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Everything posted by Shellback

  1. I have a pair of the Big Birds somewhere? If you might be interested, let me know and I try and find them.
  2. I think most folks got tired of the bumps," Best deal on Ontario". Best deals don't linger 3 months. Good luck with your new rig.
  3. I have an Echomap 70DV, and just bought a 70S to use for GPS. I like 2 separate screens. The 70S can be bought for less than $500 now. Here's a couplescreen shots from my 70DV. The bridge one isn't that clear as I had been circling around to get the picture and I had the water all chopped up.
  4. If you want to drag your boat down to Montrose, PA. I've used Pennypacker Welding and he did an excellent job on an aluminum project. Pennypacker Welding 1146 Downer Hill Rd Montrose, PA (570) 278-6860
  5. Actually I'm looking for an Alaskan, preferably a 16 footer though. I got the cash alright, but if a seller doesn't put a price up, I won't even bother to call. Is his price so high he's embarrassed to post it? If he's serious about selling it, get some pictures and a price up.
  6. You could try running a concentrated mix of Sea Foam additive and gas through the motor. If you have a portable tank, mix 1 can of Sea Foam with 1 gallon of gas, then run that through the motor. You might get lucky.
  7. There are very small diameter jets in the 4 stroke carbs. Do to lack of use and stale fuel, chances are there could be some corrosion from ethanol fuel in the idle jets of the carbs. Base your offer on the boat based on having the carbs rebuilt. Don't count on a fuel treatment to cure the problems.
  8. Do a search on "the hulltruth". Less than stellar reviews for sure. blackbird did post a letter from a satisfied customer, Jim Rutter of PA. I do know the man, and he was completely satisfied with the motor he bought. Although he did need to bring it back for a repair. Another fellow I know wasn't happy at all. Seems the motor he bought was pieced together from different years. A nightmare to get parts for when needed.
  9. Could drill it out and install a larger thread diameter bolt? I guess it would also depend if there's enough meat on the stater flange to drill for a larger bolt. Maybe even get a machine shop to make a stepped stud. Larger diameter to go into the bell housing, and the smaller diameter for the starter.
  10. Check out this link. https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?type=avastbcl&hspart=avast&hsimp=yhs-001&p=kicker+motor+bracket+swim+platform
  11. Is the fitting threaded where it goes into the carb? If so, you might be able to change it out with brass components. In fact, I'd try and change out each one. Could be ethanol gas deteriorating the plastic.
  12. Not familiar with an Opti, but I did work on a 250 EFI Merc. Pretty simple procedure to pull the head. You would need to get the torque and tightening specification for installation. Any race or high performance shops nearby? They usually have top quality mechanics that may be able to install a helicoil without pulling the head.
  13. The SEI drives have been around awhile now. I haven't seen any negative posts about them. I paid about $1100 to have the upper section of my Mercruiser outdrive repaired about 12 years ago. I wouldn't have the mechanic waste his time on the old one, if I could buy new with a 3 year warranty for $1100.
  14. PS If it's a flex line, you can probably match it up at a local auto parts store. You will have to bleed the brakes afterwards. Try Googling "bleeding hydraulic surge brakes for a trailer". As there is a specific way it has to be done.
  15. If the master cylinder blew a seal, I kinda doubt you would hear a pop. Normally they just develop a leak that gets worse with time. There is probably a flex hose off the master cylinder, If it blew, I'd bet that's what might have caused a popping noise.
  16. Have you priced out a bracket and outboard yet? If buying new, I'd bet the conversion will cost you almost 2X what it would cost to replace the I/O engine and drive.
  17. So what kind of boat did you buy? Your signature shows a Crestliner with a 50HP Merc 2 stroke. That can't be the boat, it wouldn't have a bellows.
  18. Hopefully your transducers are dual frequencies. For instance 200/83 or 200/ 50 etc. If so, you can run them in different frequencies to eliminate interference.
  19. Are you sure he installed a marine shortblock? I followed a motor issue on another website where the fellow didn't have power at higher RPM's. Ran fine at lower RPM's. Turned out to be the camshaft. Auto or truck engine cams are designed to get power at lower RPM's. Whereas boats get power at higher RPM's. Scratch some paint off a freeze plug, if it's a marine engine, they should be brass. If it's steel, it's most likely not a marine engine.
  20. I'd start at the battery. Remove and clean the connections, no matter if they look good or not. Then go to the battery connections at the motor, probably at the starter solenoid. Next there are fuses under the cowl of the motor. Another check would be the harness connection to the dash, under the motor cowl.
  21. Take a good look at the Garmin Echomap series. I have an Echomap 50S, and liked it so much, I bought a 70DV. I now use the 50S for GPS and the 70DV strictly for sonar. The 70DV is a touch screen unit. Here's a screen shot.
  22. You should be able to take a screen shot with your 50DV. Put a mini SD card in a slot, select the option to take screen shots from the menu. Then you just hold down the Home button for about 5 seconds. Here's a sonar shot from my 70DV, my 50S works the same.
  23. Heading to VA for 9 days fishing in the morning. If you still have anything left, I'll catch up with you when I return. thanks, Ron
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