.
  12. Here's how we have our islander setup. Transom board across the back that has a couple of eye bolts secured to cleats. Six foot tracks on each side. I had some aluminum pedestals made to fit in the tracks and mounted planer reels to them and added pulleys to some rail extensions off the front of the cabin to the give the mast lines a little more room for turning. Next I have some vertical triple trees (not pictured) then some big jon rod holders with track adapters and some cannon rod holders. I can have the tracks cleared and down rigger board off the boat in 10 minutes or less if needed.
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