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Everything posted by Shellback

  1. With the rising temps, I think you will be fine. Keep in mind, that it will take several days to set up properly.
  2. You won't have any problems! I'd clean the hull and board with alcohol before applying the sealant
  3. You should have no problem removing the old screws Where are you in S.E. PA?
  4. Yes, just clean off the old stuff with a razor blade. If there are rivet heads where you are mounting the board, drill a shallow relief hole so the board mounts flush. Same with the old ducer screws. Put them back in the hole with 5200 and drill a relief hole for the screw heads.
  5. Are you using it as a sealant, or an adhesive? I've always used 5200 as a sealant when mounting the boards, but never depended on it as an adhesive. I just put a bead around the perimeter of the board and a dab at each screw hole. Never had a problem.
  6. Looking at the picture, it looks like a very nice hull. That's more than cosmetic, it's through the gel coat and into the matting.. Matting will absorb water if the repair isn't done properly. After your temp repair, you should have it removed and a proper repair made. Sure hope you get paid by the person that hit you. I don't like to bust people's stone after an unfortunate accident that they own up to, but if someone runs, they need to be taught a lesson.
  7. If someone hit you, why aren't you seeking professional repair at a boatyard? The tab should be on the person that hit you. I wouldn't be doing a patch job myself. unless it's a beater boat.
  8. That's a 27 y/o boat. Regardless of whether wood is used in it's construction or not, get a survey done. I'd bet it has a wood transom and stringers though.
  9. When I lived upstate PA and fished NY exclusively, I always registered my boats in NY. The law does require you to register your boat in the state of it's primary use. It's not a big deal at all to register your boat in NY. You do need a few different types of ID. As far as taxes, there was a form an out of state resident would use to avoid taxes. as you already paid taxes in your home state. I live in S.E. PA, and as Delaware has no sales taxes. folk like to buy a boat there and register it there. Then they dock the boat in NJ or MD for the summer. The DNR likes to cruise the marinas looking for boats not registered in the state they are docked. The they access healthy fines to them. I'd advise you to check into registering your boat in NY. When I did 10 years ago, it was actually cheaper than PA.
  10. Sorry to hear about the truck. Hopefully you will get everything straighten out and be ready to go by spring.
  11. What's the latest FL? Can you put 1 good motor together, or are you looking for another boat. Lot of work and expense to come up empty handed. But sometimes you have to throw in the towel on that hole in the water you pour money into.
  12. Pretty sure 305 and 350 motors are V8's. Honestly, unless you have a damn good mechanic who will work for free, it's probably better for you to cut your losses and move on.
  13. Just patching the motor hasn't worked out very well for you so far. If you want something reliable, you need to fix it right. I'd bet if you looked around, you could find a decent used 4 banger for less than $500. Possibly a lot less if you wanted to deal with picking up a complete boat that someone would be happy to have gone from their property. Slap a used motor in it for now, and rebuild your present motor properly over time.
  14. They do sell XL shaft motors. Some refer to them as "sail" motors. They have a 25" shaft and are common on sailboats. Most are between 8 and 15 HP. I had a nice Yamaha 9.9 four stroke 25" motor that I used on a transom like yours. That said, I'll go with the others recommending an I pilot or Xi5 electric bowmount. That will let you troll any speed below 2 MPH. Over 2 MPH you can run your main motor and bowmount together. By doing that, you use the bowmount on a lower speed to take advantage of the auto pilot feature, and the main motor for the faster propulsion.
  15. Pitting on the cam surfaces doesn't sound good. Add in the engine knock and the motor must have had some serious lubrication problems. More than likely, the crankshaft surfaces are also damaged with the knock. Might better get a price on a reground crank and bearings, cam bearings, and a set of rings.Hopefully the cylinders and pistons are good. That 4 banger motor is about as simple as you can get. I think the OP got some bad advise and half a**ed repairs by his mechanic. If I pulled a cam out that was pitted, over and above the lobes being worn off, I would have had serious concerns on the rest of the motor.
  16. Good for you! Now get a timing light on it and set the timing properly. Hope everything works out for you after all the work you had done.
  17. Are you speaking about the pushrods for the valves? I've always adjusted them with the engine running. Back off the nut till they start clacking, then tighten till they stop and add a 1/2 turn or so. The pushrods should still rotate when adjusted properly.
  18. Yes the carb could be messed up. Did he have it off when he did the cam job? If it was upside down or sideways, it could have effected the float. I don't see a reason to have the carb off doing the cam though, and think it's unlikely to be your problem, but you can't rule it out. Personally if everything was right with the distributor timing and firing order, I'd start thinking about valve adjustment. Could some be set too tight? That will cause a problem for sure.
  19. In an earlier post, you listed the point gap at .022. Set the points at that, and don't worry about the dwell. That 4 cyl, point ignition, carb motor is about as basic as you can get. Engine TDC on compression stroke, rotor pointing at #1 wire, firing order correct, and it's getting gas, you should only have to adjust the distributor timing a little as it cranks, then it should run if the cam and lifters were installed properly. Once started and running, set the timing with a light.
  20. Your picture in post #34 shows the firing order is correct. But as rolmps stated, your #1 position has to relate to where the rotor is pointing when the engine is at top dead center on the compression stroke. If you bring the engine to TDC and the rotor is not pointing at #1, you can move #1 wire to the position the rotor is pointing, then plug in #3, #4, and #2 following #1 in a clockwise direction.
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