W.W.IV.

Don't sell them too short. My grandfather was a retired commercial fisherman on Green Bay and also smoked fish commercially as part of the business, and in his opinion, a 10-12 lb female carp was the best smoked fish out there. Males of any size weren't worth a crap in his opinion. He smoked whitefish, chubs (cisco) and several others, and he smoked a mean brown trout and salmon in the back yard long after he retired, so he's someone who's opinion on the matter I have a lot of respect for.

Tim

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I also have eaten smoked carp and I thought it was fine.  ( it taste like chicken). :lol:

I actually tapped on it with a hammer and it started working!!. Thanks for the reply!

Arrr yes, the all mity hammer, my kind a guy.

Rods are heavy action dipsey

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What length are the rods I need two around8ft.

Think about  how much more added weight you can put on the transon and how you entend to mount it.The four stroke is a lot heavier than the two stroke,I ran a 3.9 merc.on an older 16ft. that was great till it got rough, then it wasn't enought. Theres a ton of 5.5 to 7.5 two strokes out there on Cregs list that look good. I think a good running 6hp four stroke would be a nice quiet trolling setup.

Gambler.. Thanks! I really thought he was talking about east end.. Where do you think I should go on the East end?

I used to fish the east end out of the Little salmon river,head north out to around 100fow, lots of lakers.

Would you happen to have a pic?? Would like to see what they look like.. They sound interesting.

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The DEC stocked them years ago, they didn't reproduce and I don't think they stock them anymore.

no pic. and its been so long I couldn't even discribe one for you.

What is a "splake". Never heard of that species before.

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 cought one years ago on the Salmon  river,I think it was a cross between a brookie and a laker.

pikefreak and I are throwing a Sheepshead and dogfish BBQ this summer.

.......details to follow.

I'm in.

I've eaten heads along with smallmouth and couldn't tell the difference.

My self,I don't like tilapia,its to mushy and tastless,but then there are a ton of people out there that think its wonderfull.

Seventy per cent of engine wear is on start up where the fresh oil needs to get there fast. 10w30 has thinner oil that wears like 40 weight but gets to the cylinders faster than 40 weight. Unless you have a prelude system the multi weight oil is what you want.

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I ran 40weight in my 302s to keep the oil presure up at troling speed.(low rpms)never had a problem with them.

 

Good idea Sean.. Thanks

We had the intake lines rot out on a friends 20ft. Lund. We were on the lake fishing and the pump kept running and wasn't keeping up so we made a quick run and got it on the trailer and stoped on the ramp to let it drain. The water came out of the drain and the intake.The intake did not take the standard plug, its a biger opening so its not a quick fix but you can go to a plumbing supply and  get a  bigger one's to fit.

Check PMs.

Thanks Pap,I see you are useing 18# core, is 12# to light for eyes?  Mike.

 

I fish from Northeast harbor up to Dunkirk.  Last year it really seemed like the ticket was lead core.  I want to get into it.  A local Field and Stream by me has a package set up which includes an Okuma Classic Pro GLT 8ft 6in rod + Okuma level wind reel + 18lb lead core + 500ft of backing for $139.  I believe it has maybe 10-12 colors.  

 

Can someone school me on how to go about using it?  I understand that you get maybe 5ft of depth for every color let out, at trolling speed?  Do you just put them in your rod holders and let them go?  Can you run inline planer boards on them?  Does the lead core basically run right behind the boat?  

 

I typically use two Dipsy Diver rods, two down rigger rods, and two inline planer board rods.  And Im wondering where the hell I am going to squeeze two lead core rods into the spread.  THanks for any advice.

 

Doug

Pittsburgh, PA

 

 Doug give me a call I can answer any questions you may have. I am out of sunset bay just east of Dunkirk and primarly fish lead core. I can also set ypu up with rods and reels for a little cheaper. 716-796-5372 thanks Jim

 

Jim. I'm thinking about trying Erie this season for Eyes, do you think I could use that 832 core in 12lb out there. I've got two #30 reel that I'd like to use for a 5 and 7 core. Thanks  Mike.

The ear muffs are all i have used. They work fine. One thing,we found the hard way, your lower unit(impeller) may act fine in the driveway. Hose sends water at pressure that isnt there in the water. Its all pump when you are in the water. That set us back 12 hours one spring. It does let you run the motor.

You can't use earmuffs on a inboard.I think someone is mixing up inboards with IOs, .

Dylan did you hit the spot I was talking about..... Dale

And put a tape measure on that fish so we can see how long it is...

Looks like a size 14 perch to me, maybe close to 15. nice perch.

Bondouley, If they are not line shy, why do you a leader or are you useing a swivel between them to stop line twist?

Hi guys, I don't fish for lakers but I get down 30-40fow for perch and I use braid but I'm in my shanty with the heater on so when it gets above freezing in side the shanty a 1/8oz gig works well getting down to the bottom.Those 1oz laker jigs will hit bottom in a heart beat.I'm useing power Pro. 10# test on my jiging rods with flroCorbon leaders. And you guys out there sitting on buckets.God Bless You, I can;t take that cold anymore, my hand freeze to fast. Good catching and be safe.

x2

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OOPS      Busted.

Sorry the picture didn't come up the first time.

I got a nice brown out of Oneida last week 1-21-15. I was trolling a presure crack a 1.2 with a  HaHaHa. I got it giging a moussie gig and a minnow head in 25ft.fow.

I got a nice brown out of Oneida last week 1-25-15. I was trolling a presure crack a 1.2 with a  HaHaHa. I got it giging a moussie gig and a minnow head in 25ft.fow.

Thanks for the info guys. I've read that keenserts are slightly better than helicoils. Any thoughts? Also, is it possible to thread them deep enough that the plug and gasket still fit flush against the sealing surface? Will I have to flush the lower unit to get shavings out? Splitting the case probably isn't an option. Since the threads in the lower unit go much deeper than the length of the plug I only lost the last two or three threads. Could I just thread in a keen sert using the threads that are still there and then put the plug in? Would that be strong enough to hold?

Also, I don't know any machinists so if anybody knows any in the Corning area that would also be appreciated.

I don't know anything about keenserts but the coil have to be drilled a taped. If you could screw a keensert into the existing thread you will end up with a smaller diamiter opening. I think you meant to say the first to threads are gone. You can buy different lenght coils, you will still be able to seat the plug as intended. You don't have to be a tool and die man to do the job. make sure you drill straight and the tap will follow the hole. The old shop vac should suck out the chips.  You still should flush out the oil and start out fresh.

I'd go with Fish Hunter and the Heli-Coil first, it will come with the right size tap. You might have to drill out the hole so you don't have to force the tap and maybe brake it. there's a tang on the inside of the coil used to screw it in and then you brake it off. You don't want the tang floting around inside the houseing. You will most likely have to pull the lower unit off or if the tang falls into the houseing you might be able to flush it out by draining the oil after the coil is installed. Good luck.

I have a 115 mercury 2-stroke outboard that has a stripped vent hole in the lower unit so the plug won't tighten. A marina told me they wouldn't touch it because it wouldn't be factory spec and if the repair didn't work they could be on the hook for a new lower unit. Boat is located in Corning so looking for somewhere reasonably close to do the repair. This is an older motor so buying a new case is out. These are the three options I think would work.

Option 1: have the hole welded and re-tapped for the plug
Option 2: tap to a bigger plug if possible
Option 3: have the plug welded in and forget about it. (This outboard has two holes on top, a vent and a level check) the stripped one is the vent and only slightly higher than the level check plug so would it really matter if I sealed it?

If any of those are feasible I would love to know what the best option is. I also have no idea where to get the repair done. Marina? Machine shop?

Does anyone know how manny cars and trucks out there still need 93 octain to make them run well, say from 1990 to now?  I don't think the stations sell enough 93 to make it worth haveing.

Can the stations get away with sliping us 87 or 91 non E at 93 prices?

Wow, I just look up and I see I'm way off topic, sorry.

Back to the topic, I run 87E in my 1989 out board with a stablizer, so far so good.