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Vladislav's Achievements



  1. I am interested. Sent you a PM
  2. I have talked about this with several experienced anglers/captains on this - my understanding is that the main purpose of such setup with 19-strand backing is to run the rod as a chute rod, which makes a lot of sense, i.e. you can achieve variable depth with such a chute rod. You could use it as 100WS + 100 wire too to reach almost the same depth as 200 WS but in the context of the chute rod, anyone opting in for a setup like this has to take into account tangles that will inevitably happen and I have decided that my trolling-fishing life is exciting enough. I have experienced enough tangles to say "no" to a chute rod like this (may try it in the future) because there will always be be a crazy salmon that would spool you and would run one of your rigger or dipsy or even planer rods into such a chute rod, and you would have to spend time untangling the lines and potentially fixing the wire after a little while too. So, time and $$$. And therefore I had decided to opt out for a dedicated setups with braided backing and Sam's Pro releases. Basically the way RG does it - absolutely fantastic. Worth noting that I do however run a chute rod on Lake Erie all the time along with 2 or 4 dipsies and/or 2x rigger rods, the walleyes won't run as fast and no tangles because of walleyes.
  3. Yes, you let out all the sinking line and clip your planer board onto the backing. The one exception is a special setup with wire backing - let's say 100 weighted steel with 1000ft of wire backing and using this as a chute rod. You can let out as many ft of wire as you like since the resistance of the water allows the wire to keep diving and each out deeper. I don't use such setup but many do.
  4. Rods spacing on the gunnel - IMHNO I think that the rods should be spaced just enough so that if the inner rod has a fish and the dipsy goes off, it won't snap at the outer rod while bouncing after the dipsy release. So on the smaller boats like mine I have the outer (longer) rod flush and the inner (shorter) a little higher. The actual spacing, whether 12, 18 or 24 inch does not matter.
  5. I only ran 2x dipsies per side for 1 season but I learned a few things the hard way... Sigh. I have 10.5 and 8.5 ft wire dipsies and 10.5 and 9.5 braid dipsies for early in the season. In addition to the above, depending on where and the depth you are targeting, you need to watch the current, and the dipsies will tell you what it is. So when I am running 2x dipsies per side on Lake O, I deploy the outer dipsies first (size 1) on the settings 3-3.5. Then I look at the deployed dipsies and try to read the current and if one of the deployed dipsies is tilting too much towards the middle of the boat, I may choose not to deploy the 2nd dipsy but rather opt out for a sinking line on a planer; I am a little scared they will tangle (re: learning things the hard way) especially if you are running riggers as well or if the fish bites the inner dipsy or a rigger and the outer dipsies are right above it. This is not a big issue when we are fishing deep however. So if the deployed dipsies are far enough to my "not-very-experienced angler's satisfaction" to the respective sides of the boat, then I deploy the inner one (magnum) then on settings 2 or higher. The deeper we target and higher the setting. For example, for 100+ft deep I would put both dipsies on settings 3, outer wire 350-400ft out and inner wire 200-250 out. Make long turns, watch the dipsies, read the currents, and make adjustments accordingly. This is also true in very general context, not just for dipsies, i.e. the fishing situation evolves/changes and you need to adjust your spread accordingly.
  6. Yeah many of us would be lost without experienced anglers and charter captains and their advice. I'd be for sure . But there is also a practical experience - you need to get out and apply what you learn and build/develop your own habits etc... Most of my stuff was really "baked" in 2021, which is my 3rd season. It does take time... What many of us do is that if the bite is slow, and it happens, we just take a 10-15 mile ride to 350 fow depending on where we launch from and work deeper towards 425-450 fow (border with USA). Actually if you draw a line between Olcott and Toronto, we take a 20 min ride towards the border almost across this line. I generally fish southwestern shore Toronto to Niagara because I live ~1 hr drive SW of lake Ontario but at times we go further north shore or close to the BAR. However, you have to be ready for these days because the weather is very unpredictable and winds move things around. Everything can change overnight. So your only choice to catch fish may be blue zone on some days. The most important thing is to pick up a good weather. I had one trip in October where we trolled to the BAR and we had absolutely nothing for a few hours. Then we packed, went deep out parallel to the border towards 420 fow, changed spoons, flies, juggled rods etc... We got a 16lb rainbow on that day btw... What a monster! Yes, I run spoons and flies and meat at once. More meat than flies in the summer hot days however. Usually before I go out, I spend a little time in the evening researching the fishing reports and go over the water temperature map. So by the time I get behind the wheel at let's say at 3 am, I already know 1) Where I will launch from, 2) What rods go out first, i.e. what depth I think I will target and 3) What would be my initial presentation. I might just say "well if all the fishing reports are so bad, let's just go blue zone tomorrow". I mean, I go really crazy on this and I am going very detail the day before hence my fishing trips in 2021 have been really rewarding. Trolling speed-wise, it is true that some spoons perform better at certain speeds but this is something you would have to just "live with" if you have a multi-bait presentation. You cannot run too fast with meat. I tried and the meat strips go crazy around the line... So I go slow and I never had an issue with meat and spoons, i.e. had bites on both. I am targeting 2.0-2.2 MPH at the ball when I am running anything on hot summer days but at times I go also 1.5-1.8 MPH. If fish is not in the mood, you need to go slow. And there is this trick and everyone knows when you slow down big for 30-60 seconds and then bring the speed back, and you watch the rods. Hope this helps. Happy New Year! Vlad
  7. @Odie 1 If you are asking about July, then it is possible that on your end (we are north shore) the fish will already be deep due to the water being very warm. In 2021 we (north shore) had one day where a big rain dumped lots of warm water and the fish were like 120+ft down off Toronto shore. In days like these you may end up running 4x rods on 2x deep riggers and 2x magnum dipsies, I would run all of them meat rigs. Also, 10 colors leadcore or whatever long copper/weighted steel you want to run with a magnum spoon. You pay attention to what is biting and change your presentation accordingly. There is always a plan B - you can run to the blue zone (400 fow) and get fish over there 40-60ft down. The temperature over there is more or less stable and is not affected in such manner as the shorelines. Depending on the number of rods out (i.e. number of anglers) and the time of the day and where we are in the season, I usually start with roughly an equal mix of meat, flies and spoons. Early morning riggers and dipsies have roughly equally split flasher+meat, flasher+fly or spin doctor+fly or dodger+spoon combos. I also run at least 1 SWR. Any fly that is a glow with a mix of green/yellow colors and matching flasher/spin doctor would do just fine. I tie them myself with 40lb seaguar STS, 22-24 inches long for an 8-inch attractor. Later in the morning when more sinking lines could be running, they are all mostly spoons or may be 4-inch dodger with a small fly, and I keep the meat on the deeper lines and may be 1 fly throughout the morning. The colors are typically something that has glow and/or UV with green/yellow, black dots, ladder etc.
  8. Now you got our attention for the topic of the slide divers ... Still I will give it another season or two before trying it but that is a pretty good argument for those of us who are the weekend fishermen in a normal non-covid year . How do you go about fleas? 100lb braid?
  9. Hey Hounds, Here are my 2 cents from a newbie to a newbie... Although I am thinking of denouncing my newbie-ness I asked the same question about the curve in our fishing group on north shore and experienced fisher-dudes and charter captains said go 3:1 rule on dipsy size 1 and 2:1 rule on magnum size. When we were out with dipsies, I actually bothered to "guestimate" the angle of the wire at which is intersects the water, at which point this becomes a trigonometric problem finding a sine of the angle. So, according to my 3 buddies on the boat at that day, i.e. 3 more pairs of eyes, given the direction we were trolling, at the speed we were trolling, 12-inch flasher and a meat rig, I figured out we are looking at approximately 15 degrees angle. Its sine is 0.2588. Therefore, we were looking at roughly 4:1 for size 1 dipsy, but once we turned back, the angle was more like almost 20 degrees, at which point the sine of 20 degrees is 0.34; therefore, you need to "guestimate" that angle and do something in between 3:1 or 4:1. Now, you have to bear in mind that while many of these "guestimates" may be great, the depth you targer, the underwater currents, the type of baits, the trolling speed etc, will offset them depth by a few feet here and there. So for the upcoming 2022 year I got FishHawk TD (so far I had only X4) as I would be interested to see how deep the dipsy goes and the associated temperature. Furthermore, the wire goes nearly linearly through the water because of its low resistance and the more you get out, the diving curve will be linear-like. This is not the case with braid, let alone mono, which I am guessing you won't be using for the dipsy . There is a reason dipsies are sized to different depths, i.e. the more braid you get out, the dipsy will continue to dive but starting from certain point, they won't dive linearly but rather more horizontally. The bottom line is that you target a depth based on 1) A temperature and/or 2) The fish marked at some point on your fish finder. Let's say you want to get to 50ft down in 100fow. So you would roll out size 1 dipsies, one 150ft out and one 170ft out and give it let's say 20-30 min. If no bites, you can make adjustments as necessary, i.e. let more line out or change bait or trolling speed etc... The other topic about rigging is like this - if you are after browns with spoons, you would want to have the longest leader possible behind the dipsy (let's say 10-15ft of 20lb fluoro or mono) with one end connecting to the dipsy with ball-bearing of some kind, and another to the spoon with a quality snap of something like 30-40lb. Some would btw say that this is where the slide diver with longer lead would be beneficial (and they are right) but I did ok with 2-color line of 100ft weighted steel outside on inline planers. Late summer is a completely different game here on north shore where we go to 100ft and at one point 120ft down after a massive warm water dump by the rain... I ran wire for the first time this year and I had 2x dipsies size 1 at 400ft out and 2x dipsies size magnum 180-240 out. For these ones, I had snubbers (I ran the one used for downrigger weights by Amish Outfitters) from the dipsy followed by 6ft of 50lb fluorocarbon (which next year I might replace with 50lb mono as some say mono plays a part-time role as snubber with its stretch), and about 8-10ft meat rig. Now, I rig my sinking lines exactly as you had described - an spro power swivel on the business end and tie to it a leader 5-40ft of fluoro with a good quality snap. No need for swivel, an spro is good enough. I would not recommend doing this for stuff behind the dipsy however. Lastly, I would NOT recommend you tie anything directly because when dipsy trips, the line gets "stressed" and the knots are the weakest point in line and you will lose $$$ in tackle plus valuable time. Make a bunch of dedicated leaders and use them in a targeted fashion. I recommend you get several DEDICATED pool noodles for each of the following: - About 10 leaders for browns and Lake Erie walleyes: 10-15ft of 20-25 fluoro for spoons only - About 10 leaders for salmon, 6ft of 30-40lb fluoro or mono, I also use these between the dipsy and the flasher + meat rig, and also, I am using them for running spoons behind flasher or dodger on the rigger line - About 10 leaders of 10-15 ft of 40-50lb fluoro for running spoons for salmon behind a dipsy Each leader for the dipsy has nothing but a good quality snap since either the dipsy or the attractor come with ball bearing stuff on it. These pool noodles will last you for a season and you can always make a few more to replenish the ones that are deteriorating. That's pretty much it. Some of it was a little off-topic but I hope this was helpful. Now hurry up because you have about 2.5 months left to make these!
  10. I don't doubt they work. I am just supporting the point made earlier, i.e. for newbies this is something that may not have to necessarily be a must have toy. Even on the tough days, we managed to get by with an all-inline planers spread, and 3-color SWR. You just push them further away. Same for spring when the fish is shallow. Without a doubt, slide diver is a cool thing; I am however not convinced it is a must-have, even after watching several charter captains and experienced fishermen talking about them. More like a different gear option. I am planning to get it later at some point, when I will be rich enough to upgrade to a bigger boat where I could store all my fishing stuff
  11. I don't mean to start an argument but I agree with Mr 580 said. I watched several videos about the slide diver and they actually turned me off. Not because it does not work, I am sure it does, but because you have to store them on the line with the rod after learning to properly rig/use them. They are not plug-n-play. For 18ft aluminum boat with limited to none storage space, I just don't see it. I usually take something like 10-16 rods with me every trip depending on the time of the season. We had a pretty good season in 2021 for a newbie on just regular braid and wire dipsy, leadcore, weighted steel etc, and we did alright without any slide divers, ~5-6ft leader behind the dipsy and 8-10ft long meat rig behind a big flasher or 10ft leader and flasher/spin doctor + fly. I don't see any need so far in the slide diver - to me this is just another toy. Definitely a very magnificent toy but not necessary.
  12. Hey @Hounds 2021 was my 3rd trolling season, and this year I used the wire for the first time. I only have one complaint, it happened to me twice - one of the 19 strands snapped and created a little "bunch" on the line but we quickly cut it and reeled in the fish. In June, I had salmon spooling me approximately 800ft, I was starting to see the backing. There are probably quite a few cons running a mono... So say you want to run mono on the diver and get 100ft down. So in order for you to get as deep as the wire, you would need a huge reel, at least size 30 Penn or equivalent 700 Shimano to have that much mono. I would think you would not want to run less than 40lb. The mono is going to have lots of stretch and memory, I would also think the sinking curves for the mono are much different from the wire or brand as mono is more floating than these... And the curves will change as the mono stretches. Some bites that are too light won't trip the dipsy and probably God knows what else... Probably worth mentioning that big diameter mono must have a very good knot... For me, the routine is braid dipsies on Lake Erie all along and Lake Ontario spring and fall. Summer on Lake Ontario goes wire once the fleas start showing up. BTW we were cleaning the fleas off the lines still late Oct this year... Good luck
  13. Like I said earlier, arbor knot on the spool electrical tape, ~100 handle cranks of braid and Albright knot to the wire. I never heard about 19-strand wire being worse than 7-strand in terms of pain to put on or otherwise. As I understand it, is that the 7-strand wire is cheaper and it dives a little deeper as it is a little thinner but it is 30lb test, not as tolerant to kinks as the 19-strand one and if 1 strand brakes, I am pretty sure you would rather have 18 more strands than 6 more strands to back it up. Also not to open a can of worms or start an argument but I do notice that many experienced anglers and charter captains run 7-strand but one very nice gentleman who is a charter captain and tackle shop owner precisely for these reasons suggested that as a beginner, I would start with 19-strand 45 lb test wire that is more tolerant to kinks and so on... And perhaps later in in a few years I will be on 7-strand, you never know... So far I cannot complain on one advice that I regret following it. So I am just passing it on... Cheers
  14. Hey Odie, Here are my 2 cents since I'd undergone in 2021 the conversion from super-newbie to beginner-level professional You absolutely have to get a FishHawk if you don't have it yet - this would be the number #1 stuff you need on your boat. I wish I would have gotten it sooner but I was pretty overwhelmed when I started trolling so it took me a season to just get my hand around this whole stuff... Moving on... So first of all, I would not buy anything pre-spooled, I would do it all myself but I would seek an advice from your nearest tackle shop (where you will be buying all the stuff). Next, for your reference, 2021 was my 1st season on wire (Lake Ontario north shore), I had a salmon spooling me almost 500ft in addition to 300ft wire out. So that amounts to 800 ft that is clearly more than offered on the pre-spooled option. Therefore, with regards to the wire, get a 2 spools of 1000ft of 19-strand wire (I use from Torpedo), and put each onto the respective reel. On each reel, you would fit approximately 90-100 reel handle cranks of 50lb braid onto the Okuma size 30 reel covered by an electrical tape, then tie an Albright knot to the 1000ft wire spool and then reel all the 1000ft onto the reel under a tension. Practice wireline knot a few time it is very easy. Alternatively, you can reel 1000 ft on the 2nd spool first, then tie an Albright knot to the wire (cover the wire end of the knot with a very thin heat shrink), then set a drag so that the wire remains under tension, and then spool it onto the 1st spool. When you get on the lake, optionally hook a dipsy and let all wire out, then reel it back it. I did not do it, I used the 2-spool process but many recommend you do that. Many professionals use 7-strand wire but I decided to go 19-strand because as my local tackle shop recommended for a beginner to start with a little more user-friendly, it has higher lb-test, can survive light kinks and also I am folding the wire dipsy roller rods in 2 for transportation while leaving an arc in the wire (!!!). With regards to the rods, you need a dedicated wire dipsy rod. If you can afford a roller rods, get the ones with the AFTCO rollers. For the downrigger, anything goes, the classic pro GLT are great but... if you want the good stuff, I would suggest an Okuma White Diamond 8.6ft medium (I use the same one but medium-light for Erie). You feel the fish differently with these rods and the fight is more enjoyable. For your downrigger, you should get also a size 30 Okuma and spool it with 40 lb mono. The brand is not as important, I used Big Game, Triplefish, others use Ande etc. You can get by with size 20 for the spring and let's say 20-25lb mono but we usually do 40lb because 1) Salmons are big and flashers/meat are made with 40-50lb fluoro and there is enough force that pulls the main line and 2) Fleas are terrible. Well, this will get you started... Good luck from ex-newbie Vlad
  15. Good to know... I did not know that BWD1101 is a casting rod. Google said it is spinning so I went with the 1st link it found. In Canada, the light above-mentioned 8'3 and 9'0 rods are now with taxes amount to about $110CAD ($85USD)... Not too low price point for us. Wilderness are the cheapest one can go, $25-$30CAD, then Okuma Classic Pro GLT or Shimano TDR for $45-$50CAD.
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