Shakemsam

Looking for #5 Chinook Divers

1 hour ago, LongLine said:

That looks more like something was not properly grounded.  EVERY electronic device must be grounded to the battery,  NOT the boat, especially on an aluminum boat and the motor must be touching the water when the boat is in the water.  I found out years ago that radios, fishfinders, etc still draw miniscule electricity even when they are turned off at the unit in order to preserve their memory,  They also need to be mounted to the boat with an insulator between them and the boat. (i.e. rubber pad, gromets, etc)   That's why isolation switches are so important.  Batteries must be in a battery container with a lid and never touching an aluminum boat hull!  Stray currents are death to an aluminum boat.

 

You can check for stray currents simply by having the boat on a trailer then simply touch a voltmeter to a bare spot on the hull and a metal fence post (or metal stake driven into the ground).   

 

Irg - You gotta get that boat up on land & up off the trailer.   Then use the food-colored water.  

Having it slipped next to another boat running shore power can cause this as well.

4 hours ago, lrg355 said:

Pic of bilge discharge and fishbox drain

That fishbox drain just looks way too low to me. I can't see how that does not take in all kinds of water. 

How do the wells fill? From the top or bottom?

Maybe a hairline crack in your drain tube or the fitting?

Ok..cool. If the drains are on the wall of the well, I don't see how they would completely drain. Maybe you're taking water in from splash, especially if you have riders in the bow.

Maybe a pin hole in one of the wells?

I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?

You can find the directions on the Depthraider web site. Basically what you show in the pic with the clincher  but the last 2 inches is stripped to the wire connector that attaches to the bolt. Then wrapped in rubber tape.

I'm not sure but I believe the water is causing a connection issue with the separate wire. Based on your pics, you should be fine. I can tell you that the antenna spring likes to chew up coated cable. Especially if you are using auto stop beads.

PM sent

 I painted my 88 24' Sabre. Piece of cake and much cheaper.

Also, the wraps don't look good on lap sided hulls and don't even think about dock rash!

Can the OP post some pics of the exterior transom?

My GLS has it's intake and drain in the transom. Both are plugged for the same reason as yours.

If you are able to take the frame apart, you can do it yourself. Lots of help on Youtube.

Some time back...I found a kit on Amazon with multiple sizes. I am sure there will be the size you need in that kit. I replaced 2 tips on my dipsy rods a couple years ago.

$30 ea $50 pair

(1) 8# and (1) 10# with cradles.

Cradles set up to slide into tracks.

$35ea or 60 for both

PM sent

34 minutes ago, just me said:

without hrs. hard sell

Not really...Hrs can contribute to price but certainly isn't the biggest factor in the ability to sell the motor. A test run, compression test, and maintenance records...in that order!

Good luck to the seller!

Hours can be determined easy enough if you have the plug and software or by nema 2000. That doesn't mean the seller has the ability.

nope. Buy a sheet at HD and make your own. Videos on YouTube.

Left  Ibay and headed east. Trolled just past of Bear Creek 10-40 ft deep. Through every stick I have at em....nada. Trolled west to home port 70-130ft. Riggers and Dipsy's and weighted boards. Same result. 

Left Ibay today at 6 and trolled west inside 10-40ft all the way to Long Pond and then worked our way out to 150 continuing west. Marked Lakers on bottom at 130ft. About 3 mi west of Braddocks, made a swing back. Called it a day just east of Braddocks and motored home. Never moved a rod except to change baits. Water is COLD! Never found a temp above 41 except for inside of 15ft. Long day! 

Tomorrow...taking a hard right and see what happens.

Try it on a different fuel supply before you do anything else. If nothing changes, clean the carb.

Great Lakes Skipper has some stuff. Other than that...keep checking the forum here. I was lucky enough to get brand new factory side and aft curtains here, for my Sea Nymph. Then there's CL and Ebay.

14 hours ago, Seabass73 said:

Looking to see if any others have boat control issues when using trolling bags.  My set up is a 19 foot deep V aluminum with a 4.3 IO.  My bags are 48 inch and this able to get me down to 1.7 mph for walleye.  I've been trying different spots on the boat to anchor the bags and I've had no luck.  As soon as I let the wheel go I'm doing a crazy Ivan.  I have a kicker and the boat tracks a lot better when using it I just don't have remote controls for it.  Maybe I'm fighting a losing battle or maybe someone  has some experience on a similar set up.  Pretty much I like bags for when I'm solo.

Seabass73

Best luck I have had is through the bow eye. Equal lengths past midway on my 19'.